Archived Posts
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Knock under load
Hi all, I have put almost 1500 miles on the 71 so far but I have started to hear a knock under load. Its much slower then the engine rpm so I dont think its coming from there. I believe its coming from the tranny. Thought I would ask before ripping into it. Lots of knowledge hear. Thanks Tom W.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Can you use one from a different bike? Something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Ac ... .m14.l1318
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Ac ... .m14.l1318
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Hmmm...TitanRider wrote:Can you use one from a different bike? Something like this:
I could if the bore is the right size to keep the ratios the same.
The RZ is a twin disc setup - two single piston calipers.
Nice find, thanks for the info.
If this dude has a M/C in his range which matches the original, it could be a goer.
I'll keep investigating
Cheers
Paul
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
http://www.3cyl.com/~mraxl/gt/manuals/gt750man/sr86.htm
10 v is low. the link will guide you piece by piece. you won't have to remove the rotor to test it, but you will have to isolate the slip rings from the brushes. slip some cardboard between the brushes and slip rings. also while the cardboard is in there check for continuity of the green wire from connector to brush and on the other brush to ground.
10 v is low. the link will guide you piece by piece. you won't have to remove the rotor to test it, but you will have to isolate the slip rings from the brushes. slip some cardboard between the brushes and slip rings. also while the cardboard is in there check for continuity of the green wire from connector to brush and on the other brush to ground.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Right here...Suzsmokeyallan wrote:Paul theres this M/C photo you were going to send me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


As you can see it's pretty deteriorated.
There isn't any fluid leaking at the moment (it pools around the bottom of the sight glass and drips onto the ground), but it's noticeable when I come back from a ride.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Paul
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
OK - thanks very much for the link; much more comprehensive than my manual (I forgot that was there to be honest.) Are all these components interchangeable (380, 550, 750)? My local small-engine guy says he has an old GT380 junk motor lying around - I might be able to scavage some parts if they're the same.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
my T500 is charging now heres.......
what it was doing or not doing etc........
this is what the repair guy put on my receipt.
wiring fault on charge circuit,
wire to dc regulator incorrect,
bridge from supply to rectifier as per drawing,
old wire blanked,
charge rate 11.7 to 12 volts,
rectifier controls @ 12 volts.
the red and green wire, only one went to the regulator but not to rectifier
as it should be. that's what he means by bridging the wire.
the wire that was connect to the rectifier wasn't doing any thing,
he blanked that one off.
its hard to believe that a silly little thing like that has given me some grief.
ah well all is ok now.
while it was in the repair shop it had alot of interest with customers..
the guy said if I bring some photos and details he'll stick it up on the board. he said if he knew I was going to sell it ,he would have told the interested customers... anyway we'll see what will happen.
this is what the repair guy put on my receipt.
wiring fault on charge circuit,
wire to dc regulator incorrect,
bridge from supply to rectifier as per drawing,
old wire blanked,
charge rate 11.7 to 12 volts,
rectifier controls @ 12 volts.
the red and green wire, only one went to the regulator but not to rectifier
as it should be. that's what he means by bridging the wire.
the wire that was connect to the rectifier wasn't doing any thing,
he blanked that one off.
its hard to believe that a silly little thing like that has given me some grief.
ah well all is ok now.
while it was in the repair shop it had alot of interest with customers..
the guy said if I bring some photos and details he'll stick it up on the board. he said if he knew I was going to sell it ,he would have told the interested customers... anyway we'll see what will happen.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Paul,
The RZ uses a 5/8 inch (15.87mm) master cylinder which was a common Yamaha size for twin disks.
I got one off ebay that was supposedly for many Yamaha models and it cost about 30 bucks (new) I seem to remember reading somewhere that they are made in India.
GSXR's typically use a 5/8 M/C, so if you don't need originality, that's another way to go.
teazer
The RZ uses a 5/8 inch (15.87mm) master cylinder which was a common Yamaha size for twin disks.
I got one off ebay that was supposedly for many Yamaha models and it cost about 30 bucks (new) I seem to remember reading somewhere that they are made in India.
GSXR's typically use a 5/8 M/C, so if you don't need originality, that's another way to go.
teazer
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
probably but the rectifier or regulator wont let it go above 12 voltsSuzukidave wrote:John , i am not really up to speed on 500 chargeing specs but shouldnt the charging system charge at more like 13.5 volts .. 11.7 ~12 still sounds low to me .
all I'm bothered about its charging.
oh and it makes no difference with either high or low beam
still fluctuate between 11.7..12 volts.
when the guy tested it he said it wont go above due to the rectifier.
this is the after market..regulater/rectifier by electrex.
these were made specificly for the T500.