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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:31 pm 
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Around the block

Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2018 2:27 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Stoke england
Country: United Kingdom
Bikes owned: Yr5 t500j
Any tips for this I've got it apart but isn't cleaning up any plus the lens would have to come out to get at the ring but that you see looking down at it.and I'm unsure how to get that out ? Does the white sleeve pull out?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 1:50 pm 
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Novice racer

Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:04 pm
Posts: 932
Country: England, UK
Bikes owned: FZ50, GP100, RG125 Gamma, GT380, Bandit 1200S
Any pics to help understand what you mean? Perhaps details of what bike you are referring to...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:06 am 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
Posts: 357
Country: england
Bikes owned: several gt250 ramairs
if you're referring to the white bodied speedo/tacho, then they are a bit of a pain to do, but do-able :D first you need to strip them out of the holders/black casing, then get all the [usually] green silicone or whatever it is off. be careful doing this, because there's a notch in the white casing that aligns the speedo face, so you don't want to knock that off. once it's loose, pull all the inside workings out and put it safe, where it won't get scratched. the yellow lens is impossible to get out atm :D when you get it out you'll see why. what i usually do is sit the white casing on the floor and aim a heat gun at the middle of the lens until it starts bubbling and melting, then prize it out with a strong screwdriver, while it's soft. it goes hard again very quickly, so you might have to have a couple of goes at it. be careful not to heat the white outer casing or you'll distort it. get some 2mm acrylic discs, cut to size - somewhere round the 80mm mark, but you'll have to check. i use this bloke: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2mm-Acrylic- ... 1438.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; about £9 for 5 discs. get cast acrylic, not extruded. glue the lens on, after removing the backing paper and cleaning the lens. i use technicoll polychloride glue, which is for hard plastics. it takes several hours to harden though, but once it's hardened, it's STUCK. rebuild clock and make sure the cut-out is on the notch. you need some good silicone sealant to fix the metal base plate, or use gorilla glue - very sparingly, then the silicone over the top. leave for several hours to go off. once all hard, peel the top backing paper off the lens, give it a wipe and pop back in the black body. bit of a long, drawn out process, but once the clocks are back in they look good - and you'll be able to see how fast you're going :D i've done about 20 sets like this and it really makes a difference to the look of the clocks.
cheers, dd.
ps, that technicoll glue will also mend plastic sidepanels and sticks them perfectly and strongly.

_________________
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 3:20 am 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
Posts: 357
Country: england
Bikes owned: several gt250 ramairs
perhaps not perfect, but which would you rather have?
cheers, dd.

BEFORE:
Image

AFTER:
Image

_________________
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 1:37 pm 
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Novice racer

Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:04 pm
Posts: 932
Country: England, UK
Bikes owned: FZ50, GP100, RG125 Gamma, GT380, Bandit 1200S
Someone put proper glass ones on my clocks. I removed them and re-glued them when I refurbished them, but they are nice and clear and will stay looking like that forever, or until they get smashed (hopefully not the latter).


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