Suzuki 2 Strokes

Loooonnngg story short: This is not a Suzuki but may help someone at some time. I built a Yamaha dualsort with a Blaster 200 atv motor. Ran perfect for a year. One day I turned into a giant Kansas headwind and it started stumbling. Not jetting. It would run great down low and idle for days. I noticed tach reading dropping out at exactly 5800 rpm. I triple checked ignition pulser coil, ignition charge coil, high tension coil, grounds, all connections, swapped switches. EVERYTHING. I chased this for months. I decided to replace the working and properly ohmed high tension coil anyways. When I removed it read OPEN! What? I had a 30 year old coil off of who knows what, but it was the correct 1/2 ohm reading. Bike runs perfect again. That one kicked my butt and still makes no sense!

Somewhat a similiar experience. I own a 1950 Chevy Deluxe. On it, like you. I chased a starting issue for several months. The car would start flawlessly if the engine was cold. But, never restart if the engine was at operating temperature. I was baffled for months due to the fact all ignition and electrical components were brand new and correct. I got fed up, ready to give up and finally decided to bite the bullet and give it one last desperation attempt and replace a brand new 1 month old ignition coil. Never had the problem again. Lesson I learned. When chasing issues that seem to have no avail. Don't count out new parts. A lot of new parts today are junk straight off a store shelf. This is a testament to also having replaced 3 fuel pumps and 3 water pumps on my pick up in a 5 year span.

Having worked on all manner of bikes and four wheeled vehicles for approx 40 years, I've seen my share of silliness happen thats related to failure of electrical components for no logical reason.
The craziest thing I came across was a vehicle that was simply washed and then refused to start after. The culprit ended up being the distributor rotor, and there was no sign of physical failure to it.