Archived Posts

[Admin]

the smoke does not bother me, but i have never seen another t-500 so not sure how much smoke is too much. should i be leaving a steady stream down the street when i take off like a bat out of hell?

[Admin]

Yeah until it get Warmed up.I would try Switching to Suzuki CCI or Valvoline TCW3.Like lane said you better get used to Carbon Build up with Castor Based Oils.

Have you Tried Adjusting the Pump?

[Admin]

...If i disconnect the oil mixer and do a pre mix test in my tank is that bad? can i go back to regular gas only after that with out cleaning the pet cock and carbs?...
thanks

Suzuki oil injection systems are the only source of lubrication for the crankshaft main bearings. Do not disconnect the oil pump.

[Admin]

Castrol is a brand name and most of their products are not castor bean based, so unless you are using their bean oil Castrol should be OK.

Most of these bikes smoke a lot when first starrted but clear up after they have awarmed up and been run through the gears a few times. If the bike has been setting up for a while, it make take a while to burn all the residual oil out, so it make smoke badly for a few days. Give it some time and wind it up a little to see if it will finally clear up.

I would not use bean oil unless you plan to tear it down and clean the crap out of the combustion chamber real often, it makes a mess.

Wayne

[Admin]

When my bike runs.... At first it smokes a lot, then barely when fully warmed up. I don't know what oil was in the tank when I first got it, now it should be pumping Pennzoil 2 stroke. So far it smokes less at a cold start-up and virtually goes away after it warms up. I have not been able to take it on the road for a good long ride, but for all of the 15 - 30 minutes of third and short fourth gear runs, both plugs have a dry and slightly black color on the insulator. No hint of fouling or any oil related problems. I used to use Castrol exclusively in my 1973 TS100 with very good performance. I put about 25k on that little bike before I sold it when I traded up to a 1978 GS400.

[Admin]

The Pennzoil semi-synthetic two-stroke is what I've been using for a couple of years. It's been very good, but it doesn't have a nice smell!


Lane

[Admin]

I'm about to fire up my bike soon, so I need to figure out what to put in the tranny. Manual says 20W40 but after reading this post, I'm leaning towards the gear oil. What's the difference between GL4 and GL5, I read somewhere that GL4 is more specific to bronze bushings which my transmission has. Also, what is the difference in viscosity between 20W40 engine oil and 80W90 gear oil??? Somehow I get the impression that 80W90 would be thicker. Thanks...Fred

[Admin]

Retsoo, go with the gear oil for your tranny. Do NOT/NOT/NOT use modern engine oil with the "Energy Conserving" doughnut logo on the back or front of the bottle. This will do BAD things to your clutch, as mentioned by other posters.
Here's a viscosity chart comparing the different grades of oil rated according to different types of oils. This chart is courtesy of Shell Canada and is to be used solely for your own information.
Whooops....no linky in the first post.
Here it is:


If anyone needs help interpreting this chart just send me a PM and I'll try to sort things out for you.
If you don't already have my (in)famous two stroke tranny oil treatise, send me a PM with your email addy and I'll send it on to you instanter.

[Admin]

Bri, there are a lot better injector oils on the market than Castrol's basic sludge that they sell. It has mega non-combustibles in it and that's what's giving you major smoke. Any semi-synthetic or full synthetic injector oil will work well in these old pounders.

[Admin]

ive got a case of amsoil thats the T500 is just waiting to spit out of the pipe LoL. so i need to worry about residual oil thats in the system from the dyno oil thats in there? or can i just drain the tank and fill it with the synth?

[Admin]

You can just drain the tank and fill it back up. All modern synthetics are compatable with dino.


Lane

[Admin]

cool, thanks. and now to use the search feature to find the prime procedure and print it out, unless someone has it ready for printing already?

sorry for the hijack

[Admin]

The check valves are integral with the pump outlets and are part of the pump,of which it is said 'One should never be tempted to take apart,relace only... if suspect' and that is probably very wise. The pump always needs to be bled if disconnected starting by removing the main check valve which take note! is a left hand thread!! then using a pipette prime the orifice and wait until all bubbles have popped out,which should be fairly rapid and oil seeps out without air,then replace the check valve.Loosen the four banjos at the crankcase,one side at a time and use a good size syringe (no needle) to force air from the oil lines until they are as full as you can get them and no appreciable air pockets visible Then put all banjos back on and tighten while supporting them so they don't tend to twist as you do.(Old lines can easily fracture if twisted too much and then you have a new problem) Run the engine at about 1500 plus rpm and watch for any remaining air pockets to disappear into the engine (it's a pulsing motion) and then everything should be OK. After that the only thingleft to do is set up the throttles in synch and adjust the oil pump cable so that the marks on the lever line up with the marks on the lug on the pump at full throttle. Bear in mind that the marks were put on during manufacture and were designed for 2 stroke oil available at the time. Modern oils such as Bel Ray S2-2 are much more efficient so you may have to throttle back the oil pump output using the cable adjuster bit by bit until you have it where it doesn,t smoke like a chimney but emits a slightly visible haze. Don't overdo it..a litle bit of smoke is preferable to none at all. We all know what happens if you cut back so much there is no haze!!

[Admin]

I am talking about T500M oil systems btw........some other models have a bleed screw in the pump.

[Admin]

Just wondering what you guys recommend to use for fork oil!

Think it hasnt been changed on mine for a few decades and should probably be done

Let me know!