Suzuki 2 Strokes

so after i found that my left cyl was lacking spark decided to go after HT leads and caps.
after reading some techniques i went out today and took the bracket off and notice no epoxy.

OKAy.... slowly wiggled the leads out and noticed copper cable still in the coil... hmmmmm

continued to find this. copper in the center and right.

also no spike for the new HT leads... ruined my coils...




Maybe ultimately found my issue (becuase the left pulled out clean) but left with a feeling of deception. Not sure if i missed something in the reading. wasnt expecting ruin them. warning.

its your fault Forum... you owe me coils.

Get some copper cored ignition lead and solder the core to the wire still in the coils. With a fine end soldering iron solder a brass screw to the centre of the coil without a spike. You could even solder a brass screw to all 3 so they are all the same. Or just buy some new coils as you were too cruel to the old ones !

Repaired by the forum, you now owe it $1,000,000.

Alan H wrote: as you were too cruel to the old ones !

Repaired by the forum, you now owe it $1,000,000.

ahhaha. thanks.

New coils from Rex Caunt are about $20 each.
He sells ~2 & ~4 ohm coils -- just make sure to get the ~4 ohm coils.

For more info & pics see: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=4824&start=1

yep... just had him send me a new set..

I have not worked on the grey plastic coils yet in regard to replacing the HT leads. The tan coloured ones I've retrofitted never had any issues with the internal pin.
If the centre pulled out its also possible that part was compromised from age or a weakening of that part on that coil.
I've also seen a lot of the grey coils cracked while the tan ones hardly ever crack.

See didn't realize there was a grey and tan coil. I also think there is no pin to add new leads

So it looks like Tan coils have a pin that the HT lead is staked onto and then the HT lead is expoxied in place. The gray coils appear to not have that pin, but the copper wire appears to be soldered in place somehow.

It appears the grey coils are the older type and the tan ones the newer types. Ive seen the grey coils on the older T500s and also on some of the very early GT triples.
The newer style tan coils have a brass pin molded into the body that faces into the hole and the wire was simply pushed into the pin and glued afterwards.
Apparently the grey ones have a stub the wires were soldered to before the molding was formed around it.
I seem to recall a website mentioning carefully cutting the grey coils raised portion off and soldering on a new HT lead to a stub in the back portion of the coil wire hole, then gluing back on the piece.
Given the ease of getting tan coils or new ones on line at Rex Caunt etc, spending time working on the older grey ones is going to be a labour of love.

yah its a 72. and my love is not that great for grey coils... i have never come across a coil that was unable to change leads.

Hopefully this can find its way to someone under the impression they can quick pull the leads out and replace them.

ok got the caunt coils.... got them all mounted and new plugs. kicked over fired up first try... but still nothing left cylinder.
set the plug on the case and kicked it over...... no spark... looks like im moving down the line. i slipped a fine grit between the points and gave a wiggle. still nothing.

ill be grabbing a condensor after work tonight and seeing how that goes. anything else i should check... maybe some key points with the multimeter?

What did you do about having no harness that connects to the Rex Caunt's ? Did you solder your old harness to them ? I'd like to see a pic of them, if possible.

i went to my local electronics place. got 4 feet of orange wire and 4 feet of black wire some spade connecters and pins to go inside the 3x2 connector.

so i didnt re-use anything from the old coils but the plastic 3x2 connector the connects to the bikes main harness.

i can take a picture tonight.

Make sure the orange wire to that coil does not have a faulty connector in the harness socket, if it does you wont get 12 volts.
Also make sure the points are not grounding to the points frame by the pigtail/flag terminal, if so you wont get any spark.
Try swapping condensors first as a test, but you should replace them all if you do not know how old they are.