Suzuki 2 Strokes

jabcb wrote:No problems, we are not annoyed.
Its just that your wiring has been modified a bit & we aren’t sure what was done, so we ran out of suggestions.

Can you read the wiring diagram that I posted in your other topic?
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12778

If the bike was in front of me, I would disconnect all the stock Suzuki connectors while leaving the modified connector alone.
(The two twist-on connectors are not not stock.)
And then try to figure out how it was modified.

rngdng wrote:I feel sure that you have managed to ground the ignition circuit somehow. The kill switch and ignition switch ground the ignition in basically the same way, so I would start there. Wiring is never much fun. Good luck. I have a similar project going on a Yamaha right now.


Lane

jabcb wrote:No problems, we are not annoyed.
Its just that your wiring has been modified a bit & we aren’t sure what was done, so we ran out of suggestions.

Can you read the wiring diagram that I posted in your other topic?
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12778

If the bike was in front of me, I would disconnect all the stock Suzuki connectors while leaving the modified connector alone.
(The two twist-on connectors are not not stock.)
And then try to figure out how it was modified.

Ramjam wrote:

rngdng wrote:I feel sure that you have managed to ground the ignition circuit somehow. The kill switch and ignition switch ground the ignition in basically the same way, so I would start there. Wiring is never much fun. Good luck. I have a similar project going on a Yamaha right now.


Lane

Please explain what you mean about the kill switch and ignition switch. Where/how do they ground? Is it possible that i just have not earthed it correctly? Also, you can see in my pic that the orange and orange/white cables which are part of the ignition kill switch are connected with the green block. The PO put a bridge on the block connectro which comes from teh handle bar kill switch, which i guess that woud make it permanently ON, right?

rngdng wrote:

Ramjam wrote:

rngdng wrote:I feel sure that you have managed to ground the ignition circuit somehow. The kill switch and ignition switch ground the ignition in basically the same way, so I would start there. Wiring is never much fun. Good luck. I have a similar project going on a Yamaha right now.


Lane

Please explain what you mean about the kill switch and ignition switch. Where/how do they ground? Is it possible that i just have not earthed it correctly? Also, you can see in my pic that the orange and orange/white cables which are part of the ignition kill switch are connected with the green block. The PO put a bridge on the block connectro which comes from teh handle bar kill switch, which i guess that woud make it permanently ON, right?

Kill switch is from the right handlebar pod. Ignition switch is where the key goes. Both ground out the ignition signal when turned off. I can't tell from the pictures what has been done. I would use a wiring diagram and a meter to chase down the problem.

WHERE do they both "ground out" exactly? In the bowl itself? Telling me "Kill switch is from the right handlebar pod. Ignition switch is where the key goes" isn't much help. I'm not an idiot.

If i didn't have the correct earths inside the bowl connected would that effect the ignitition?


Lane

Ramjam wrote:

jabcb wrote:No problems, we are not annoyed.
Its just that your wiring has been modified a bit & we aren’t sure what was done, so we ran out of suggestions.

Can you read the wiring diagram that I posted in your other topic?
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12778

If the bike was in front of me, I would disconnect all the stock Suzuki connectors while leaving the modified connector alone.
(The two twist-on connectors are not not stock.)
And then try to figure out how it was modified.

OK, so if i dosconnect all the stock connectors, how would that help me identify where the problem is?

tz375 wrote:You have identified the connector to the right bar switch. The Run switch has a three pin connector. Orange (power in), orange and white (power out to the ignition system) and a third that is either empty or light green/white which goes nowhere.

You may want to just follow where the "kill" switch wiring goes from the grip to the bowl and make sure you know which one it is and then find the matching socket with the same wires. Our bikes do not Ground out the circuit to Kill power. They are simple on-off switches that in the RUN position allow 12v power to flow to the coils.

So if the Orange lead has power when teh key is in the ON position, good. Next. test to see if the other lead (orange and white has power when the run switch is in RUN position and no power when OFF.

Any other result is not acceptable. Any bridging leads added by the PO should be removed as should any connections to any electronic tacho.

If that tests OK, go to the 6 pin coil connector and pull it and test to see if there is 12v at all three orange leads in the ON and RUn positions and zero power in any other switch position. You are testing the loom side - not the coil side in that one.

Ramjam wrote:

tz375 wrote:You have identified the connector to the right bar switch. The Run switch has a three pin connector. Orange (power in), orange and white (power out to the ignition system) and a third that is either empty or light green/white which goes nowhere.

You may want to just follow where the "kill" switch wiring goes from the grip to the bowl and make sure you know which one it is and then find the matching socket with the same wires. Our bikes do not Ground out the circuit to Kill power. They are simple on-off switches that in the RUN position allow 12v power to flow to the coils.

So if the Orange lead has power when teh key is in the ON position, good. Next. test to see if the other lead (orange and white has power when the run switch is in RUN position and no power when OFF.

Any other result is not acceptable. Any bridging leads added by the PO should be removed as should any connections to any electronic tacho.

If that tests OK, go to the 6 pin coil connector and pull it and test to see if there is 12v at all three orange leads in the ON and RUn positions and zero power in any other switch position. You are testing the loom side - not the coil side in that one.

Thanks terribly. This is hugely useful and a good starting point. I can't help feeling that it's not about connectors but something that i have DONE in pulling out the wires from the bowl and returning them. thanks again. Will update you

MJ