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[Admin]

Sprocket Specialists carries them 30T up for the rear and 15T only for the front in 530. If you go to 520 you can get 13-16T for the front and 30 on up for the rear.

[Admin]

Sprocket Specialists carries them 30T up for the rear and 15T only for the front in 530. If you go to 520 you can get 13-16T for the front and 30 on up for the rear.

Hmmm...thanks for that. I tried them with no luck. Maybe I just missed it their catalog. Anyway, I got a set coming from JT Sprockets. Thanks again.

BTW, Zook - when I click on the Sundial link in your posts, it opens a web page labeled Sundialmotosports, but it's a gardening search engine. What's up with that?

Geezer.

[Admin]

You missed it Geezer, it's in the catalog.

Follow this link than in the drop down menu SUZUKI about 3/4 down the page.

http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/ProductSearch2.aspx


You missed up though....They are 10.00 each. kidding

[Admin]

You missed it Geezer, it's in the catalog.

Follow this link than in the drop down menu SUZUKI about 3/4 down the page.

http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/ProductSearch2.aspx


You missed up though....They are 10.00 each. kidding

I didn't miss that, but they only offer the rear. JT makes both in steel. PBI makes them both, but their rear is aluminum - not for me, thanks. That's why I went with JT.

Now it turns out that only Western Power Sports handles those sprocket numbers, and they said they'd have to special order them - 8 weeks. So I called JT - they told me to ask WPS to order them today and have them drop shipped to me. If WPS gets off their a$$es, the sprockets should ship on Monday. Isn't it a shame when you have dolts like me with money falling out a hole in my pocket, and morons like WPS who are too lazy to bend over to pick it up?

Geezer

[Admin]

Hmmmm I see what you mean....I do stand corrected or lack of looking for both.

[Admin]

...The other piston looks alright, in fact Scott Clough looked at it and said it'd be perfectly fine to re-use. There are pics of both pistons in the "2 strokes(street)" forum under the "thanks a lot CHP" thread

Spondon,
Because your holed piston was on the dry side of the crank, my money is on a failed left side crank seal. Two strokes and air leaks don't mix well. If that seal is bad, you'll suffer the same problem in short order when you put that fresh top end on the road.

Geezer

[Admin]

Evening all,

Can anybody help.

Is the Candy Lavender (or California Burgandy) actually a "Candy" paint or is it just the Suzuki name for a regular pigment paint. Candy paint apparently requires a silver base coat and the resulting shade is dependent upon the number of coats applied. In production engineering terms I can't believe this was the process originally applied by Suzuki.

Basically I need to find out how Suzuki did the job so that the paint shop can do the job correctly. I want to have a factory correct re-spray rather than something that borders on a "Custom" paint job.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Cheers Zunspec

[Admin]

Yep, they used a multi-coat process for the candy colors. Candy colors can be put over all kinds of different base coats to acheive a specific look. Candy apple red was most usually over a gold base.

I just painted a Buffalo with a base coat called Brick Yard Red with a Cinammon Candy coat followed by 4 coats of clear, then decal stripes, then 4 more coats of clear.

It takes a while and is rather expensive, but looks great. Bad news is that it is almost impossible to match an original 30 year old color because all the paint products have changed as well as the color codes for them.
It can be done by someone who is really good, or the more expensive route: "trial and error"

Spectrum analizers don't work very well on candy colors and the paint store where I bought my supplies will not guarantee a match on candies if the try to use them.

Wayne

[Admin]

Thanks Wayne,

So they really are "Candy" colours. Any idea of the spraying sequence ?

candy Base coat (silver) - Lavender - mask out White on top (as the last coat) + clear

or

White - mask out candy base coat (silver) - Lavender + clear

or

White as the base coat - mask out the Lavender and spray directly on top (the simplest sequence)

My spraying expertise only runs to spray cans and those simple air brush devices used on models (aeroplanes in my case). Paying for professional services is not cheap so I want to get it as right as I can first time, in this case standard Suzuki.

Cheers Zunspec

[Admin]

You are really going to need a good air compressor and spray gun to do it right if you are going to use a candy color. And remember, the paint job is only as good as the prep that is under it. If the prep is bad, the paint will not look good or last very long and you get to do it again. Spraying the base and candy is fairly easy, the clear is the hard part. You need to be sure the spray gun you are using has the correct size air cap for the paint you are using. Paint store can advise in that respect.
Sequence, assuming the piece is straight and primed with a good quality primer (preferably urethane) and then sanded with 600 grit paper:

