the stock gt caliper will work but the bracket needs a little massaging. the web between the caliper pins interferes with the caliper. the pin holes have to be ground on one end to centre the caliper to the rotor. a gs dual disc master and hoses work fine.
p.s. wet braking still sucks.
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my bike..
1975 T500 Titan, with front drum brakes
has a 1972 motor, with claims of a recent rebuild - including an overbore piston kit with new rings, porting work, and even a lightened and balanced crank..
quick question-
do these T500 bikes all just walk away from stock Honda sohc cb750 inline four motorcycles ? ( throguh 60 - 70 mph) cause this bike has smoked two of my friends cb750s without breaking a sweat.. ( i bleed Honda Red - but this zooky just keeps growing on me ! )
anyway, the little bike deffinately is in some desperate need of brakes to match its muscle. with its current drum brake up front, i will need a disc wheel, forks , brake calipers , brake master cylinder - the whole kit and kaboodle- to get some stopping power to match itss grunt..
again, just wondering if single disc brake up front will get the job done nicely, and if having dually disc brakes upfront amount to having just overkill...
and to let eveyrone know, i have a lathe/mill set up in the shop.. do some welding and sheetmetal work as well- not intimidated by doing some fab work to have a nice system for stopping the bike.. though i prefer to stick with spoke wheels to keep a period correct vintage look to the bike, i am wide open to suggestions here ( or i wouldnt have asked )
thanks to everyone for their help, their knowledge and replys..
thank you all for your time... DFB
has a 1972 motor, with claims of a recent rebuild - including an overbore piston kit with new rings, porting work, and even a lightened and balanced crank..
quick question-
do these T500 bikes all just walk away from stock Honda sohc cb750 inline four motorcycles ? ( throguh 60 - 70 mph) cause this bike has smoked two of my friends cb750s without breaking a sweat.. ( i bleed Honda Red - but this zooky just keeps growing on me ! )
anyway, the little bike deffinately is in some desperate need of brakes to match its muscle. with its current drum brake up front, i will need a disc wheel, forks , brake calipers , brake master cylinder - the whole kit and kaboodle- to get some stopping power to match itss grunt..
again, just wondering if single disc brake up front will get the job done nicely, and if having dually disc brakes upfront amount to having just overkill...
and to let eveyrone know, i have a lathe/mill set up in the shop.. do some welding and sheetmetal work as well- not intimidated by doing some fab work to have a nice system for stopping the bike.. though i prefer to stick with spoke wheels to keep a period correct vintage look to the bike, i am wide open to suggestions here ( or i wouldnt have asked )
thanks to everyone for their help, their knowledge and replys..
thank you all for your time... DFB
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The simplest and maybe cheapest - if you can get the parts is to fit a GT550 front end.
From there you can upgrade to different calipers but I already found that many modern calipers will not fit over the fat GT type disks. I know that SV650 calipers do and so I'm told to the EX calipers.
Next upgrade could be to a more modern disk. I had a pair of Honda CBR600F41 disks and they can be modified very simply to fit - especially if you have a lathe to make spacers.
If you are thinking of fitting 4 piston calipers you may have to try a few to get a set that are thin enough to miss the spokes. Modern wheels with cast spokes have more clearance than our old spoked wheels.
That's why the preferred option is a single twin piston caliper with two pistons on one side and with floating caliper design - not one piston each side.
You could always pick up a set of SV650 forks and a GT hub and spoke on a new rim, but that starts to become expensive and you have a lot of geometry checking to do.
From there you can upgrade to different calipers but I already found that many modern calipers will not fit over the fat GT type disks. I know that SV650 calipers do and so I'm told to the EX calipers.
Next upgrade could be to a more modern disk. I had a pair of Honda CBR600F41 disks and they can be modified very simply to fit - especially if you have a lathe to make spacers.
If you are thinking of fitting 4 piston calipers you may have to try a few to get a set that are thin enough to miss the spokes. Modern wheels with cast spokes have more clearance than our old spoked wheels.
That's why the preferred option is a single twin piston caliper with two pistons on one side and with floating caliper design - not one piston each side.
You could always pick up a set of SV650 forks and a GT hub and spoke on a new rim, but that starts to become expensive and you have a lot of geometry checking to do.
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Re: my bike..
