Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hi all,
I have just ordered a new set of air filter foam elements for my 1976 GT380 and was wondering if I need to do anything to them before fitting. I think I've read somewhere that I need to soak them in oil first.
I only ask as the ones that are in the bike are dry and the engine still runs rich according to the colour of the plugs, no matter what I do I can't lean it out. If I unscrew the pilot air screw more than 2 full turns out I loose the tick over and it's difficult to start again. Surely adding oil to the filters will reduce the air flow even more and make it even richer.
By the way I running on Higgspeed chambers.
Regards,
Glyn.

Hi oil is normally added to the air filter foam. Be careful too much will restrict the air too much. I think if you are turning your airscrews over 2 turns out you need to perhaps go to smaller pilot jets. The trouble with chambers some say you can run carbs stock. Some say re-jet. I think you have to experiment. Have a look here
http://3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/kawcarb/Part2.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It might also be worth checking that the choke plungers are free and returning as they should if they are sticking even slightly you will have trouble making it lean

Cheers GTandcbr,
I'm currently cleaning and rebuilding a spare set of carbs, so I'll refit a smaller set of pilot jets and give them a try.
Do you think I'm doing any harm to the engine running it rich. The bike accelerates strong all the way up to 8,500 revs and will cruise at 70mph all day and if I check the plugs they are a blackish colour but dry. I've put over 2,000 miles on the clock since a top end rebuild and the only slight problem is an erratic idle speed. (idles between 1,100revs to 1,500revs ). I've fitted new carb boots as the old ones had turned to goo, also new intake rubbers as they had split and new O rings in the carb tops. I cant find any air leaks so I suppose I may have to live with it.
Many Regards,
Glyn.

You wont do any damage running rich but running lean is a different matter so when you fit smaller pilots keep checking your plugs.It is possible the bike is running rich at higher throttle opening which means the main jets and jet needle might need adjusting down but i would go with the pilots first and see if that cures it. Erratic idling is very common, but make sure your pilot jets,passage and bypass are all clear and clean.

Cheers again GTandcbr,
I've read a lot on the forum about these pilot jets and passages being blocked so I decided to invest in a Ultrasonic cleaning bath and I must say I was surprised at how clean inside and out it gets even the most dirtiest carbs. I haven't poked or prodded to much in the tiny passageways, but I'm sure they are clear.
Just ordered a set of genuine Mikuni 22.5 pilot jets to replace the 25's that are standard on the M model only ( according to the Haynes manual ). I don't know why but that's what it says in the specification section under carburettor settings.
Thanks again for the info.
Regards,
Glyn.

Why do you think pilots are too rich on the little 380. I don’t think you running and pilots too long unless riding 10 - 15 mph in flat parking lot. What is you MPG when taking an easy – normal cruise 40 -55 mph? This is a good test to see if too rich. If everything is stock, Mikuni parts, and float heights correct, I am guessing from experience your needle jets are eroded inside the barrel where it meter with jet needle. And, It may run less then ideal making you wanting to give a tad more throttle to clean up the way it feels. Just a guess.

Too rich every a problem? If you are way over rich on oil injection only, and Piston/Skirt clearance close to new side of factory, spec the intake side of skirts (or exhaust to an extent) may get fuel washed and scuff due to lack of oil. But very rich and plugs may foul every now then (great clue you are too rich). Some times it wise to add a little oil to fuel if you are starting really high on jetting (lean phobia) trying to tune a intake setup without a known close starting point on jetting.

Update:

Week battery can make low rpms run rough / rich feeling -looking.
Slide are not sync (don't start opening same time) affect low end.
I again have gain great appreciation for tuning Idle speed per Suz method "running a cylinder or what have it at a time with end result to ensure all carbs contributing equally to idle/low speed running. Feels so much nicer driving bike at small throttle once this is done
Also you could run a step hot hotter on plugs to see if that make it feel cleanup .

Good luck