Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:52 pm

The Suzuki shocks I've taken apart weren't pinned. Kaw shocks have been.

Lane

Post by **Admin** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:13 am

http://www.psep.biz/store/suspension_tools.htm

Post by **Admin** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:34 am

Hello all. I have a 73' buffalo & am getting ready to rebuild the forks. I like the look of the later GT's without the fork gaiters. My question is are the 73' forks compatible with the later model fork cover & seals or would I need to source a set of later model lowers? Thanks for the help, I can't even begin to tell you how much I enjoy this forum.
Go Pats!

Post by **Admin** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:35 pm

The forks on my '76 model were bad so I bought a good set for a '73 off ebay, the '73 model forks are taller from the groove, up to the top, and the wipers won't fit on. I guess you could take them apart and grind or machine them down so the wipers would work. I like the boots on mine now, looks OK to me.

Post by **Admin** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 1:47 pm

You could sell the '73 forks along with the gaiters and the chrome adapters that fit around the lower triple clamp and buy a later (75-77) set of forks and the later chrome trim bits that go around the fork legs at the triple clamp.

Then again, if you could find a set of the chrome lower triple bits, just pull off the gaiters and add the new chrome covers. Then you'd just need to find a dust seal that will work and you'd be set.

Jim

Post by **Admin** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:06 pm

Thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know how I make out.

Post by **Admin** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:00 pm

For the T20, I used a very large shop vise to compress the shock, then used 2 very heavy duty wire ties to hold the compressed spring closed. Releasing the shock in the vise exposed the top eye mount and the lock nut just below it. I reinserted the removed spring in the vise, centered, and compressed, cut the ties, and opened the vise. To re-install, compressed the spring to about a 6 3/4" length, tied again, and reversed the process. Worked pretty slick, and safe as long as one works with diligence and alcohol free. Lot of stored energy in that compressed spring.......

Post by **Admin** » Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:29 pm

ever heard they were sealed.... this mean that it is possible to open the hydraulic section then refill & reseal? Are the seals and piston available?

Post by **Admin** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:47 pm

Anybody know anything about these.

http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Motorcycle_P ... RBER-300MM

I find it interesting that when you punch Forza MDI shock into google, nothing about motorcycle shocks comes up.

HMMM....

Kevin

Post by **Admin** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 5:31 am

Looks like whats's on my T500,they work decent,short travel,stiff sprung,controlled damping,but they definately improve the handling over the stock shocks.Mine came on the bike so I don't know there origin.

Post by **Admin** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 6:05 am

Thanks Doug

Post by **Admin** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:15 pm

I am in the process of replacing the fork seals on my 73 Buffalo. I was wondering if you guys had any tips on the disassembly sequence. I have both forks loose & have removed the fork boots, removed the allen head bolt under the axle holder, drained the oil, & removed the circlip. What is the next step? Do I remove the fork tube cap & then spring? At some point the inner tube should slide out of the outer tube correct? I know this is a fairly simple disassembly, any help/tips would be appreciated.
Thanks & take care,
Bryan

Post by **Admin** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:46 am

The inner tube should slide right out once you get the allen bolt on the bottom out. Once the slider is out, and the circlip on top of the seal is removed, just CAREFULLY pry the seal out using a hook type seal remover, screwdriver, etc, but DO NOT damage the machined area on the outside circumference of the seal or the new seal will leak. Pry the seal out from the ID side.

Since you already have it apart, you may as well do the damper rod mod to improve handling. It only takes 10 minutes and the cost is $0 if you have a welder. Basically, all you do is weld up one of the rebound damping holes in the damper rod so that the rebound damping is better.

I'm not sure where the instructions reside, maybe one of the other forum guys will chime in that knows.

Wayne

Post by **Admin** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:45 am

http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/mags/forks.htm

Post by **Admin** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:16 pm

Wayne & Dave,
Thanks so much for the help. For some reason the stanchion is not sliding out of the lower tube. I have the lower allen bolt, circlip, & washer out & it seems to be catching on something. Do I just keep pulling on the stanchion until the seal comes out? I will give it another try tonight. I will probably try to dissasemble the other fork & see if I have the same problem. Any thoughts?
Take care,
Bryan

Archived Posts

Front fork boot/cover & seal question

Forza MDI shock

Fork Seal Replacement Tips