Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hi All
I have more or less got the old 380 running again after at least a year of sitting still, carb problems etc

Thing is, the clutch is weird. I can't get it into neutral while standing still and running. And i have noticed that the clutch cable adjustment on the lever is maxed out (as is the second one on the casing).

Is it possible that i have left a tiny spacer or washer out when i did the rebuild?

Just doesn't make sense as the clutch cable is a new, aftermarket one.

Any thoughts how i can improve the clutch operation?

thanks


MJ in Beirut

Hi MJ
There are many things that can cause your problem. Firstly, its a bit late now but i always buy genuine Suzuki cables as pattern ones can be different lengths. Secondly are you sure you have all the actuating rods in place? (See photo)Thirdly check the outer fins on the clutch basket. They sometimes wear ridges which make it hard to get neutral. They can be gently sanded to help. Fourthly make sure you have the right oil in the right amount.

GTandcbr wrote:Hi MJ
There are many things that can cause your problem. Firstly, its a bit late now but i always buy genuine Suzuki cables as pattern ones can be different lengths. Secondly are you sure you have all the actuating rods in place? (See photo)Thirdly check the outer fins on the clutch basket. They sometimes wear ridges which make it hard to get neutral. They can be gently sanded to help. Fourthly make sure you have the right oil in the right amount.

What is the right oil? (Stand well back.)

Different ideas on that one....IMHO these bikes were made in an era without all these oils with fancy names. Ordinary 20/50 will do the job However you can buy 2 stroke specific gearbox or transmission oil designed especially for the job.Its just a question of choice.
https://www.google.fr/search?q=castrol+ ... q-v2ioQTzM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;:

GTandcbr wrote:Different ideas on that one....IMHO these bikes were made in an era without all these oils with fancy names. Ordinary 20/50 will do the job However you can buy 2 stroke specific gearbox or transmission oil designed especially for the job.Its just a question of choice.
https://www.google.fr/search?q=castrol+ ... q-v2ioQTzM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;:

I've got regular 90 gearbox oil in there. DO you think that is a contributing factor to the difficulty in getting into neutral?
However, i should say that the previous time i started the bike up after a long period of sitting, the same happened with the clutch and after a while, the neutral problem just went away. Is it not also a problem when you leave it standing?

I'm going to have a look at the clutch mechanism on the left side and maye take it out and reset it. Perhaps it is not set in correctly

thanks
MJ

Just another thing to check,when adjusting the worm screw make sure it is all the way in to the actuator bar before you back it out half a turn. Sometimes a little resistance because of thread damage or like makes you think its all the way in.
Personally i would put normal engine oil in there in case your 90 is causing the problem.

The 90 weight oil is not the problem. That's what I run in all my two-strokes. It sounds like an adjustment issue.



Lane

Gearbox oil & motor oil are on a different viscosity scale. A forum member posted a scale conversion chart a while back. 90 gearbox oil is in the neighborhood of 50 motor oil. (Don’t remember the exact conversion.)

I wouldn’t use 90 gearbox oil, but you & rngdng are in an area that is typically a good bit hotter than where I’m at.

Hey just wondering if there was a verdict on what was causing the issue. I've had the same issue intermittent with my t500. I filed the tangs. And the worm drive seemed to be in need of adjustment every few weeks. And I felt like It getting to much, like I might run out of adjustment. And its As if the clutch wasn't compressing enough enough to its job. The wear on the basket wasn't much. But I smoothed it out, the springs were just under wear limit. 2 of the steel plates were as well. So I ordered new parts. Anything else I should check? I'm currently doing a rebuild so now's the time!!

It's worth checking the 2 clutch push rods for undue wear while the engine is apart.

Cheers Geoff

what should i be looking for on them? the tip on one end of the push rod is rounded... is there somewhere that may have the specs/length listed?

PippiFyrecracker wrote:what should i be looking for on them? the tip on one end of the push rod is rounded... is there somewhere that may have the specs/length listed?

Each rod should have a factory rounded end. You do have two push rods on your '75, correct? Anyway, I suppose you could measure them and see if each one is 138.5 mm or if two different lengths....the overall length adds up to 277mm....like so.....



A fellow was having a similar problem a good while back on another forum and he happened to give the measurements of his two rods and I pointed out that one of rods was wrong....installed by a previous owner. He bought another correct length rod.....problem solved. I don't think it was a T500 but same difference.


EDIT: Also, be sure and not TIGHTEN the clutch spring bolts.....only snug them up after screwing them in even increments in a criss-cross pattern like you would for the lug nuts on a car wheel. The bolts will hold their own because they are under tension.

....or not