4 GT750s Barn find by a newbie HELP!

[Edoc]

Many hours of cleaning just to get to this point
The exhaust had burnt on oil and crude, Much rust. You can see near mikes hand where we are not yet done. We scrubbed with Scotch Brite pads and tries several cleaners. The worst of the rust was taken off with 000 steal wool.

A few questions:
1. All the chrome is rusted with mild to moderate pitting. We can make much of the chrome look pretty good and some areas even look like new with steel wool and a lot of elbow grease. However, I suspect that even where it looks perfect, on a microscopic level the chromed part is open to steel in many places. The part will quickly rust again unless re-chromed. Is there a way to seal the part and not go to the expense of chroming? How about on an exhaust pipe?

2. Can anyone tell me what seat goes with what bike?

3. If these were your bikes, what would you do with them? My inclination is to completely restore the 1972 to original condition, Make at least one touring bike with a Vetter fairing and bags.

4. Are the Vetter fairings and Bates saddle bags worth much? Is a bike with Fairing and bags considered "desirable" to someone interested in classic bikes?


THANKS

[tz375]

A nice bike is starting to emerge there. If they were mine I'd probably do something similar. 72 to candy lavender OEM condition in all its pinkness, 77 custom as a custom and one other as a period touring bike with fairing and bags and sell the other 1 or 2 to clear some space.

SuzukiSmokinAllan and OJB are probably the seat experts. That clean sued king and queen would look great on the period cruiser.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Nice haul - I'm envious !

Richard is too kind, but the only seat I'd claim to be an expert on is the one I sit in when I'm watching the babble box in the evening Having said that, the seats having 'Suzuki GT' and that oval top seat pattern were 1974 L seats (the one with the smooth top has obviously been repaired at some point). The other two with just 'Suzuki' in the san-serif font are either replacement covers, or off a 1976 A or a 1977 B, as most of the 1975 M models had 'Suzuki' in a serif font.

[Rhencullen]

That's a fantastic haul of bikes there Edoc .... as other Brits have said - 'things like that don't happen over here.'

Are the Vetter fairings and Bates saddle bags worth much? Is a bike with Fairing and bags considered "desirable" to someone interested in classic bikes?

Certainly not in the UK ....... although it was more common practice to 'dress' a bike in America.

You certainly look to have the space in the garage to work on the bikes too - good luck with the rebuilds

[Edoc]

" 72 to candy lavender OEM condition in all its pinkness, 77 custom as a custom and one other as a period touring bike with fairing and bags and sell the other 1 or 2 to clear some space."

Richard, nearly exactly my thoughts including the OEM Lavender. I was thinking some sort of monochrome custom version for the 77.

"Richard is too kind, but the only seat I'd claim to be an expert on is the one I sit in when I'm watching the babble box in the evening Having said that, the seats having 'Suzuki GT' and that oval top seat pattern were 1974 L seats (the one with the smooth top has obviously been repaired at some point). The other two with just 'Suzuki' in the san-serif font are either replacement covers, or off a 1976 A or a 1977 B, as most of the 1975 M models had 'Suzuki' in a serif font."

Ian, that makes sense. I was looking at the latches under the seat. The smooth seat pan must have come from the 72. GT oval top goes to the red 74. The other 2 seats the 1977 and possibly to the gray 1975 M if any were used in that year. If the 1975 was from the end of the run would it have this seat?

"Certainly not in the UK ....... although it was more common practice to 'dress' a bike in America.
You certainly look to have the space in the garage to work on the bikes too - good luck with the rebuilds "

Rhencullen,
Unfortunately not my garage. My friend Roger's shop. I have a good work shop being redone, but about 1/5 the size of his.
I agree with the Brits. The original bikes look a lot better. Maybe I could do an original with quick release plexi windscreen and soft removable bags so I can do some long distance on one of these bikes. I have done this with my VTX 1300 to keep the nice cruiser look and still enjoy a long trip.


