GT550 flywheel rotor keeps frying
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:03 pm
Hi,
Earlier this summer I bought a 1973 GT550. Barn find, 7,000 miles, had been sitting indoors for the past 30 years. Great compression, clean, (great petina) beautiful. My mechanic and I got rid of the points, and put on the Boyer Bransden (sp?) electronic ignition, got a new voltage regulator, and rectifier. After about 300 miles of riding, I fried my magneto rotor. I purchased one online that tested at 10.4 ohms, which I know is sufficient according to my Suzuki 3 cylinder 2-stroke manual. I popped the new rotor on and the bike was flying! Battery charging fine, running smoothly, and performing great. Again, after a week of riding, the day came where the performance was declining, and I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. I popped off the rotor, and it was fried. 0 ohms. Dead. I need to solve this problem before I purchase another rotor.. Any ideas?
Earlier this summer I bought a 1973 GT550. Barn find, 7,000 miles, had been sitting indoors for the past 30 years. Great compression, clean, (great petina) beautiful. My mechanic and I got rid of the points, and put on the Boyer Bransden (sp?) electronic ignition, got a new voltage regulator, and rectifier. After about 300 miles of riding, I fried my magneto rotor. I purchased one online that tested at 10.4 ohms, which I know is sufficient according to my Suzuki 3 cylinder 2-stroke manual. I popped the new rotor on and the bike was flying! Battery charging fine, running smoothly, and performing great. Again, after a week of riding, the day came where the performance was declining, and I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. I popped off the rotor, and it was fried. 0 ohms. Dead. I need to solve this problem before I purchase another rotor.. Any ideas?