The led to each cylinder should only light up when the rotor is over the optical sensor. Then as it goes out it fires the coil. You need to check your connector plug is together correctly. Whilst the LED is on the coil is charging your battery needs charging or replacing with those readings. Just one more important point. Given your location make sure you adjust the system in low light condition as direct sunlight on the optic sensors can cause them to malfunction. ALWAYS make sure the engine covers are on when outside.
If you have lost the instructions look here bottom of the page http://www.medial.se/suzuki/newtronic/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Correct. As I understand it the coil starts to charge when the light beam is just broken and the LED should be lit. The coil fires as the trailing edge just leaves the IR beam and the LED goes out.
Newtronics instructions are a bit lacking though the latest versions are much better. The blue lead goes to a solid ground - preferably straight to the battery ground.
You really want to see a full 12 volts with a well charged battery. Often there is a voltage drop across switch contacts where they are old and corroded, so take time to clean them. Simple trick is to spray WD40 through the switch and then work them back and forth - on and off to wipe the contacts clean.
Newtronics are connected to all 3 coils in place of the points, plus a power lead from the back of the RUN-OFF switch.
A simple check is to remove all 3 spark plugs and the plug caps and lay the plug leads on the head or barrels and see if a spark jumps across as it's kicked over. The last one I had on a bike I bought, had a power lead that was coming out of its crimped connector and the black box leads are very thin and easy to damage.
tz375 wrote:Correct. As I understand it the coil starts to charge when the light beam is just broken and the LED should be lit. The coil fires as the trailing edge just leaves the IR beam and the LED goes out.
Newtronics instructions are a bit lacking though the latest versions are much better. The blue lead goes to a solid ground - preferably straight to the battery ground.
You really want to see a full 12 volts with a well charged battery. Often there is a voltage drop across switch contacts where they are old and corroded, so take time to clean them. Simple trick is to spray WD40 through the switch and then work them back and forth - on and off to wipe the contacts clean.
Newtronics are connected to all 3 coils in place of the points, plus a power lead from the back of the RUN-OFF switch.
A simple check is to remove all 3 spark plugs and the plug caps and lay the plug leads on the head or barrels and see if a spark jumps across as it's kicked over. The last one I had on a bike I bought, had a power lead that was coming out of its crimped connector and the black box leads are very thin and easy to damage.
I'm not a big fan.
All very useful. Thanks. But you didn't tell me why all three LEDs might be on - and stay on - reglardless of turning the engine over, with no spark of course.
From a position of ignorance not have used a newtronics system, but fromm a position of some electronics knowledge and description of the operation provided.
If when the chopper breaks the beam (no light falls on the sensor) the LED come on, so:
Possibility 1) There is no light to fall on the senor regardless of if the chopper breaks the beam or not. No power or low power to the sensors to switch the light on could be the cause. I would expect its a near infra-red LED in the sensor so your eyes can't see it but some cameras will be sensitive to NIR. Try using a camera (your phone perhaps) to video the sensors see if it detects any light, if your want to test if your camera is NIR sensitive point your TV remote at it while pressing a button you should be able to see the emitter in the remote flashing. If the camera has a night vision mode turn it on.
Possibility 2) Assuming breaking the beam make a low signal and unbroken beam high, no connection or bad connection or wrong connection would all look like a broken beam to the electronics hence LEDs on. Check connections carefully.
Possibility 3) Your weak battery can't supply enough power for the unit to function properly. If you have got a reasonable quality battery charger you could connect it to the battery while still attached to the bikes electrics. The electronics should only require a few milliamps to work, might not be enough for the coils, to fire properly be the sensors and electronics should function OK. Ill stress a good quality battery charger as a cheap one might no be well rectified and regulated and could damage the unit depending on how well protected the design is. Most electronics work at 5v or 3.3v so 11v at the battery should be OK though.
Hopefully some ideas to move you along with your diagnostics.
AK
akendall1966 wrote:From a position of ignorance not have used a newtronics system, but fromm a position of some electronics knowledge and description of the operation provided.
If when the chopper breaks the beam (no light falls on the sensor) the LED come on, so:
Possibility 1) There is no light to fall on the senor regardless of if the chopper breaks the beam or not. No power or low power to the sensors to switch the light on could be the cause. I would expect its a near infra-red LED in the sensor so your eyes can't see it but some cameras will be sensitive to NIR. Try using a camera (your phone perhaps) to video the sensors see if it detects any light, if your want to test if your camera is NIR sensitive point your TV remote at it while pressing a button you should be able to see the emitter in the remote flashing. If the camera has a night vision mode turn it on.
Possibility 2) Assuming breaking the beam make a low signal and unbroken beam high, no connection or bad connection or wrong connection would all look like a broken beam to the electronics hence LEDs on. Check connections carefully.
Possibility 3) Your weak battery can't supply enough power for the unit to function properly. If you have got a reasonable quality battery charger you could connect it to the battery while still attached to the bikes electrics. The electronics should only require a few milliamps to work, might not be enough for the coils, to fire properly be the sensors and electronics should function OK. Ill stress a good quality battery charger as a cheap one might no be well rectified and regulated and could damage the unit depending on how well protected the design is. Most electronics work at 5v or 3.3v so 11v at the battery should be OK though.
Hopefully some ideas to move you along with your diagnostics.
AK
Incredibly helpful. Very grateful indeed. Am just hoping its a low battery and teh ref LEDs all lighting is a warning of that. will update you. best
On the black box connector, there are three wires that connect to the coils and that connection may be a hack into the OEM harness. I would check to see if that looks OK.
Then I'd check voltage on the orange lead and check that the blue lead is grounded.
And then check the odd Newtronics plug and the way it is connected to the timing unit. And the ground strap from motor to chassis. I believe if the timing unit is not correctly connected, the LEDs will all be on.
It is also possible that the unit is damaged, but I would check the easy stuff before you throw it out and fit an Accent which will require the wiring to be original ie stock connectors.
tz375 wrote:On the black box connector, there are three wires that connect to the coils and that connection may be a hack into the OEM harness. I would check to see if that looks OK.
Then I'd check voltage on the orange lead and check that the blue lead is grounded.
And then check the odd Newtronics plug and the way it is connected to the timing unit. And the ground strap from motor to chassis. I believe if the timing unit is not correctly connected, the LEDs will all be on.
It is also possible that the unit is damaged, but I would check the easy stuff before you throw it out and fit an Accent which will require the wiring to be original ie stock connectors.
tz375 wrote:On the black box connector, there are three wires that connect to the coils and that connection may be a hack into the OEM harness. I would check to see if that looks OK.
Then I'd check voltage on the orange lead and check that the blue lead is grounded.
And then check the odd Newtronics plug and the way it is connected to the timing unit. And the ground strap from motor to chassis. I believe if the timing unit is not correctly connected, the LEDs will all be on.
It is also possible that the unit is damaged, but I would check the easy stuff before you throw it out and fit an Accent which will require the wiring to be original ie stock connectors.
In fact, it turned out ot be a broken cable coming from the timing unit that i had previously soldered but had come lose. At least we now know what it means when all three LEDS are red on the unit.