Any ideas about this question?
1. All the chrome is rusted with mild to moderate pitting. We can make much of the chrome look pretty good and some areas even look like new with steel wool and a lot of elbow grease. However, I suspect that even where it looks perfect, on a microscopic level the chromed part is open to steel in many places. The part will quickly rust again unless re-chromed. Is there a way to seal the part and not go to the expense of chroming? How about on an exhaust pipe?

[ConnerVT]

Any ideas about this question?
1. All the chrome is rusted with mild to moderate pitting. We can make much of the chrome look pretty good and some areas even look like new with steel wool and a lot of elbow grease. However, I suspect that even where it looks perfect, on a microscopic level the chromed part is open to steel in many places. The part will quickly rust again unless re-chromed. Is there a way to seal the part and not go to the expense of chroming? How about on an exhaust pipe?

No magic bullet here. Keep it clean. Keep it dry. Keep it waxed.

[Edoc]

I Spent much of the day cleaning and transporting this one.
Original paint is in good shape. I hope to be able to preserve it. Trim decals on far side of tank look funky and will need replacing. Chrome is badly rusted and pitted.
Light to medium rust in the tank and small dent.

Where is the best place to get tank trim decals?
How do you remove old decals without damaging the paint?
After the tank is cleaned out, Do I need to line it to prevent further rust, or will using a little oil in the gas coat the inside well enough to prevent rust?

Thanks again for all the help. I don't think I would attempt this restoration without your help.

Tim

[pearljam724]

For the tanks, use a product called Evaporust. Its sold in automotive stores. It's an amazing rust remover. It will make all rust disappear with the exception of heavy pitting. Buy 1 to two gallons, let it do its work up to 3 or 4 days. Mixing it around every several hours in between. Don't remove it until you're immediately ready to seal the interior or rust will reappear if you don't seal it within a day or two.

[tz375]

I didn't notice the pod filters on that M before

[Suzukidave]

I can tell now this is going to get interesting

[Suzukidave]

I havent tried this but this looks like a perfect test to try it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ-uf4YyeHI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; scrubbing rusted chrome with a ball of aluminum foil also does an amazing job without scratching up the chrome surface .

[Edoc]

I havent tried this but this looks like a perfect test to try it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ-uf4YyeHI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; scrubbing rusted chrome with a ball of aluminum foil also does an amazing job without scratching up the chrome surface .

I have lots of rust to test ideas on. I have a friend who has restored a few Hondas including one to win peoples choice award at the Barber Vintage Motorcycle Festival. He uses WD-40 and steel wool. The advantage to this method and the MM oil is that you have instant rust protection until you move on to to the next step.

Methods I will try:
1. WD-40 plus steel wool
2. Marvel Mystery Oil
3. Ball of aluminum
4. Ball of aluminum and Steel wool plus Marvel Mystery Oil.

If I use a very fine brass brush on a drill, will I damage chrome? How about aluminum?
Any other ideas?

Thanks again for all the help
Thanks Bloop for the great link
Tim

[Edoc]

Update:
1977 is down to the frame. Motor removed, Lots of hours spent cleaning and polishing.
Dead rat and lots of trash under motor covers, but the motor itself looks good.
Some of the motor covers look like new with a lot of cleaning and polishing.

Later this week I will sort all the painted parts for sandblasting and then decide if I will do them my self or have the person doing powder coating do the sandblasting.
I hope to take the chromed parts for an opinion from a professional.
I need to remove the chrome from the tank.

1975 (gray):The fairing was removed. The tank was damaged a little by the fairing. All the original Suzuki light bezels seem to be missing (taken off to make room for fairings).

1974 (red): Cleaned. So far very little pitting on chrome on this one

1. I am not sure how to remove the chrome from the chromed fuel tank. Will sandblasting work? Should it be dechromed?

2. Does anyone know anything about the rear luggage/ saddle bag thing on the back of the '74?

3. I removed one exhaust baffle and cleaned it with a wire brush then a torch. I did not touch the wrapped area. Should this part of the baffle be unwrapped and cleaned? If so what should I rewrap it with?

4. The front headlight rings are missing on all 4 bikes. Is this item shared with later GS750? Where would I find a replacement.

THANKS
Tim

[Sandman]

I wonder whatever happened with these bikes. Update?

[celt_rock]

+1