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Sundial Moto Sports • View topic - T500 oil line repair?
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 Post subject: T500 oil line repair?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 5:00 pm 
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On the street

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I have 2 sets of oil lines and they both seem to have leaks. Not getting solid flow out of the pump. I replaced all the seals in the pump, but getting spotty flow thru the lines and leakage on the engine.

Is there a tried and true way to fix leaky spots on these oil lines?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 5:23 pm
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Easiest is to get new ones.

If you have spotty flow, check the screen in the Oil Tank Sump drain (It sticks up inside the tank) and be sure the tank bowl and feed line are clear and does not have a check valve in it. (Or that check valve isn't frozen)

There is some debate on check valves, but on CCI / Posi-Force, the only place they are truly necessary is at the motor end.

On the lines themselves, clear them with gas in a syringe (so you can pressurize) or carb cleaner.

Be aware the plastic lines get brittle with age. If you decide to patch them, get similar tubing with an ID the same as the OD if the lines. Slit a patch section. Get it over the suspected leak/crack area and glue in place using a gap-filling super glue. Alternatively, cut out the broken section and patch with a non-slit section of tubing to fit over the ends.

or you can make new lines...on the engine end, you can get new banjo fitting / check valves from Kawasaki #16128-009 and make your own lines from commercial plastic/pneumatic tubing and quick release fittings. There are even 1 to 2 in-line (not a T) fittings available. Problem is, most of this tubing is black, blue, or yellow and you cannot see bubbles or confirm flow easily. On the plus side, these lines are flexible and easily routed.

Whenever you use check valves, confirm the flow direction.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:17 am 
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To the on ramp
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Location: Greendale Vic, Australia
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Jacko (Pro mech who's been dealing with these ever since they were new) recently found one of his little banjo bolt sealing washers on the pump not sealing correctly, -it was sucking air in at the joint. (And it was his own GT500 too!)
This bloke has seen it all, but even so, he was fooled. (Still crazy after all these years...)
Don't overlook the obvious -It was just a bad sealing washer. (But don't be tempted to overtighten these little things, too easy to shear one, and then the REAL trouble starts).


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:05 am 
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Moto GP
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The stat-o-seal washers work well & are reasonably priced. I get them from McMasters.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:03 pm 
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What size are these washers?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:32 pm 
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M6

_________________
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more

Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 project & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:38 am 
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Thanks Jabcb!! Got those washers, fixed a leak on the left side line at the joint and i am all good!! No leaks, good flow and the bike runs GREAT!!!


:)


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2020 11:32 am 
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Still in the Driveway

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Can anyone shed any more light on the fittings needed to make my own oil pump lines on my T500 such as further info on oil line size needed and more info on the 1 into 2 fitting and pressure fittings? Has anyone here done this build before?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2020 12:13 am 
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It's always nice if you introduce yourself before asking for things. Just who you are, which bit of the world you inhabit and a bit of biking/engine repair history.
Not much use giving you technical answers if you don't understand is it?

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