Make ModelDaytonaFreakBros wrote:
quick question-
do these T500 bikes all just walk away from stock Honda sohc cb750 inline four motorcycles ? ( throguh 60 - 70 mph) cause this bike has smoked two of my friends cb750s without breaking a sweat.. ( i bleed Honda Red - but this zooky just keeps growing on me ! )
Suzuki T 500-II
Year
1971
Engine
Air cooled, two stroke, parallel two cylinder,
Capacity
492
Bore x Stroke 70 x 64 mm
Compression Ratio
Induction
Ignition / Starting
Max Power
44 hp @ 6000 rpm
Max Torque
Transmission / Drive
5 Speed / chain
Front Suspension
Telescopic forks
Rear Suspension
Dual shock absorbers
Front Brakes
Drum
Rear Brakes
Drum
Front Tyre
3.00-18
Rear Tyre
3.25-16
Dry-Weight
186 kg
Fuel Capacity
Make Model
Honda CB 750F2
Year
1977
Engine
Air cooled, transverse four cylinder, four stroke, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder.
Capacity
736
Bore x Stroke 61 х 63 mm
Compression Ratio 9.0:1
Induction
4x 28mm keihin carbs.
Ignition / Starting
CDI / electric
Max Power
70 hp @ 9500 rpm
Max Torque
Transmission / Drive
5 Speed / chain
Front Suspension
Telehydraulic forks
Rear Suspension
Swingarm with 5-way spring preload adjustment.
Front Brakes
2x 276mm discs
Rear Brakes
Single 296mm disc
Front Tyre
3.25 H19
Rear Tyre
4.00 H18
Wet-Weight
233 kg
Fuel Capacity
15 Litres
Consumption average
45.3 mp/g
Standing ¼ Mile
13.5 sec / 101.6 mp/h
Top Speed
124.6 mp/h
Hmmmm... well it looks like the CB750 should take the stock T500...
If you had expansion chambers and a good port job it certainly would turn the tables on a stock CB750 though.... I didn't see you mention chambers tho, maybe the porting is doing it for you.
How's the power below 4,000 rpm?
If you were a little closer I've got a parts GT550 that has a decent looking front end on it. Make any trips to MN for anything?
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interesting...
i like your comparison there..
i should have mentioned, the area we were in you couldnt really flogg the bikes past 70- 80 mph without taking a chance on launching your machine off of the road.. especially the much much heavier cb750's!
but like the old saying goes - a win.. is a win , is a win , is a win!
i dont think i would like to try those 750's on a open highway, but on short straights, with twisty streets and the grey haired citizens rolling around in the traffic here in town - i got 'em!!!!
to answer your question - the bike seems plenty torquey below 4k, it really really surprised me the first couple times out on it..
and - im not planning any trips to minnesota or Canada some time soon, would you be interested in boxing some things up and getting money for threm without having to deal with eGay? let me know bud , would much rather send you some money than to some anonymous gripe on ebay - plus everything cost an arm and a nut on there these days.. let me know if you will part with the front end, and what you want for it bud... ( plus some compensation for the hassle and gas money - we are at nearly $5 a gallon for diesel down here) if it isnt something you want to get rid of, i will understand.. so no worries, just tell it like it is and lets see if it works out! i just figured it wouldnt hurt to ask..
thanks for the comments bud, been a big help! DFB
i should have mentioned, the area we were in you couldnt really flogg the bikes past 70- 80 mph without taking a chance on launching your machine off of the road.. especially the much much heavier cb750's!
but like the old saying goes - a win.. is a win , is a win , is a win!
i dont think i would like to try those 750's on a open highway, but on short straights, with twisty streets and the grey haired citizens rolling around in the traffic here in town - i got 'em!!!!
to answer your question - the bike seems plenty torquey below 4k, it really really surprised me the first couple times out on it..
and - im not planning any trips to minnesota or Canada some time soon, would you be interested in boxing some things up and getting money for threm without having to deal with eGay? let me know bud , would much rather send you some money than to some anonymous gripe on ebay - plus everything cost an arm and a nut on there these days.. let me know if you will part with the front end, and what you want for it bud... ( plus some compensation for the hassle and gas money - we are at nearly $5 a gallon for diesel down here) if it isnt something you want to get rid of, i will understand.. so no worries, just tell it like it is and lets see if it works out! i just figured it wouldnt hurt to ask..
thanks for the comments bud, been a big help! DFB
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What dampers are these
I pulled my 76 GT buffalos forks down to change the seals and in the process of speed, change out the lower dampers for ones i modified with one bleed hole blocked.
So i get them out of these forks and i notice they are different than the ones i have, about an inch longer in length and with a floating aluminum piston kept on with a circlip.
