Suzuki K11p Ignition Wiring

[ryandaw]

I have a 1968 Suzuki K11P which I have been restoring. The original wiring harness was totally butchered and hacked and previous owners had cobbled in some toggle switches and stuff. A mouse had eaten the coil wire as well. I ripped everything out and purchased a replacement harness from Thailand. Some of the colours are the same and some are not. The big thing I am having issues with is trying to figure out the ignition. I have what is supposed to be the original factory manual but the markings on my ignition switch and the markings in the diagram are not the same. I don't know enough about these to understand whats what. Both switches have the same mount of wires just different markings. The switch that is in the bike now has a HO, TL, C1, SE, BAT, HL and DL. The BAT terminal is jumpered to the DL and looks factory. The wiring diagram shows terminals C1, C2, G, SE, HL and B(-). Because of the difference I have no clue what to hook to what.

There is 4 wires coming from the points, condenser, Mageneto area. The blue wire is Neutral Light, the yellow seems to connect to the coils and the black to the confessor. The points are connected to the condenser by a blue wire. I can't see what the green wire is connected to. I put a new battery in the bike and I have signals but have no idea how that all connects to the ignition switch.

I went through and multi metered each position of the key and what terminals are on. I connected one of the multi meter leads to the BAT wire to test.

First position - HO (orange) is on
Second position - HO (orange), TL (brown), HL (grey) are on. C1 (Red/Green) and SE (Green/White) are bridged together.
Third Position - only TL (brown) seems to be on

Does anyone know this bike or can you tell me what the ignition markings mean. Because the switch in the bike and the diagram are different can anyone help me reconnect everything. I have the wiring diagram, photos and a drawing of the back of the switch if that helps. I am stumped and can't finish without figuring out the ignition.

Wiring Diagram from Factory K11P Manual:

Wiring Diagram from a K11 manual:

Ignition Switch in Bike:

[jabcb]

You have the wrong ignition switch.

You need an ignition switch that is for a bike with a magneto.
Look at the diagram in the lower left of your first pic.
The three switch positions are: off, on without lights, & on with lights.
In off, the switch grounds the magneto so that the bike doesn't run.

The switch you have is for a later model bike that has a battery powered ignition.
The four switch positions are: off, on without lights, on with lights, & parking.

[ryandaw]

I am not sure how I would have the wrong switch. My dad bought this when it was a year old and it was driven from 1969-1972 and then parked and stored until 2012 when I decided to restore it.

When I search for an ignition switch on ebay they do look different from mine but in my factory parts book the switch thats in the bike looks correct and mounts the same way in the side cover. Most switches I am finding mount to the frame and the side cover covers it. My factory parts book does not show it mounting to the frame but to the cover like the style of switch I have now.

This is the switch that came out of the bike when I started the project. The factory harness was pretty butchered from sitting and some mice got at it. Some of the wires had broke off at the terminals because of corrosion. Thats why I am having issues now trying to reassemble. I mean you could be right, this could be the wrong switch but I am just not sure when it ever would have got changed out. I have talked to my dad and he never did.

[jabcb]

You have a black wire that runs from the magneto to the ignition coil.
This wire is not powered by the battery or the alternator.
The bike runs when this wire isn't connected to anything else.
A switch connects this wire to ground to stop the engine.

Check for conductivity between all of the ignition switch wires & the ignition switch bracket when the ignition switch is in the off position.

You mentioned that some toggle switches were cobbled in.
A cobbled in switch may have been used to ground the black wire -- this would then be the engine kill switch.

Do the wire colors in the replacement harness match up to the wiring diagram?