SRIS upper grommet

[kawonda750]

Just in case it was missed on my other post, I could use some input. When re-assembling the case halves on my Gt550, how do I do the SRIS hoses in the top? Do I thread them through the grommet while balancing the case half above which seems a bit of a contorsion or, do I pop the upper grommet out and run the hoses through the big hole and then stick the already threaded grommet and hoses back in the case?
This sounds like the correct way. None of my 3 shop manuals tells me how to accomplish this.
Thanks
Dave

[Alan H]

Whatever suits you really. I put the bottom end of the engine in the frame & thread the pipes in then, before clutch, barrels etc. are fitted. Remember to pipe them correctly - https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_ ... s/page-A50 -
The grommets are labelled top & bottom with where the pipes come from/go to if you look carefully. I use soft nylon tube for the job.

[kawonda750]

Thanks Alan. I left them in the bottom but will check the routing to be sure. I actually took the top grommet out to assemble the cases. It is cold in my shop so I had to wait for my wife to go out to work before commandeering her hair drier to soften it up a bit before pushing it out.

So, you don't use the Suzuki tubes? Where would I find suitable tubing?
Dave

[Alan H]

Ebay is your friend!

[kawonda750]

I am pretty sure that I can salvage the lines. I have the cases together after only one other assembly and then break down again. The kick start shaft was a real pain. The spring kept coming out of the little seat for it. I finally pried the case open slightly and used a screwdriver to put the spring back in position and quickly pushed the upper case into position. Loaded the kick spring and everything works now.

The Kawasaki kick spring technique is easier. Probably because I've done them at least 20 times.... I am also kicking myself for not vapour blasting the cases beforehand. Doing lots of spraying and brushing now. The things you learn........

[kawonda750]

Continuing on putting this engine back together.

Sorry to always compare but my main experience is with Kaw triples. Is it necessary, or at least advisable, to use some kind of gasket goop on cylinder base gaskets as it is with Kawasakis ? I was figuring that with lower cylinder base studs and nuts that the sealing would be much better with Suzuki...

Also learning a dos and don'ts of Suzukis. Like, which way the primary drive gear goes on the crankshaft.. and how to remove and then replace the clutch basket. Fun and educational stuff.

[Alan H]

Not needed. You can very lightly smear some grease on the case top and barrels base to hopefully stop the base gasket sticking, but it always does! Not needed on barrels to head joint, but doesn't hurt.

https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm . Use year, model, area of interest for full exploded diagrams etc. Save the above link on your desktop.

Here's another - https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/

[kawonda750]

Thanks Alan. I have the parts manual. I was following the Haynes shop manual and the picture showed the flat part of the primary gear facing out. I should have looked at the distributor drive first and figured that out but, of course, I didn't.
Good experience anyway.

[Alan H]

No probs mate.

[kawonda750]

I hate to be a PITA but this clutch is giving me fits.

The parts manual shows 1 bearing in the clutch basket. There are 2 in mine, one on each end of the basket. Is this correct or did the PO double up by mistake? Should I have one or two? Plus, if only one, does the bearing go on the inside or outside of the centre divider? The existing 2 bearings are on each side.

Also pictured, the Haynes manual shows an inner thrust washer before the basket goes on but the parts manual does not show one. The Haynes shows a quite different set up including an extra smaller gear on top of the primary gear.

Haynes shop manual GT550


Mrxl parts manual

[Alan H]

That's the early type clutch. Your 1974 550 should have the Borg warner type, so have a look here - and click on year, model, clutch for a full exploded diagram.
More info about the '74 model here - but it does show the earlier clutch - https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_ ... s/page-A50 , and the relevant service bulletin about the clutch is here - (2 pages) - https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_ ... ins/page-2 . Number GT26 about the middle of the index page.
Of course, Suzuki doesn't mention that there were two different Borg Warner units.......
Some interesting reading on the OJB site, Ian Sandy did some really good work before his untimely demise. It's well worth trawling through the service bulletins & saving the pics & other info for future reference.

[kawonda750]

Interestingly, I went to Partzilla who sell parts for many Japanese makes here in North America and the clutch listed for all years is the one that I have which does have 2 bearings supporting the inner sleeve for the clutch basket. I guess this was true for all the US/Canada models.

Another lesson learned. Use their parts list. Thank you for your constant help Alan. I am learning. Slowly, but learning...

[karl pa]

I believe the Haynes shop picture is for the 380, the 380 has a second gear on the primary to drive the points cam shaft, it also uses the timing pointer pictured.

[kawonda750]

Thank you Karl. I now notice that the Haynes manual is for both 380 and 550. You would think that they would at least have a separate page for 550. Of course, if I had shut the book up and looked at the outer cover, I would have noticed that.
Sometimes I absolutely amaze myself with the things that I am able to miss.

[Alan H]

Oh it gets better (worse?) as we get older......