Bad stator?

[rocc99]

Also, if it is my rectifier, I found this previous post on a different thread:

viewtopic.php?f=29&t=6786&p=121472&hili ... or#p121472" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Would the wiring instructions be the same for a T350? I recently installed a new handlebar switch and decided to have the headlight running at all times. Would I need to adjust the wiring based on the third option? Thanks again.

[jabcb]

The T250, T350 & early GT250 are the same. These bikes do not have a voltage regulator.
Later GT250s are similar but they have a voltage regulator.

The eBay listing for the Tympanium is the correct one.
It seems to be a popular upgrade for old british bikes, which is why the seller listed it for them.
When looking at the instructions, keep in mind that some of those old british were positive ground & your bike is negative ground.
The Tympnium works for both.

Did you wire up the bike so that you can not switch off the lights?

The 3rd option is fine if you are using the Tympanium or made it so you can not switch the lights off.

[rocc99]

Thanks for the response jabcb. As far as the headlight, I recently installed an aftermarket control switch since my original switch was shot. The original switch had a nine pin connector and the new one had a six (no on/off switch). I rearranged the wires in the six pin connector to line up with the incoming wires for the signals, horn, high/low and plugged into the 9 pin receiver. So, at this point, my signals, horn, high/low all work and my ignition settings work as follows: off = off, on = headlight always on, electric only = running light headlight always on.

Based on the above, it would seem that the Tympanium and 3rd wiring diagram should work?

[jabcb]

Yes. The 3rd wiring diagram will work.
I've been using it on my GT250 for a few years. I have the headlight on nearly all of the time.

[rocc99]

So, it seemed like I had all the bugs worked out of my bike and I was ready to ride. Took it around the neighborhood a few times and then...dead.

After some expletives and some thought, I came to the conclusion that it could be the way my headlight is wired. During the fixing of all my other problems, I forgot to change the wiring as suggested below. So, before doing so, I'm back with a few questions.

Turns out my rectifier is good, it was just grounded out. So, I still have the stock rectifier on there, no regulator. As far as my headlight, I have everything in the headlight bucket connected except for the R/G and the G/W, which currently dead end. And I have small gel battery installed.

1. Would my current set up lead to a quickly dying battery?
2. If so, would diagram three still work and solve my problem given that I didn't switch to rec/reg combo?
3. If yes, I see that I need to connect R/G with G/W, which I can easily do within the headlight bucket. It looks like I also need to connect G with R/G - I'm not sure of the easiest way to make this connection since I only see one inline bullet connector on R/G.

Finally, since I'm on the topic of electrical, do you have any recommendations on the easiest way to wire a kill switch? As always, any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

[rocc99]

I went ahead and made the wiring adjustments based on your original suggestion. I made all of the connections within the headlight bucket which made things nice and easy. I haven't had a chance to run the bike yet since I am now dealing with a faulty throttle cable (which happens to be brand new - such great luck). Hopefully that will solve my dying battery issue without any overcharging...

Though, I am still wondering how to wire a kill switch. Is there any wires I can tap into within the headlight bucket that would allow me to use a kill switch?