So since im now thinking,, damn ill have to put these back in cause in my mind the ones i took out and modded from some other 76 legs i have must be wrong.
Ok so theres no upgraded parts to fit now, and it will have to do as is with these original rods, so soon the bikes back together and im fitting new brake lines, then i notice they look too short.
Sooo whys that then, since they are the correct stock model items. Hmmm,,,,, now im seeing that both wheels are on the ground when the bikes on the centre stand,,,,,then it dawns on me FINALLY.
Wake to hell up Allan,,, you had the CORRECT 76 model dampers that you didnt put in, THESE ones that were in the bike you thought are correct are the wrong ones,, AND you put them back in.....DUHHHHH.
The longer dampers are letting the forks drop down too far and allowing both wheels to touch the ground, PLUS straining the brake lines,, not good at all.
Ok now i'll just have to change them out when i return for the correct shorter ones next month.
However im still in a quandry as the parts books no help with a visual reference,,, especially if you have never seen the item firsthand.
Soooo what rods are these that i have with aluminum pistons and are about an inch longer.
Can they be 73,74 or 75 model dampers????? anyone know or dealt with this situation before??? and yes i do now need some 76 or 77 damper rods too.. anyone got a spare set they care to part with,,,,,
The joys of overzealous people who modify items for the sake of doing nothing but create more work for other owners later on.
So i get them out of these forks and i notice they are different than the ones i have, about an inch longer in length and with a floating aluminum piston kept on with a circlip.
So since im now thinking,, damn ill have to put these back in cause in my mind the ones i took out and modded from some other 76 legs i have must be wrong.
Ok so theres no upgraded parts to fit now, and it will have to do as is with these original rods, so soon the bikes back together and im fitting new brake lines, then i notice they look too short.
Sooo whys that then, since they are the correct stock model items. Hmmm,,,,, now im seeing that both wheels are on the ground when the bikes on the centre stand,,,,,then it dawns on me FINALLY.
Wake to hell up Allan,,, you had the CORRECT 76 model dampers that you didnt put in, THESE ones that were in the bike you thought are correct are the wrong ones,, AND you put them back in.....DUHHHHH.
The longer dampers are letting the forks drop down too far and allowing both wheels to touch the ground, PLUS straining the brake lines,, not good at all.
Ok now i'll just have to change them out when i return for the correct shorter ones next month.
However im still in a quandry as the parts books no help with a visual reference,,, especially if you have never seen the item firsthand.
Soooo what rods are these that i have with aluminum pistons and are about an inch longer.
Can they be 73,74 or 75 model dampers????? anyone know or dealt with this situation before??? and yes i do now need some 76 or 77 damper rods too.. anyone got a spare set they care to part with,,,,,
The joys of overzealous people who modify items for the sake of doing nothing but create more work for other owners later on.
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They must be Y model or K model!!!!
74 is different than 75/6 according to the parts book, but I don't know what the difference is. 74 is definitely not aluminum piston on the damper shaft. I have two sets of 74 here, one modded and one stock and they are both steel shafts. The poor pics I have of the 76 I restored appear also to be steel.
TZ and RD damper rod looks similar to a GT but they come in both steel and aluminum pistons varieties.
Kawasaki triples used both steel shaft with phenolic ring and aluminum shaft with aluminum piston.
Are the damper rods steel or Aluminum and do they have a phenolic piston ring or a floating aluminum piston at the top?
74 is different than 75/6 according to the parts book, but I don't know what the difference is. 74 is definitely not aluminum piston on the damper shaft. I have two sets of 74 here, one modded and one stock and they are both steel shafts. The poor pics I have of the 76 I restored appear also to be steel.
TZ and RD damper rod looks similar to a GT but they come in both steel and aluminum pistons varieties.
Kawasaki triples used both steel shaft with phenolic ring and aluminum shaft with aluminum piston.
Are the damper rods steel or Aluminum and do they have a phenolic piston ring or a floating aluminum piston at the top?
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Ok maybe i need to explain myself a bit better in detail as i didnt fill in all the other info.
These forks on this bike are 76/77 GT model complete for sure with the rubber top caps and circlips feature, and so are the legs and outer tubes, its the piston damper rods that i notice are different.
Even the Suzuki piston rings are a direct fit, and for the sake of sounding a bit obvious they look like suzuki ones in overall style.
I have a set of 74 forks which im going to pull and check those dampers to see if they might be the ones i found in these forks.