1. Spray on two to three even coats of the base color making sure you have even total coverage. Most base colors cover well dry totally flat and are really easy to spray. Use the paint manufacturers recommendation on how long to let it flash before applying the candy, usually a matter of 20-30 minutes.
2. Spray on the candy topcoat to the desired color, usually each candy coat makes the color appear darker so you apply smooth even coats until it is as dark as you like. Usually at least two coats to insure total even coverage and they must be smooth, even coats. Fairly easy to spray with even coverage being the only thing to watch since the color is translucent it will appear blotchy if it is not even. Again, follow manuf. instructions on how long to let it flash before applying the clear, usually 20 to 30 minutes. This coat does not appear glossy when dry either.
3. Spray on two to four smooth, even coats of clear and then let it dry at least overnight. The clears used today are high solid clears and are hard to spray. An amatuer usually gets one of two things, either a dry, orange peel appearance, or runs and sags. The dry,orange peel is much easier to deal with so just beware. After the clear has dried at least overnight ( I usually wait several days) then sand out all the orange peel and/or runs and sags with 1500 or 2000 (my preference) until the piece is absolutely baby butt smooth, using criss-cross strokes and a rubber block as much as possible and light pressure.
4. Clean piece with soap and water and rinse THOUROUGHLY to make sure no soap residue remains on piece. Dry thoroughly and then if you want to add stripes or decals, now is the time. Once they are applied and the piece recleand and dried thoroughly, spray two to four more clear coats on top of the decals making sure the first coat is very light and is allowed to flash before the second coat is applied (this is to keeo the ink on the decal from bleeding through). If you want to apply painted on stripes or designs, follow the same procedure except you will mask off any area you don't want to paint and then spray the stripes on. This ain't easy, and is best left to a pro, but it can be done. If you plan on leaving the piece a single solid color, just put a couple of extra coats of clear on the first time and you are done.
5. Sand the clear again with 1500 or 2000 paper and water with just a slight amount of dish soap in it until it is baby butt smooth all over, all the orange peel is gone, any minor sags are sanded out (you MUST us a block when sanding out sags), then buff with really fine polishing compound, I use a 3M product called "Finesse-It II" but there are lots of choices that are just as good. This take a while but it will be a smooth as a mirror when finished.

Good luck,

Wayne

[Admin]

Thanks again Wayne,

I do intend to let a professional wield the spray gun, your great reply will help him for sure.

I'll use my own spraying skills for the black bits only

Cheers Zunspec

[Admin]

Can't find the thread now, but someone posted that they'd bought the seals on EBay and got press-in dust excluders instead. I also went that route. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0162881649 Here's our Email conversation. Note his response in bold below. Playing a game of semantics. He's simply got a bunch of dust excluders in various sizes, and he's advertising them to fit anything with the correct fork tube diameter. I was careful how I worded his feedback, because others he's done this to in the past left him negative feedback, and he posted a feedback reply calling them idiots and other names - not a professional. Beware.

Geezer
************************************************

Nik,
The item ordered was a set of fork seal wipers to fit 1976 and 1977 Suzuki GT500. I own a 1976 model. The product received is intended to be pressed into the tops of the fork sliders, but the correct item installs over the tops of the sliders and locates in a groove on the outside of the fork. See item #9 on the attached parts scematic. Thank you.
Regards,


Hi Stu,
These for dust wiper seals are for the GT500 these are dust caps / wiper seals (as in the picture in the ebay add you purchased from) and not the dust boots as you are wanting, if you send them back we will of course refund, this is the first i have heard back from you. Send them back and we will of course refund, these were advertised and fork wiper seals and the picture is of a fork wiper seal.
Regards,
Nik

Nik,
Sorry for the misunderstanding. At least here in the US, the terms "dust boot" and "wiper seal" are often used interchangeably, as they serve the same purpose - to prevent dirt from getting to the actual oil seal. As only one of the two is ever used on any particular machine, I assumed that your product was correct for the stated application. Had the picture been a side view, I'd have known otherwise. What you refer to as "wiper seal" is not a part that was ever installed on this machine, nor is it a suitable replacement part. Therefore, the claim in your EBay listing that this part is for 1976-77 Suzuki GT500 is inaccurate, at best. While I appreciate your offer to refund my purchase, I'd prefer to simply dispose of the product and consider the transaction a lesson learned. Thank you for replying.

Stu O

[Admin]

Hey Geezer,

I posted some photos of these same seals from "Pyramid" in this thread:

http://vancouver.globat.com/~sundialmot ... nobtainium

They sure don't look factory but they should protect the fork seal a bit. My feeling was they are better than nothing. Plus if you want to get fancy, you can paint a matching strip of color in the unused boot well on the fork leg.... or not...

I've really got to dig through my GT500 parts and see if I have a dust boot that's good enough for Jug to get copies made.....

Jim

[Admin]

Hey Geezer,

I posted some photos of these same seals from "Pyramid" in this thread:

Yeah, I know. That's where I ordered them from. Only after I ordered did I notice your picture of the part.

They sure don't look factory but they should protect the fork seal a bit. My feeling was they are better than nothing. Plus if you want to get fancy, you can paint a matching strip of color in the unused boot well on the fork leg.... or not...

Did they go in without having to remove the snap ring over the oil seal? Not too keen on doing that.

I've really got to dig through my GT500 parts and see if I have a dust boot that's good enough for Jug to get copies made.....
Jim

Both of mine are good enough...I think. Hey Jug - can you actually do this?

Geezer

[Admin]

I was hoping my covers were good enough but Juggy said they really need to be perfect to make good copies. Mine are cracked a bit. Hope some one has a really nice one? I told him I would be happy to help finance the initial set up so he wouldnt soak up the costs. Any one else interested and have a good dust cover. Dofin