hi
i bought an aftermarket ignition switch only to discover that the 'accessory' circuit for lights is, in fact, missing. Wemoto are just unbelievable. I complained and they just replied 'yeah, well we sold 14 of them and only one other person complained like you and said they were no good'.
My question is this. What are the implications of adding the lighting circuit cables to the EXISTING orange and red cables in the block (which switch the ignition on and off, i presume). Are there any risks there? I'm considering soldering the extra lghting cables onto the rear of the ignition barrel onto the same solder blobs.
thanks for your advice
MJ in Beirut
gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
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- tz375
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Re: gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
You will have to check the pin outs on that switch to see what connects to what in each of the 3 key positions. Compare that to the wiring diagram and let's compare notes.
- Alan H
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Re: gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
It might be down to current carrying capacity why there are two circuits. It would mean ALL power circuits go through one contact. You really need the correct switch and ebay the one you have.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
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Re: gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
im sure i have the correct two pins. But what the the IMPLICATIONS of putting everything through that one circuit?
that's the question, surely?
that's the question, surely?
- jabcb
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Re: gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
Stock, the GT380/GT550 has a 6-wire ignition switch but the GT750 has a 4-wire ignition switch.
Basically Suzuki used two different approaches to deal load capacity & voltage drops for the main wires that power everything on the bike. One way is to use two wires & the other is to use thicker wires.
So it looks like you have a GT750-style switch & need to adapt it for use on a GT380.
As you suggested, you just need to run the two orange wires to one contact & the two red wires to the other.
If you have a good-quality switch, then I wouldn't worry about running all the current through one contact because that works just fine on the GT750.
This might also explain the Webmoto response. They might be selling the same switch for the GT750, GT550 & GT380. Then the GT750 owners would get the switch they expect & the GT380/GT550 would get the wrong switch.
Basically Suzuki used two different approaches to deal load capacity & voltage drops for the main wires that power everything on the bike. One way is to use two wires & the other is to use thicker wires.
So it looks like you have a GT750-style switch & need to adapt it for use on a GT380.
As you suggested, you just need to run the two orange wires to one contact & the two red wires to the other.
If you have a good-quality switch, then I wouldn't worry about running all the current through one contact because that works just fine on the GT750.
This might also explain the Webmoto response. They might be selling the same switch for the GT750, GT550 & GT380. Then the GT750 owners would get the switch they expect & the GT380/GT550 would get the wrong switch.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
- tz375
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Re: gt380 ignition barrel...rewiring an option
Not to pick nits, but that's three threads on basically the same problem from different perspectives.
I just looked at the wiring diagrams and as the other guys have alluded to, you can just splice the reds together and the Oranges together and it will work just fine. Just make sure there are no bare ends exposed.
If you want to be clever and reduce the load through the switches, wire in a relay for the ignition circuit so that the RED power side is permanently wired to +12v from a fused wire from the battery. You could also use relays(s) in the headlight circuit if you felt so inclined. That's how I wired my last GT750 - 3 relays. They are small and cheap. I used Yamaha R1 relays in the headlight until I found the same parts at Eastern Beaver, so now I keep a selection of relays and waterproof connectors on hand.
Do not forget to add fuses though. You can add a small power center/fuse box to protect the circuits. I use a PC8 from Eastern Beaver but there are others.
I just looked at the wiring diagrams and as the other guys have alluded to, you can just splice the reds together and the Oranges together and it will work just fine. Just make sure there are no bare ends exposed.
If you want to be clever and reduce the load through the switches, wire in a relay for the ignition circuit so that the RED power side is permanently wired to +12v from a fused wire from the battery. You could also use relays(s) in the headlight circuit if you felt so inclined. That's how I wired my last GT750 - 3 relays. They are small and cheap. I used Yamaha R1 relays in the headlight until I found the same parts at Eastern Beaver, so now I keep a selection of relays and waterproof connectors on hand.
Do not forget to add fuses though. You can add a small power center/fuse box to protect the circuits. I use a PC8 from Eastern Beaver but there are others.