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Everything you want to know about oil but were "afraid to ask"!

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Admin
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Post by Admin »

I ran Champion Synthetic oil @ 50 to 1 in my KTM's for years, I don't think I ever fouled a plug unless I flooded the motor or something. Champion used to be Duralube Waterpumper oil, recomended by KTM in the 80's, used that before they changed the name. I tried a half gallon of Maxima Super M, worst carbon buildup on the powervalve I ever saw, none with Champion. Next dirtbike I get will probably get Pennzoil @ 32 to 1.
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Post by Admin »

Terry,

Castrol is a brand of oil and can be run safely if you use the correct one.

Castor Oil which is a Castor Bean based oil will gum up the combustion chamber on any engine that is not torn down regularly and cleaned out, like racing karts motors, dirt bikes that get torn down a lot, etc. It works well in high reving motors that have to come apart all the time anyway. My Yamaha Kt100 kart motors had to be rebuilt about ever 6 or 8 hours of run time anyway because they turned 15,000 + RPM every lap on the track, and Castor Bean Oil (or a blend of Castor Bean and other stuff)worked well. It smells good though! :lol:

Wayne
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Post by Admin »

I run 40-1 in my KX250 but the mfg calls for 32-1. According to the test, all things being the same, I would gain power buy running 32-1 so I may go to that in my KX, Kawasaki engineers should know better than I.

Wayne, you posted while I was typing.

Castrol and Castor, I don't read to thorughly...lol Now this makes more sense. The artical said "it would go bad by next week" I kept re-reading and didn't see the difference. :oops: :oops:
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Post by Admin »

TLRam1 wrote:
If you have oil from a company who recommends a 50-1 do you run 50-1 over what the mfg, recommends for their motor?
the amsoil bottle states that it meets or exceeds mfg recommendations, amsoils has a 50:1 and a 100:1, ive never run the 100:1, but a buddy of mine put it in his kids PW50 and it ran like new the entire time he owned it, it was oil injected, it smoked a bit at startup but then the smoke virtually disappeared when it was warm. i had 0 problems with 50:1 in my YZ, im going to try it on my 1971 evinrude 50 this summer but first im gonna pull the heads and take a look inside im probably the 50th owner of my boat, and the motor doesn't look touched. (i do carry a set of spare plugs on the water all the time but haven't used them yet)
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Post by Admin »

vince69007 wrote:
TLRam1 wrote:
If you have oil from a company who recommends a 50-1 do you run 50-1 over what the mfg, recommends for their motor?
the amsoil bottle states that it meets or exceeds mfg recommendations, amsoils has a 50:1 and a 100:1, ive never run the 100:1, but a buddy of mine put it in his kids PW50 and it ran like new the entire time he owned it, it was oil injected, it smoked a bit at startup but then the smoke virtually disappeared when it was warm. i had 0 problems with 50:1 in my YZ, im going to try it on my 1971 evinrude 50 this summer but first im gonna pull the heads and take a look inside im probably the 50th owner of my boat, and the motor doesn't look touched. (i do carry a set of spare plugs on the water all the time but haven't used them yet)
Vince, do a little research before selecting an oil for the 'Rude. Your best bet would be to run the actual Evinrude oil, as whats good for the bike isn't necessarily good for the outboard. Different motors and runtime environments, different requirements. Quite a bit of material addressing this on the net. Back to scoots, anyone know what ratio Zook oil injection works out to?
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Is there a difference between Engine Oil an Transmission Oil

Post by Admin »

I keep seeing every one type about Trany oil using the GL5 80w-90. In my book is says GTX Oil for engine, I know the 2 stroke oil goes in the the mixer tank, but the actual engine oil is still just the GL5 correct?

Was the GTX much thicker back in the day as opposed to now?

The engine has one oil fill port on top what goes in there???? That port feeds both the clutch chamber and the internal drive shaft and gear selectors, Correct?

thanks
Brian
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Is there a difference between Engine Oil an Transmission Oil

Post by Admin »

I keep seeing every one type about Trany oil using the GL5 80w-90. In my book is says GTX Oil for engine, I know the 2 stroke oil goes in the the mixer tank, but the actual engine oil is still just the GL5 correct?

