I flushed the lines on the spare octopus and no oil only drains out of 2 lines. The one on the bike is leaking through two lines. I filled the lines and took a virtual smoke break and came back and two lines were almost empty. I could actually see the oil draining slowly away.
The third set is an old broken one with a missing leg and of course that one seems to hold oil - or maybe it's just blocked. I'll check all three in the morning to see if there's any oil in any lines.
I just bought another one off ebay but I need two good ones and so far I don't have one. Anyone selling one perchance?
I have a major restoration project, lol ! The only thing on this bike worth salvaging. Is the motor, even though it needs a thousand things done to it. The seat, gauges and tank. The tank needs major work. Everything else is pretty much junk. I figure by the time I'm done in a couple years. It probably will have cost me 5-6k over all. Over the next couple years, I'm gonna be asking a million questions on here, lol !
I managed to pull two banjo connections off a spare broken set this evening and one was perfect bu the other had the ball rammed half way down the spring, so the spring was about 50% shorter than stock and no amount of cleaning or flushing would have fixed it.
It has been mentioned before but NEVER use compressed air to blow through the oil lines if you ever plan on using them. I have two leaky sets and one with broken arms to work out a fix for.
The smoking has ceased. The previous owner had premixed a 50:1 mix in the fuel tank. He was also using 10W30 motor oil in the oil tank. I emptied all those fluids and refilled with proper ones. Having done that and changing the plugs. It's hardly smoking at all now. But, the bike I feel is down on power at low to mid rpm ranges. I know 2 strokes have little power down there. But, it doesn't seem to run half as good as my 550. This bike was neglected in a major way. It's amazing it runs at all. Looks like the plugs hadn't been changed since 1979, lol ! The biggest running problem is what I think is a vacuum leak. From a combination of the boots and a neglected air box. Who knows what the carbs are gonna look like, considering the tank has a good bit of rust and no in-line fuel filter. But, surprisingly it runs pretty good at close to 6k rpms.
If you take the tank to a mom and pop radiator shop, pay the bucks they want to hot tank it for you. All the accumulated crud and rust will vanish. Problem is, most of the paint will vanish as well. I had one done that way and the results were amazing. Well worth the $20 the old man charged me. The paint loss didn't matter to me as a paint job was in its future anyway.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Coyote wrote:If you take the tank to a mom and pop radiator shop, pay the bucks they want to hot tank it for you. All the accumulated crud and rust will vanish. Problem is, most of the paint will vanish as well. I had one done that way and the results were amazing. Well worth the $20 the old man charged me. The paint loss didn't matter to me as a paint job was in its future anyway.
I'm scheduled to do just that tomorrow morning. A rad shop is charging me $65 dollars. Which is a fair price to me, to have it done right. Just like you, I'm following that up with paint. I'm still debating a burnt orange metallic or canary yellow metallic. I'd like a burnt orange to somewhat mimic an oem 76 paint of orange flake ( I know orange flake is actually close to red ) to maybe increase resale value. But, the more I think of canary yellow. I think it would be beautiful on a GT. Especially, because I've never seen one. But, afraid that will negatively effect resale if I ever decide to do so.