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Everything you want to know about oil but were "afraid to ask"!

Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan

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Admin
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Post by Admin »

Tuner, I wasn't there and I have no reason to doubt you. A747 at 24;1 sounds good to me. It's what I run in my 375E.

I should have mentioned that the article I was referencing was actually by Phil Schilling, although the late great not necessarily infallible Jennings seems to have been very involved.
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Post by Admin »

Yup, the other one from the mags, along with cook Neilsen. Thrill Schilling. Cooker P. was a fast guy on his Ducati, as Gordon wasn't involved with it, and Phil didn't do any work on it, it was a Scuderia Ducati bike.

You really had to be there for all that business, it was truely interesting, reading what those guys were doing to turn so very much fairly nice stuff into instant junk, and realizing you watched it as it happened as well. Each month, we got to read/re-live the horror of "How We Turned a Perfectly Good Race Engine Into a Mushroom Cloud in 3 Easy Tuning Disasters".

Gordon never did grasp the true concept that two stroke oils mixed in fuels seriously lower the fuel's octane, and too much oil just kills the octane. I know for a fzact that Gordon tried to get the TZ to run on Castrol R 30 at 16:1 at one point, and for at least three AMA Nationals, mark didn't even get out of the pits from oil fouled spark plugs, as Gordon just kept putting hotter and hotter plugs in the engine, over and over again. It was really gruesome to watch. The ONLY good thing about that was at Loudon, Gordon had THE very best MOSQUITO ABATEMENT SPRAYER IN THE PITS, BAR NONE. He'd fire the bike up, and mosquitos in a 25 foot radius would drop right out of the air, doornail dead. We heard a bike runing one day, but couldn't see it from the oil cloud. When it stopped making smoke, and the air blew the smoke away, there was Gordon, on another tuning nightmare adventure, glassy eyed and mumbling to himself.
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T500 Tranny oil

Post by Admin »

I have a T500J and the service manual says Castrol GTX in the trans.
What are you guys using

Cheers
Admin
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Post by Admin »

I use Belray Gear Saver.If I can't find that any GL-3 or -4 Rated 80w-90 will work.
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Post by Admin »

I use GL5-rated gear lube. It's made for limited-slip differentials; basically gear boxes with friction plates.....just like our trannies. WOrks great, and not expensive. You can use Bel-Ray if you want, but it's basically the same thing with the price jacked up.


Lane
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Post by Admin »

Don't use GTX, it's friction modified which is not a graet idea for the clutch.
As Jug says GL4 gearbox oil 80w-90 or even 75W-80 depending on where you live and the expected temp range
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Post by Admin »

Oops meant to say GL5 in preference to GL4.. :oops: :oops:
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Post by Admin »

Thanks Guys your input is appreciated

Cheers

John
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I have a bad smoking habit!!!

Post by Admin »

I just finished rebuilding my 1972 t-500 and i am still smoking very heavily on the left side. I have been reading about the oil questions everyone has posted and could it be the oil i used is too thin? I used the GTX, but for some reason i think it was a 10w 40. from what i read this is way thin as i see everyone is suggesting the GL5 Gearbox oil 80w90. The gear box and clutch basket oil sections use the same fill point correct. sounds like a stupid question, but the way people talk about it make me second guess myself. I am pretty sure my seal are good inside, i have no external leaks.

This is the first bike i ever stripped down and rebuilt. everything works and sounds good, just a lot of Blue smoke. My 2 stroke oil is Blue, could the injector be pumping too much of that oil?
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Post by Admin »

It is possible for the oil pump to overfeed a cylinder. One of our members just got past that same problem. It is also possible that one of your oil seals by the center main bearing is leaking tranny oil into the left crankcase.

A crankcase pressure/vacuum test will tell whether it's a seal or not. That's what I would do next.


Lane
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Post by Admin »

A crankcase pressure/vacuum test is that the same as putting the pressure gage screwed into the spark plug spot and reading the pressure? What pressure is a good reading?
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Post by Admin »

The intake and exhaust ports are sealed off, and the piston is positioned so that the ports are open.

Then if it holds a six lb/in2 pressure for six minutes AND a six inches of Hg vacuum for six minutes, then the seals are good. If the seals are bad, there will be a pressure change.
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Post by Admin »

thanks for the good description. I will try to sort out tools need to do the test.

Any one in Souther California that works on t-500's? I have been shut down at most places as soon as i say 2 stroke.
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Post by Admin »

My advice, do it yourself.

This site has alot of good general advice.

http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm

Here's an example of a leak down tester:

http://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/art ... ?id=190479
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Post by Admin »

Bri,

Welcome to the board! Hope we can help.

Look for a "mom & pop" dirt bike shop and unless the "tree-huggers" have driven them all out already, there should be someone there that can wrench on a T500. Failing that, go to www.ahrma.org or the WERA board:

http://forums.13x.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=12

and you should be able to find someone that works on 2 strokes. Search our member list for Desmocat and see if he has some suggestions for you.

In the meantime, you can build your own pressure test equipment for about $20 that will tell you pretty quickly if you have a failed crank seal. I posted this a couple of times and the only thing I would change is to build block off plates for both the intake and exhausts rather then fooling with an expansion plug:

http://vancouver.globat.com/~sundialmot ... ssure+test

Jim
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