8 petal Polaris reed intakes

Getting your blazingly fast Suzuki powerplant to perform even better!

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tz375
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Post by tz375 »

JA,

My bad on the H1/H2 mix up. Is that an EBOS motor that we're talking about?

I'd be very interested to learn more about how they achieved those numbers. (I guess others would too). Is that a high RPM motor or "just" a time-area approach? A boost port helps with transfer area, but that beast must have either a very high port or a bridge or maybe both.

I must check up on that KR port shape. Interestingly Suzuki straighted theirs up with the XR20.

Thanks for that info.
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Post by ja-moo »

tz375 wrote:JA,

My bad on the H1/H2 mix up. Is that an EBOS motor that we're talking about?

No, it's a Darren Abrams design (Laurens Race)

I'd be very interested to learn more about how they achieved those numbers. (I guess others would too). Is that a high RPM motor or "just" a time-area approach?

Well, he is a tuner, so information is limited.. :wink: And I think it's a high 9000 rpm motor. And it's real dyno numbers, he is up to 234 or so hp now.

A boost port helps with transfer area, but that beast must have either a very high port or a bridge or maybe both.

He does have bridged port liners.

I must check up on that KR port shape. Interestingly Suzuki straighted theirs up with the XR20.

It's old tech, so the trade-offs probably went back and forth.....

Thanks for that info.
Visiting from the "K" camp...........
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Suzukidave
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Post by Suzukidave »

Kris , its my fault i havent run the Arctic Cat setup yet so that if i do get the Polaris setup together and i should decide to run it , i will still leave together the Arctic Cat reed engine and just put together another engine for the Polaris reed cylinder . As far as what was easier to put in i would say the Polaris so far ( but i am not done yet :roll:) also being i now have been here before its not as much like " new ground " . There is still question if the reeds will work well like this but Bretts land speed trials cylinder ran them vert .. all 6 set of them :shock: Image
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Polarus vs. Artic Cat

Post by Kris Bernstein »

Thanks for sharing Dave, Either way I think it makes sense to run the reeds vertical in the GT blocks as left and center are so bloody close together. Will have to weld that bridge when I come to it.
Sending the head off today for removable squish band inserts. No time, what with the day job and all to do the work myself. Three street Ducati's and two Yamaha racers to get completed whilst the Seeley GT gathers a larger pile of bits...
How the Hell do you add pictures to these posts?????
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Post by Suzukidave »

Like this Image
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Post by Suzukidave »

Kris , if you could reduce the size of your pictures on the Photp Bucket account just a little . Just pick the picture you want to post to the list with the mouse , a list will drop down from the picture . Scroll down to the " img " selection and click on it , the url will high light blue then just copy n paste to the Sundial post . It only takes seconds to do .
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Post by Suzukidave »

Kris , there wasnt any problem fitting up the Arctic Cat 6 petal reed boxes flat across as there is plenty of room for these you just couldnt get in to the bore any closer than the cylinder stud passageways plus i used adapters to fit up the boxes to the block . Image
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Kris Bernstein
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Adaptoers?

Post by Kris Bernstein »

When you say you used "adapters" to fit the reed boxes to the cylinder, what do you mean?
Will try to post pictures but don't laugh at my feeble attempts!

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Post by Suzukidave »

I used 1/2" plate to bridge the uneven surface on the intake side , i did all the porting first and then had the adapters welded to the block and then welded the reed boxes to the adapters . Then i went back in and smoothed it all back out . Image
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More Pix of Seeley GT/TR bits

Post by Kris Bernstein »

http://s638.photobucket.com/albums/uu10 ... Bernstein/

Posted pictures of GT/TR750 cylinder spacer plate, Elictrix World CDI ignition and Schitzu cockpit gauges.
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Suzukidave
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Post by Suzukidave »

Nice job they did on your block , way better than the way my stuff come's out useing a drill press. Kris's milled block Image
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tz375
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Post by tz375 »

Kris,

Nice looking Yamaha TZ fairing sponson. 8)

BTW, is that adapter 5 1/2 degrees inner and outer and if so, do you know if they sell them as a replacement part? I need one to fit a GSXR alternator on my skinny a$$ed GT750 crank nose.
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fairing sponson

Post by Kris Bernstein »

Fairing sponson? Is that what they call those things? Cool!
That fairing sponson has been through the war and back again. Came off of my TZ750 as unusable several lifetimes ago. Funny how bits get recycled as necessity dictates...
Sponson, leave it to the Brits to find proper sounding names for things....a marvelous trait.
Thanks for posting the pic of the block, Dave. Had to pull it off the mill for another assignment, and didn't get the cuts deep enough on the intakes. Am going to honor your thinking on keeping a close eye on water jacket whilst making swarth.
Swarth, another good word....like sponson.
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Post by Suzukidave »

Kris , if you are planning to cut deeper on the intakes a tip is to look down into the intake opening and where you see the intake open into the bore figure about 3/8" above that is where you will break into the water jacket .
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3/8" to hit H20

Post by Kris Bernstein »

Thanks for the tip Dave. As I'll be using only the top ring on the piston,
I plan on trying to limit just over a 1/4 inch of raising the intake port, or just under the BDC where the ring pin might be exposed.
Will mill a bit off the back of the piston to get exactly 360 degrees of intake duration. Thankfully a lot of the bottom of the port can be taken away to spare the piston skirt.
Cannot remember if Ocelot was able to use the stock iron liner as 75mm looks to be pretty close to boring through and hitting aluminum. This might be academic as I intend to use aluminum liners and Nikasil them ultimately.
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