Wire harness repair/restoration

[MazerRackham]

Is there a more modern type connector that anybody can suggest? These plastic 4-6 prong things look like they will turn into dust at any minute.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Is there a more modern type connector that anybody can suggest? These plastic 4-6 prong things look like they will turn into dust at any minute.

If mine are cracked etc., I just replace them with new ones from these folks as they have exact matches for the originals:

http://www.vintageconnections.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CJF]

Great job with this thread. I used some of the same techniques on my switches and they turned out nice. Using the oil base thick paint is the key along with the wd40. Makes what at first seems impossible, pretty simple.

Also, anyone looking for a wiring supplier can contact this company. They have pretty much every possible color you might need to rework your wiring. You have to call to order over the phione, but they are very helpful. http://www.riwire.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[keithwwalker]

Using modern connectors depends on what level of environmental protection you need. Good place to start is:
http://www.waytekwire.com

For instance, period motorcycle connectors are essentially 'dust proof'. This thread already has links to suppliers for that type. These connectors basically maintain the electrical connectivity and keep the other connectors from hitting each other and shorting out.

Then there are 'splash proof' connectors, a step up. These usually have good protection at the terminal connection against moisture, but not on the backside of the wire entry into the connector.

Then there are immersion proof, sometimes stated as equivalent to a euro std. IP67/68. These connectors have a rubber sealing element where the male and female connectors meet, and also individual wire rubber seals where the wires enter into the backside of the connector. These connectors may also have a TPA (terminal position assurance), which is a locking device to keep the male and female terminals together.

There are three manufacturers of these type of immersion proof connectors:
Tyco/Amp, Amp Junior Power Timer connectors. These are the king of the bunch, used for OEM connectors especially in Europe for critical connections such as fuel injector and lighting connection. Bad news is that they are very hard to purchase in small quantities. Another big issue is that the male plugs are only available in 2 or 3 wire connector varieties. The wire seals and gaskets are a silicone rubber and will probably last forever.


Next up is Delphi Metripack 280 series. These are very nice, having much of the same advantages of the AMP series, but the connector pitch (spacing between wire connectors) is larger, so that the connectors are very bulky, perhaps too bulky for motorcycle service. Delphi also has other pitch sizes (150 & 610). As you would expect, these connectors are often seen on modern US domestic autos. I don't like these connectors as much as the housings are not glass filled nylon like the AMP connectors, and the latches are susceptible to breaking. Still the connectors are generally available.
http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/conn ... onnectors/


Next is Molex MX150/150L series. This connector design should not be confused with the generic term for molex connector (used to connect your PC's power transformer to your motherboard). The MX150 series main advantage is that instead of wire seals for each individual wire, there is a gasket built into the backside of the connector to provide moisture/water protection. So instead of having to crimp a little rubber seal to each wire when you crimp the connector to the wire, you just crimp the connector and insert into the connector til it snaps in place. I feel these are about the best in terms of performance, availability, cost and durability (glass filled nylon housings). The only disadvantage is that they are a little bulky, not as much as the Delphi 280 though.
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/fam ... connectors


Important thing to know about modern connectors is their current capacity.
Again, the Molex 150 is pretty good, with up to 30A capability, so you can use it for about anything on a motorcycle except for the charging wires.

I have used the Molex connector in demanding applications, most notably for an oxygen sensor next to a catalyst on a VW. High heat, rain, snow, and being totally exposed to the roadway hasn't harmed the connectors one bit.

Is there a more modern type connector that anybody can suggest? These plastic 4-6 prong things look like they will turn into dust at any minute.

[tz375]

Some great links there. Thanks for sharing.

For waterproof connectors, I used to go to DemonTweeks in the UK http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorspor ... /1283/1683" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


until I found Eastern Beaver. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pro ... ctors.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[keithwwalker]

That Demon Tweeks link for the Auto Marine connectors are Delphi Metripacks.

Thanks for the Eastern Beaver site(!), they seem to have the greatest range of Japanese motorcycle specific connectors I have seen to date. Everything from the late 60's to the early 90's is covered!

I have just been putting in a Power Dynamo breakerless ignition/charging system in my T500, and I stayed with the old style bullet connectors just to stick with the spirit of the engineering of the time. One upgrade I did do was to sheath all the existing connections with the little plastic covers:


Where I couldn't do that was the ignition cutoff relay and I basically extended the heatshrink tubing to the end of the connector.

One thing I forgot to mention on the waterproof connectors, is that they need a specialized crimping tool so that you don't crush the wire entry seal. Eastern Beaver, and Waytek both sell them (Waytek much cheaper). I have a Pressmaster crimp tool from Sweden, it has interchangeable dies depending on the terminal to be crimped.

KWW

[keithwwalker]

There was a post that was pulled on fuseboxes. Eastern Beaver has a nice fuse box design, but only splashproof.

Cooper Bussmann makes an interesting design that is available with different options for differing numbers of fuses and relays that is essentially waterproof. More relevant to modern bikes and adventure bike conversions than the T500, but since we are on the subject....

The unit is Series 15300 RTMR (Rear Terminal Mini Fuse and Relay panel):
http://www.cooperindustries.com/content ... _rtmr.html

These units use the Delphi Metripack wire seals, and a gasketed cover to achieve water tight-ness. I think it is a nice design, that I may be using for my CR500AF street legal adventure bike conversion. Not really expensive either, only about $25 for one of these units. Again, available at Waytek.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

As an update on the gear selector switch restoration, I had some issues finding an o-ring of correct diameter and cross section to replace the original one.
Luckily I managed to locate these and now have a few in stock.
After getting them and then finding some time to pull the bag with the switch parts in it from storage, here's how the restored gear selector switch turned out.



The original part taken from the engine.


Disassembled and all the parts have been cleaned up.


Now its reassembled with a new o-ring, new screws and sheathing. Looks good and works great.

[Joiseygirl]

It looks great SuzsmokeyAllan. I don't know where you guys get the patience to disassemble and rebuild these old parts. I truly admire and commend you.

And...how about our very own Oldjapanesebikes and that manual he's compiled.... unbelievable!

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Here are some before and after photos, these parts are from the internals of a switch assembly.


The left hand switches electrical internals, these are quite dirty, plus a lot of rust is seen on the horn buttons metal frame..


The horn button internals removed from the metal frame.


The internals from the horn and indicator assembly now all cleaned up.


The contact plates all cleaned up and the wires have been re-soldered.


The horn button assembly all cleaned and ready to refit. The rusty frame was blasted and resprayed, the wire has been re-soldered and the button was polished.


The indicator switch assembly all cleaned up and ready to refit.

[Roger486]

Impressive! Very nice.

Mine came out OK, but I failed to find a good thick red paint that really filled out the lettering.

[Roger486]

I tried a modelers enamel. The white worked very well but the red just did not have enough solids in it

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Leave the paint open for a while so it will thicken up a bit, stir it every now and then to avoid a 'scab' forming on the top, then try another layer in the lettering.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Some additional photos showing switches with a full restoration done to them.


A pair of 75 to 77 GT750 model light switches, the sheathing here in use is the PVC type with a semi matte finish.


An upper and lower left switch case for a 72 GT750 model, now needing the restored internals added.

[aussie gt]

Just amazing info to restore parts i thought to hard to repair myself, thanks Allan, i will be pulling old parts out of the too hard parts box and having a go,maybe spending less on ebay ,so much to read on site, it will take a while cheers Neil