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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:35 am 
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On the main road

Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:14 pm
Posts: 174
Location: southeast pa
Country: us
Bikes owned: GT
I used Blue Devil pour n go oil stop leak on my T250 with success, first i would fill the crankcase to the top to check for leaks,if it holds the level good,I would drain some off but keeping seals submerged,spinning crank occasionally it is much easier to drain with the engine out of the frame,you just dump out,not sure if T350 has drain plugs under crankcase.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:43 am 
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Location: southeast pa
Country: us
Bikes owned: GT
Alan H wrote:
The crank seal between the transmission end of the crank and the points cam takeoff can be changed without stripping the engine completely.

Can this seal be replaced,I thought on a 550 it was behind the main bearing that is held in by the c-ring.
Sorry to take over your thread.

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76 GT185
77 GT250
77 GT380
76 GT500
73 GT550
73 GT750
74 GT750
71 T250 scrambler
75 T500 cafe


Last edited by karl pa on Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:43 am 
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World Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 2209
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: GT550s GT750 GSX1400 and lots of spares
GT500-2stroke wrote:
Also, How do I remove diesel fuel after soaking?
Till what level should I fill in diesel fuel in crankcases?

Thanks.

1. Tip the engine upside down.
2. It needs to be higher than the highest bearing.

Cover the big ends as well as the crank bearings and seals. Turn the engine over slowly for a few minutes, several times.
It does work - I've done 3 engines like this now.
Oil all bearings after you've drained the diesel. It'll smoke really badly and you may need a squirt or 2 of easy start initially, but you'll see the house eventually and the bike should be ok then.

See here - http://www.kettleclinic.co.uk/kcforum/v ... 490#p57490 towards the bottom of page 1 for a full description of how to do it.


Last edited by Alan H on Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:45 am 
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World Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 2209
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: GT550s GT750 GSX1400 and lots of spares
karl pa wrote:
Alan H wrote:
The crank seal between the transmission end of the crank and the points cam takeoff can be changed without stripping the engine completely.

Can this seal be replaced,I thought it was behind the main bearing that is held in by the c-ring.
Sorry to take over your thread.

That's the one in the clutch case that has the C ring (2 bearings and 2 seals as well.)

See my last couple of posts here - http://www.kettleclinic.co.uk/kcforum/v ... wig#p87891


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:09 am 
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On the main road

Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:14 pm
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Location: southeast pa
Country: us
Bikes owned: GT
I think on a 550 the only seal that will pull transmission oil into the engine is the one behind the main bearing with the c-ring
Blue devil seal repair is a conditioner,to help soften the rubber

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77 GT250
77 GT380
76 GT500
73 GT550
73 GT750
74 GT750
71 T250 scrambler
75 T500 cafe


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 12:47 pm 
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World Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 2209
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: GT550s GT750 GSX1400 and lots of spares
Ahhh, bugger. I thought that seal was outboard, like at the other end behind the alternator. Drat and double drat, Muttley!
With the smoke out of tbe RH pot, that seal is definitely toast.
Looks like a complete strip when I've done the other 550 resto.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 8:59 am 
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Expert racer

Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 5:38 pm
Posts: 1435
Location: New Hampshire
Country: USA
Bikes owned: Suz, Yam, Honda, Kaw.
I'm late, but d have experience on Suz twin.

smoke: Usually its center seal, dried and not sealing very well. One lip does not have spring around for tight seal.. poor design IMO.

If your crank is good so don't feel like rebuilding, soak seals in modern reseal like Blue Devil or ATP-205.

I hate the crank for I think big end bearing too small. If you plan to use bike, have crank rebuilt and at a min replace big end pin and bearing. Again inspect your crank. What's the mileage on it?

Boring: You may be able to bore up to 2.0mm. There used to period wisecos that are 2.0 (P8s). Paul Miller has some new custom Wiseco 1.5mm at times. There is a post here somewhere if you go above 1.0 bore the piston hits case or something but easy fix. I have seen some T350/305 cyls where the intake port divider has thin area due to casting flaws. Inspect for thin spot. Else OK.

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77 Yamaha RD400 (Daytona Cyls),


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