Stuck Carb Slide

[mike1161]

For the carb slides sticking, I had pretty much the same problem when I re-assembled my T350. I did the same things that Vintageman did, and haven't had any problems since. I sanded the insides of the carb bodies and the slides a little bit with 600 grit wet/dry & light oil, and then just had to be real careful about torquing the bolts when re-installing, tightening a tiny bit at a time until the slide just started sticking, then backed the bolt off just a bit.

[rocc99]

I sanded the insides of the carb bodies and the slides a little bit with 600 grit wet/dry & light oil

Just got the crank back a few days ago...going to reassemble and give the slide a little more love this week.

I have a twin crank I want to do too. Let me know how it works for you.

Regarding the crank, so far so good. It looks fantastic, everything was polished and greased nicely. It was also nice that they had the inner seals in stock at their shop, though I did I have to order all the main bearings and have them shipped to Bill. They turned the whole thing around in just a few days and charged $170 including the seals. IMO a pretty good deal and it seems like they did a great job.

[rocc99]

So, after some more sanding, the slide was running better but still hanging up just slightly. We decided to take a risk and try doing a "carb squeeze" with a vice/channel locks. After a few slight (and carefully placed) squeezes we got the body back into round and the slide is moving in there perfectly. Took it for a test ride and everything seems to be working great!

The inner seal replacement on the crank resolved an issue we were having with one side smoking more than the other, and the bike seems to be running much better now - no more idle issues...really glad we went ahead and had Bill Bune take care of the crank.

The only other immediate thing I'd like to take care of is wiring a kill switch. Even though the carbs seems to be working great now, I'd like to have an easily accessible kill just in case something was to hang up down the road...anyone have any advice on the simplest way to wire?

And thanks again for all the advice! Looking forward to getting back on the road!

[Vintageman]

"Carb Squeeze" So cool... so brave, so clever

I suppose bill gave you back that inner seal? Tell me, the lip really did not look that bad did it. If true it is what I have seen on that design. The inner seal although has a lip has no spring to help seal. Also small diameter, Also the crankcase oil is slapped in there hard. Also a little gear oil can cause a lot of smoke.

But if it was not wasted then I am just stating a lot of smack for no reason.

What is wrong with kill switch/wiring that you can't fix

[rocc99]

He didn't return the old seal, at least my mechanic didn't show me it when I stopped in to see the returned crank. As far as the condition before it left, it looked as though it spun and was starting to disintegrate...I don't have pictures, but it was obvious that they would need replaced.

Regarding the kill switch, my t350 did not come with a kill switch stock. From my research it seems like I'll need to wire something up to connect the two coils... Just wondering if anyone had a simple way to achieve this based on the config of the stock wiring harness.

[Vintageman]

I have had the inner seal look to my old eyes OK but still smoked heavy

Yes I forgot the t350 no kill switch like my Yam R5.

Search wiring diagrams T350 versus early GT250 (with kill switch) and compare

http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_G ... index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Di ... T-250A.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
looks like kill switch opens positive source to coils. So switch must be normally closed to run

Dirt Bikes have switches the add to ground out point side of coil. So hear normally open until switch pressed Some are one wire and rely on handle bar for ground? T350 bars rubber mounted so no ground