T500 selector fork shaft removal

[Splant]

Is there something that holds this in ? It's sliding slightly but then tapping as though it's held in by something, also when making a dam thingy to allow more oil capacity does it have to be perfectly level to deal with the top case? Cheers

[dorT500]

Hello Splant,

You have to take the contact off under that black plastic neutral safety switch housing on the left first.
Sorry, not sure exactly what you mean about the oil dam and the upper case.

[dorT500]

Oops....forgot. Do this also if you have not done already
..there is also a stop/guide bolt by an oil drain bolt and that has to be removed. Remove the detent bolt also.
Be sure and put the correct bolts back into their correct holes.

[Splant]

Yes done them ,it's not the drum it's the shiny chrome rod the forks slide on that won't come out,STOP PRESS got it out i didn't think it would need so much force ,gripped it with Mike grips inside and tapped it . ,and the dam thing what people make to increase the oil capacity i thought it might have to be perfectly level to seal against the top cases but I've just looked at the top case and t doesn t. I still don't understand why it helps ,I know it goes into the clutch side but what if you just put more and more oil in until the oils higher and level all through the cases ? It's not as though it's coming out of the engine when the dams not there. There's not 2 different separated oil compartments ,although I discovered 2 drain bolts after removing clutch cover . Why is that? can you just drain the dirty clutch oil and leave cleaner gear oil?

[dorT500]

Sorry, the work 'selector' in your description threw me off. With the hold in plate for the shift drum and fork shaft off, I don't see why the fork shaft should not be able to
be easily pulled out by its nipple with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Other info to address your other questions. I don't know if you know that clauss studios in the states makes the oil dam but I guess just the cost of even that little part to ship to you...with other fees on your side of the big pond might be more than the part itself. Just a guess. Won't hurt to ask them. Sounds like you want to make your own anyway but here is the link to clauss just in case. https://www.claussstudios.com/store/p47 ... _1973.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" In any event the oil dam looks like it will sit just under 2mm under the kickstart shaft.

Have another look at you lower case. The floor of the gearbox is a tad higher than the floor of the clutch compartment. That is why you have to remove both the drain bolts shown. Some just go ahead and remove all three. Again, you have to make sure you get the bolts back in the correct holes if you remove the detent bolt also to drain oil.

Oher 'stuff'....

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13676" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"


http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/techb ... %201-5.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" ...







http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/oilmod.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

You had mentioned in your other thread that you were having trouble posting pics. You have to use an outside image hosting site like Flikr https://www.flickr.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

I happen to use Imgur https://imgur.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" Both are free.....at least for now. You can also reduce/edit the pictures if need be at the same site.

Just poke around those sites and see if they might be the ticket. If you are still having trouble and if you want, you can email me the pictures and I will post them for you. Just let me know and I will send you an email address through the Sundial private message system you can send them to.

[Splant]

Cheers I've signed up for Flickr but I've no idea how to work it .I think if I edit my own a lot smaller they,ll work. Yes I've just made my own dam it was looking good attached with a small bolt and Jb weld but then I realised the shaft has to go through it so ground a u shape out of It and gone to far it's only 8 mm high .It was originally from Kansas seems were pinching them all off you in afraid. Cheers

[dorT500]

Very nice bike. You did well.

Your dam is wrong. Please look at the pictures again at the links I provided. Suzuki adjusted their casting beginning with the '74 as shown on the my '75 case I posted. Please look at my measuring again. The wall is about 10mm below the other one.You have your dam going all the way to the top and except for the notch not needed, all the way across. As I said before, the top of the dam should wind up being just under 2 mm under the kickstart shaft. Suzuki did it their way for a reason.....also discussed in the links and snip provided.They could have just as easily cast it your way but they didn't......but it's your bike.....your call.

You had been concerned about what condition the crankshaft might be in. Now that you have opened everything up, is it turning smoothly? Are you going to have the four seals and 'o' rings replaced?

Good Luck and have fun.

[Splant]

Thanks i get it now, out with the grinder again, how do you keep an eye on the level with no dipstick? I was amazed that most bearings spun well and even the con rod small ends looked good ,just the left main bearing is gone ,rusty and seal leaking, I'll renew outer seals but hope middles are ok.There's a bearing on eBay now in u.s. but has rust showing ,so I think i,ll get the remanufactured one here in the UK for £80. Can engineering shops machine the old bearings out to fit a common one or is the metal to hard for a lathe?

[dorT500]

........It was originally from Kansas.........

Just like Dorothy, after looking around, your bike must be thinking..... 'uh-oh, I don't think we're in Kansas anymore'.

............how do you keep an eye on the level with no dipstick? Can engineering shops machine the old bearings out to fit a common one or is the metal to hard for a lathe?

Where as removing the oil level screw on the clutch cover was originally designed to indicate oil level, as a matter of accuracy, disregard it now and make your own dipstick. I just made one out of some narrow stainless steel scrap coil stock I had laying around and carry it on the bike with other tools at all times.

Just add the correct amount of oil, stick your new stick in and just snip it a bit where oil level is indicated. You could make one out of thin aluminum flat bar or whatever you might have handy that will work.




and yes, some were tooling the original crankshaft bearing shells to accommodate a generic/readily available bearing... properly drilling for oil ports and with the correct I.D. I believe it was Pete O'Dell that was working with Cruzinimage a couple or three years ago? on large runs of pattern bearings but then there was something about how the company did not locate the oil ports on the bearings correctly? I did not keep up with it all and do not know how that story ended

[jabcb]

Where as removing the oil level screw on the clutch cover was originally designed to indicate oil level, as a matter of accuracy, disregard it now and make your own dipstick. I just made one out of some narrow stainless steel scrap coil stock I had laying around and carry it on the bike with other tools at all times.

Just add the correct amount of oil, stick your new stick in and just snip it a bit where oil level is indicated. You could make one out of thin aluminum flat bar or whatever you might have handy that will work.
...

Suzuki didn’t move the oil level screw when they upped the oil level. An older topic has a pic that shows how much the error is.

I do something similar on all of my Suzuki two stroke twins & triples, except for the GT380. The GT380 has a plate in the clutch cover that prevents the use of this method.