Suzuki 2 Strokes

Dollydog suggested making a new topic.
Since DD has made a few gaskets from copper sheet we thought it a good idea to add the info to a dedicated topic.
"what do i use to cut the edges? i presume you mean round the stud holes etc? SCISSORS decent scissors will easily cut
thin copper, where tin snips tend to curl it up. i ALWAYS cut the centre hole first, followed be the stud holes, followed by the final shaping
cheers, dd."
DD uses 0.3mm or 0.5mm copper sheet and cuts the centre holes for head gaskets using an adjustable tank cutter like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Priory-201-C- ... 2682744220
and says that "before you start you must screw the corners of the plate securely to a block of wood and make sure it's dead flat"
I am guessing a pillar drill very gently applied to the job would be best at cutting accurately.

Feel free to chime in DD if you have any revisions or further advice.

I tried a copper head gasket on my Buffalo, and it quickly developed a water leak. I went back to the stock one. For anything else, I'm sure copper is the way to go.



Lane

hi lane, aren't kettle head gaskets composite? i've used mostly 0.3mm copper on alsorts of gt's with no problems. they are head and shoulders better than those pattern aluminium ones i used to buy,[vesrah are the worst of the lot] and they last virtually forever. put them on the gas ring til cherry red and drop them in some cold water. they come out like putty i'll try and put some photo's up when i get chance. i needed to lower the compression on my gt285 and my big bang, so i used 0.5mm and after that they were no trouble.
cheers, dd.

are you sitting comfortably? then i'll begin
the start: note, the right edge was cut with tinsnips, the others with scissors - much neater.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13132" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
trepanner at the ready:


middle cut out:


done - and cut with scissors plus an old one and a pattern. 20 minutes work!


cheers, dd.

Lovely. thanks DD

there was another piccy between 3 and 4, but my mrs disturbed me and i couldn't remember if i'd photo'ed it. obviously not but it was only some 12mm holes being bored
the insulators between the carbs and barrels are the best. 10mm thick tufnol and a lot of elbow grease
cheers, dd.

dollydog wrote:there was another piccy.... it was only some 12mm holes being bored

Your drill the holes? I thought you would punch them.

if i had a punch i probably would do. the holes need to be done very carefully or they rip and make a right mess.
best way to do them is with a piece of plate steel with a 12mm hole in it, clamped over the hole you're going to drill,
[2 pairs of mole grips are fine] that way they can't rip and are much neater
0.5mm copper is far less prone to ripping than the 0.3mm and i just centre drill them, then 12mm drill, then counter sink bit
[which is about 12.2mm ]. edges are fine. go over it with a sanding block and take all the sharp edges off
and you're done. looks very professional, and best of all, doesn't leak
cheers, dd.

Interesting. I have some punches I usually use for making gaskets so usually use them. Quite cheap and reliable but not sure if they will work well with copper or not. I may try both methods and see which is easier.

yes, i've got a full set of hollow gasket punches, i never thought of using them
dead handy when making clutch side gaskets, as long as you punch the holes out BEFORE you
cut the outline out, otherwise they tear across from the hole to the edge, which is annoying
i always start with a square, punch the small holes, then cut the middle out, then the outline
i thought you meant the machine punches for steel etc
cheers, dd.
ps, yes, i do like smilies

No I don't have any punches for steel. I'm not very good at metalwork and I don't seem to have much of a knack for welding. Maybe if i did a lot of it I would get better, but I think it is because I have no artistic flair.