Was the GTX much thicker back in the day as opposed to now?

The engine has one oil fill port on top what goes in there???? That port feeds both the clutch chamber and the internal drive shaft and gear selectors, Correct?

thanks
Brian
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Post by Admin »

In 2strokes engine there are two separate and somewhat different needs of lubricants: 1) engine oil is intended as the oil that lubricates piston, sleeve, crankshaft and crankshaft bearings; this oil is the so said "2stroke oil", it MUST be put in the oil tank in case of separate lubrication or fuel mixed otherwise. 2) gear oil is the one you MUST put in the engine crankcase to lubricate gears and clutch, these oils in the 80-90 range are of the EP type (Extreme Pressure), specifically made for the effort a gear train is called for.
Keep in mind that in the 2stroke engine the gear/clutch components are independent from the piston/crankshaft units, so DO NOT fill oil tank with gear oil and viceversa.
GTX oil was one of the 4stroke oils (same oil that lubricate upper termic and lower gear), good compromise at the time and according to the Suzuki directives; today's gear oils are way more effective/protective.
Hope my explanation would be sufficient altough my poor english :roll:
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Post by Admin »

There is better knowledge on this board than mine, but it would facilitate a response if we knew what year, make & model.

I think the current wisdom with a Suzi smoker that the better tranny lube is 80-90 GL 4 or 5 rather than the original book recommended GTX.

There is still made the Suzuki CCI that was originally recommended; it works for me. There are other exoctics and/or synthetics such as Amsol Injector, Pennzoil, etc. This goes into the "tank", as you say. Other than that, your question escapes me.

Ed
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Post by Admin »

First, I have to clear up something before someone misunderstands what is being said. Engine oil for these bikes goes in a tank under the seat and it's 2 stroke oil. Transmission oil goes in the transmission and is put in through the cap in the clutch cover or in the cases just behind the clutch cover. This is NOT the crankcase. There is NO oil in the crankcase other than what is injected through the oil pump that is fed from the tank under the seat.

That said...

Transmission oil was originally either 10W30 or 10W40 (Castrol GTX). That was fine in the 70's. However, modern 10W30 or 10W40 have a lot of friction modifiers to make them very slippery, so this makes them very good lubricants, but very bad for the clutch. GL5 is a popular replacement and will do no harm at all. Personally, I use Belray Gearsaver. It costs a little more than the GL5, but I've had good results with it and it is designed for motorcycle transmissions and wet clutches.

As for 2 stroke engine oil, I use Suzuki CCI. These old motors were designed for basic 2 stroke oil and don't really benefit from synthetics or high priced oils. I put 27000+ miles on my 1972 H2 using CCI before I had to replace a piston. There was no oil related failure...the piston just broke. You could still see the crosshatch in the cylinder when I replaced the piston at Deals Gap last May.
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Post by Admin »

Jeff G wrote:in the cases just behind the clutch cover. This is NOT the crankcase. There is NO oil in the crankcase
You are right, pardon, I would mean just that.
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Post by Admin »

Deleted, I didn't see the other post.
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Post by Admin »

Awesome,thanks guys, that is what i thought, but the terminology that some people were using as i read old threads was confusing me. :grin:
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Lets talk about 2 strok oil

Post by Admin »

ok i have stripped my engine 3 times now and i have replaces all the seals and o-rings, i am damn sure i do not have any leaks! my smoke is now alot more consistant, but still feel it is a bit excessive.

Are there different weight 2 stroke oils?

If so will thiner oils move throught the oil mixer faster resulting in more smoke?

I have been using a basic 2 castrol 2 stroke oil.

If i disconnect the oil mixer and do a pre mix test in my tank is that bad? can i go back to regular gas only after that with out cleaning the pet cock and carbs?

sorry alot of questions, but i have been messing with this problem for months

thanks
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Post by Admin »

Some two-stroke oils are concentrated, and not for injector pumps, but they will say that on the label. If you're using castor-based oils, get used to the smoke and the carbon...it's a fact of life. If the smoke bothers you, look for an "ash-free" oil. They will smoke the least.



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