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Information and stories pertaining to racing Suzuki two-strokes. Past and Present.

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Admin
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Road America AHRMA racing

Post by Admin »

Is anybody on this forum going to The races at Road America is June? I am trying to put together a T350 to race in the Novice Historic Production Lightweight class and I was hoping to see some racing bikes to get an idea as to what has to be done to pass tech inspection. I will be there as a spectator. Any help would be great.

kmil
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Post by Admin »

Try R.C. Barker Engineering at 352-378-3715. He advertises in the AHRMA hand book for Dunlop and Avon racing tires. I talked with him once and he seemed like a nice guy.

kmil
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Post by Admin »

We'll be there. Drop by the pits and look for a pair of matching red and blue Honda CB160 based racers wearing RS125 fairings. #356.

Would be happy to chat and show you want needs to be done.

I'd check www.ahrma.org for their rule book. I think that AHRMA is less extensive than say WERA for wire locking, but the rules are easy to follow.
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Post by Admin »

Bob Barker is the guy for Dunlops, but I get my AVON race tires from Rick Merhar at accu-products.com phone: 440-356-1202

He has them drop shipped and pricing is usually very good.

It's a personal choice. AVON are typically slightly cheaper than the KR series Dunlops. KR825 may be slightly stickier than the equivalent AVON but is less good in the rain.

TT600 (or was that 900 ?) street tires available in Australia are half the price and allow my son to hustle around in the top 10 on one of our old TZ's so they are pretty good. Don't know if Bob Barker can get them.

He aslo sells TT100 which look really ancient but I hear that they are now made in the soft GP compound and they are cheap.

teazer
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Post by Admin »

I'll be there as a spectator. Doing basically the same thing, kicking tires, checking things out to see if it's something I want to do in the future. I'm leaning toward a CB350 as an inexpensive entry-level racer but think a T500 would be lots more fun.

FYI they're racing flattrack in Plymouth Friday nite w/a vintage class. Should be fun to watch.
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Post by Admin »

As the VW guys would say, "That crap'll buff out!".


Bummer about your engine, but it was good seeing you at WS.
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Post by Admin »

Thanks for the answers, I'll be sure to look you up TZ375. Looks like I'm going to be delayed with my race bike. The right side big end rod bearing locked up today and I'm looking at a total engine rebuild. Not good for a guy that has no money. I was saving to buy my tires and go to a racing school, now I have to rebuild a motor and I have no idea how much that will cost. I do have a parts bike with a free turning motor though. Maybe I should race my CA160 Honda. Just a joke.


kmil
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Post by Admin »

Sorry to hear about that big end. Dirt track racing is always quite the spectacle.

See you in the pits.

Just had an evil thought. CA160 has 16 inch wheels, so go up to 17 and get some modern race rubber from Japan (they race a few bikes with skinny 17 inch tires), bore it to 56mm, fit a hot cam and bigger carbs and go surprise a lot of riders.

of course, all of the above would cost more than a crank rebuild, but don't let the fasct get in the way of a good story. :lol:
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Post by Admin »

Ralph,

Just a crazy thought, but remember that the rings aren't doing any work down there. I'd wash it out with muriaitic acid and run a hone through it (lightly) and measure it up.

Seriously, low spots down that far will make little difference to how it runs.

Obviously the crank needs to be rebuilt and the overheating problem has to be fixed, and it needs a piston, but don't get too fixated on those nasty looking gouges.
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Post by Admin »

Thanks for the info guys.
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Post by Admin »

Perhaps you should not be running with an oil pump in the first place. Remove the oil slingers and run premix. If I had to guess from the pictures, you've also bought into a higher rev limit than the engine is capable of. Hold it to 8200 and tune for it.

I don't know your carb size, but a hole in the top indicates too lean of a mixture most times. Hard to tell which came first.
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Post by Admin »

The TT100 is not a good choice for a T500. It's best to look for something with a smooth profile. The TT100 is great leaned over for long periods on something that doesn't have a blast of power when straightening up. The T500 will break loose on the way up from a turn in a dramatic way when it comes off of the relatively flat cornering tread of the TT100.
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Post by Admin »

Ralph, I'd offer to do your engines for gratis labor, you buy the parts, but I don't know what you'd think of that offer. It's open to you, should you care to discuss it. PM me if you wish.

I do agree, the engine should be pre-mixed, as the oil pumps for TR500 are different than the standard street bikes. The race oil pump doesn't regulate with a cable, just engine rpm's, and the rest of the engine uses a supplemental 30:1 pre-mix to make up for the loss of overall volume for the race pump. Kawasaki's used this method as well, but ended up removing the oil receivers on the crank and going full pre-mix.
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Post by Admin »

H2RTuner wrote:Ralph, I'd offer to do your engines for gratis labor, you buy the parts, but I don't know what you'd think of that offer. It's open to you, should you care to discuss it. PM me if you wish.
Wow .. thats a heck of a nice offer Tuner :grin:
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Post by Admin »

I do the same for a lot of racers I know, always have, always will.
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