A Harbor Fright 20-Ton press, some 2x4 wood, a spare socket about the size of the conrods and a Harbor Fright bearing puller. Nothing special, it was actually easier to pull the crank apart then to drill out and extract two of the counter-balance weight screws that stripped on me. You have to remove the weight because it obstructs half the conrod to press on. I just put the bearing puller on under each part, chocked it up on some 2x4 wood laid down on the press blocks (that come with the press) and put a socket on the conrod then pressed down. I don't think a 12 ton press would get the job done but who knows. I got everything on sale plus 20% discount and it came to about $200 for the stuff below.tz375 wrote:If you don't mind me asking, what sort of jigs did you need to build to press the crank apart and what press did you get
Press : http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-sho ... 32879.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Bearing Puller Kit : http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-se ... 93980.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
First thing I did was buy some longer grade-8 bolts and nuts for the puller because it wasn't quite big enough for car bearings, which cost me like $4 at Tractor Supply.
I pulled from the kick-starter side but it would have been easier to pull from the generator side, two less bearings to pull and you wouldn't have to unscrew the weight. I pulled them anyways to clean them up in the good old ultra-sonic cleaner and recondition them back to as new as I can. They all spin freely but it can't hurt.
Thanks Alan H, the guy I bought it from said a "shop" built this bike as a cafe racer and it ran fine for a while then stopped. I knew the guy was a bit shady when he said the button on the side cover was a "kill button". What it turned out to be was a button someone wired in to a relay to spin the starter/generator. Well it would "kill" the motor because one starer brush was BROKE and the wire was BURNT. I replaced both and, Voila, it now works great. I'm sure after the crank seals were fried someone kept cranking the bike and eventually burnt the brush out.Alan H wrote:Don't run CCI engines on premix. The cranks are designed to move oil AWAY from the bearings & seals. Perhaps the oil pump wasn't working too good in the first place which caused the seal problem originally.
make sure everything is well lubed - seals & bearing wise when you rebuild,- but check the pump and prime the pipes before you start it!.
I'm thinking old seals + CCI delete running "premix" culminated in to failed seals. To be 100% honest, I didn't know what a CCI was before starting on this project but I got the manual and followed the trouble-shooting flow chart. Top end compression was great, the cylinder jug seals were good but there was no intake pressure sucking air in. I just taped paper in front of the intake holes and they didnt even try to "suck in" when starting. No sucky, no fuel.
It was a scary thought about "pulling the crank" and pressing it apart but as of right now I'm pretty confident I could pull the motor, the crank and pull it apart in an evening. I love how the manual tells you not only how to do it, but what tools you need, socket sizes and even torque specs when you put it back together. How convenient!
