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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 6:25 pm 
Still in the Driveway

Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:16 pm
Posts: 2
Country: Finland
Bikes owned: GT550, GT125 X4

I have problems with spark timing. I'm using ohm meter and the "windmill" behind the main plate in adjusting.

Problem is, when left cylinder is OK and right is approximately OK, center cylinder is way too advanced. I can't retard center cylinder plate more.

Before I started adjusting spark advance, I checked point gaps and they were about from 0.35 to 0.4mm each.

Photos: Right Left

PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 10:40 am 
Moto GP
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:43 am
Posts: 3186
Location: Ontario
Country: Canada
Bikes owned: GT750(Jx3,L,M,A,B),T500
Was it working properly before ?

If these are original points, then possibly the heel is worn on one ? And if they are new points then possibly they are not all the same type (OEM vs aftermarket) ? There were also two different types used - Denso and Kokusan - and the breaker cams differ, as do the points themselves although you seem to have a Denso setup. I'm sure a 550 expert will be along shortly with additional suggestions ...... 8)


If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !

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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 10:55 am 
Moto GP
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:47 am
Posts: 6030
Location: Illinois
In addition to those checks, timing is a bit of a compromise. You could for example open or shut the left set of points and re-time the whole plate to get an individual cylinder back in bounds. You could also close the right points slightly to advance the point at which it opens, or you could extend the adjustment slots for the plate or an individual cylinder.

It is also possible that the propeller is in the wrong place. The locating slot is much wider than the pin on which it locates. That's why many of us use a dial gauge until we know for sure where the propeller /windmill marks are. Sometime you get lucky and they are spot on but they are often out by quite a long way.

If you don't have a dial gauge, you can use a degree disk bolted to the alternator rotor. Use a piston stop to get an accurate TDC and go from there.

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