I've already learned so much just by looking at the posts on here! Allan's tips for cleaning up old harnesses is great, inspired me to start looking at what I need to do. First issue is this...
IMG_1482.jpg
Is this just a matter of splicing on a new spark plug cap wire or does the coil get replaced? Is there a life expectancy to these things? Can I replace one coil and not the other or do they both get replaced? I saw someone on here has been using one for a Harley... are they that interchangeable?
Second issue. I picked up one of those small Ballistic Evo batteries. Do I need a new rectifier if I'm using this newer battery? I was looking at one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-BSA-NOR ... 50&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And lastly, the PO didn't have a key for this bike so he cut off the contact box and twisted the wires together. Is there any hope of my finding a contact box to connect to the new ignition I bought for this project? I was looking through microfiche and couldn't find a part or number. Any help would be mightily appreciated (on top of the help you've already given without knowing it )
Cheers!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
If the HT wire is still long enough, then trim a little off the end so you have a good electrical connection to the new spark plug caps.
NGK has resistor & non-resistor spark plug caps. Get resistor caps if you are using non-resistor plugs, and get non-resistor caps if you are using resistor plugs.
You need to upgrade to a modern rectifier/regulator when using the Ballistic Evo battery.
The Tympanium rectifier/regulator in your eBay link is what I have on my T500.
For info on how I installed it see: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4858&p=109480&hilit ... um#p109480
What do you mean by "contact box"?
If you are referring to the ignition switch assembly, some are still available from Suzuki. eBay is another option.
Also, you can get replacement keys via eBay.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
By contact box I mean the connector from the harness that connects to the ignition switch. The little white plastic part. He cut it right off and wrapped the wires together in a bundle.
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
If I'm using the new rectifier and still attempting to use points, do I need to change any of the wire gauges? I wish I knew as much
about electricity as I do about nuts and bolts. And that's not a lot.
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
No need to change any wire gauges. The new rectifier/regulator setups actually limit the peak high voltage, which is what boils the electrolyte in lead/acid batteries, and damages AGM batteries.
So what's the difference between the LB05F and the LB05E? Is it a fitment thing? I've also seen an LB05EZ and LB05EP and others... It's all Greek to me...
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
I believe it is whether the cap attached to the spark plug with the screw-on terminal in place, or with it removed from the spark plug (for the LB05F, you remove the screw-on terminal).
resistor_covers.pdf
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Thanks Conner... that's awesome. I've learned a lot tonight!
I'll go with the E and leave the tips on the plugs just to keep it consistent. Have to imagine that the Fs would stay
attached better but I guess I'll find out!
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
To mount it the way I did:
1) one of the bolts attaching the battery box will need to be replaced with a shorter bolt
2) the shorter bolt needs to be turned to give maximum room for the rectifier/regulator
3) use a file to slightly increase the width of the slot for the other battery box bolt
Make sure to clean up those connectors & replace that ugly fuse holder.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
You soldered the 3 'Y' connectors instead of using a dual or triple socket terminal? Did you just wrap them in tape?
I'll have to sit down with my own harness and this diagram of yours and try to get everything figured out and marked.
Oddly enough it sounds like a fun project! Looking to get a new fuse holder, local dealer has them for $7.48. I should
stop making a bunch of small orders and just go through the whole thing and make one big order!
Cheers!
Slow and steady may win the race, but without loud and fast it's just a waste
My "Y" connections are something like what Suzuki used to do. But definitely not up to the impressive standards of Suzsmokeyallan's work.
I trim the insulation off of the "main" wire where the junction will be.
Then attach the other wire & solder them together. Trim any wire stands that stick out.
Cover the junction with something like heat shrink tubing.
Finally wrap the wires together with electrical tape to make a little wiring harness.
Don't make a "T" connection -- flexing could cause the joint to fail.
The wiring harness prevents flexing of the solder joint, which could cause it to fail.
Have fun.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
)