If they are not those ones, then that will only leave a 73 or 75 set of dampers for comparison.
These longer rods are steel and look like the 76 rods in shape and style but are about an inch longer, the piston is aluminum and floats laterally in a recess at the top around the locating circlip, this floating piston feature i can see is for 100% alignment in the stancion bore.
The Suzuki piston ring fits onto it perfectly, but because the damper rod is longer it allows the fork lower legs to drop down more on its full extension like when the bikes on the centre stand.
These forks on this bike are 76/77 GT model complete for sure with the rubber top caps and circlips feature, and so are the legs and outer tubes, its the piston damper rods that i notice are different.
Even the Suzuki piston rings are a direct fit, and for the sake of sounding a bit obvious they look like suzuki ones in overall style.
I have a set of 74 forks which im going to pull and check those dampers to see if they might be the ones i found in these forks.
If they are not those ones, then that will only leave a 73 or 75 set of dampers for comparison.
These longer rods are steel and look like the 76 rods in shape and style but are about an inch longer, the piston is aluminum and floats laterally in a recess at the top around the locating circlip, this floating piston feature i can see is for 100% alignment in the stancion bore.
The Suzuki piston ring fits onto it perfectly, but because the damper rod is longer it allows the fork lower legs to drop down more on its full extension like when the bikes on the centre stand.
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Allan,
That all makes sense, but what the heck are they out of?
Just as a point of reference, 74 (L) has steel damper rods with pressed on pistons and are 173mm long +/-1mm
RD and TZ Yamahas look very similar but they do not have the piston ring and are about an inch or so longer and are aluminum.
I sold the 76(A) so I don't have those to measure.
That all makes sense, but what the heck are they out of?
Just as a point of reference, 74 (L) has steel damper rods with pressed on pistons and are 173mm long +/-1mm
RD and TZ Yamahas look very similar but they do not have the piston ring and are about an inch or so longer and are aluminum.
I sold the 76(A) so I don't have those to measure.
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Richard, ACCORDING to the parts book, the 74 damper rods are the same as the 76 by the part number, soooooo tomorrow ill pull those 74 forks apart to see what i find in them.
Also interestingly enough is the fact there are also some aluminum spacers tubes about inch and a half long on top of the springs to raise the ride height of the bike as well, these are not shown as standard fitting on the 76 forks.
It seems someone was attempting to do things in some sort of fashion to alter these forks in the past, pity they missed the fact you need to tighten the damper rod allen bolts, as these ones were just handtightened in.
Just try to pop a wheelie and watch the lower legs fall out,,,,yikes.
Also interestingly enough is the fact there are also some aluminum spacers tubes about inch and a half long on top of the springs to raise the ride height of the bike as well, these are not shown as standard fitting on the 76 forks.
It seems someone was attempting to do things in some sort of fashion to alter these forks in the past, pity they missed the fact you need to tighten the damper rod allen bolts, as these ones were just handtightened in.
Just try to pop a wheelie and watch the lower legs fall out,,,,yikes.
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Those spacers are not stock, so I suspect that a PO was trying to raise the front end - a semi-chopper perhaps.
As for front forks falling apart. That happened to Aussie Dennis Neil at Bathurst on a CB100R Honda. The sliders came off as he wheelied over a rise on the fastest part of the track. As the front end came back down, the bare fork legs dug in and the bike self destructed. Didn't do the rider a whole lot of favors either. he did survive.
So make sure your forks are together properly if you plan on doing wheelies at 165mph!
As for front forks falling apart. That happened to Aussie Dennis Neil at Bathurst on a CB100R Honda. The sliders came off as he wheelied over a rise on the fastest part of the track. As the front end came back down, the bare fork legs dug in and the bike self destructed. Didn't do the rider a whole lot of favors either. he did survive.
So make sure your forks are together properly if you plan on doing wheelies at 165mph!
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I pulled the 74 forks i have and as the parts book shows the damper rods are the same as the 76 models (well the correct stock ones anyway) and as you said Richard about 173mm long +/- 1mm on average.
The fork springs are also identical in length and style as the 76s, although the parts book shows a last number change which usually is regarded as a styling change.
Whatever it is, i cant see anything different and so ill use these 74 model ones in the altered 76 forks and possibly remove the top aluminum collars.
The fork springs are also identical in length and style as the 76s, although the parts book shows a last number change which usually is regarded as a styling change.
Whatever it is, i cant see anything different and so ill use these 74 model ones in the altered 76 forks and possibly remove the top aluminum collars.
