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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:24 pm 
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On the street

Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:18 pm
Posts: 13
Country: United States
Bikes owned: 1971 T500, 2001 SV650, 1983 GR650
1971 T500 that hasn't run in years.

After creating a battery cable connector I have a neutral light when I turn on the key. Not trying to start the bike just yet--have clean carbs, primed oil lines, etc., but as soon as I try the turn signals, or try to turn on the headlight the neutral light goes out.

Took the headlight off, cleaned all connections. Took the light control switches apart and cleaned the ground and the contact points inside the switches that I could reach. No change.

So before I spent more time chasing gremlins that may not exist, should the neutral light remain on when I attempt to use the turn signals when the bike is not running?

Or, alternatively, should the turn signals work when the bike is not running?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 6:18 pm 
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AMA Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 1809
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: 2 GT550s, 1 resto, 1 GT750 and lots of spares
oldrookie wrote:
1971 T500 that hasn't run in years.

After creating a battery cable connector I have a neutral light when I turn on the key. Not trying to start the bike just yet--have clean carbs, primed oil lines, etc., but as soon as I try the turn signals, or try to turn on the headlight the neutral light goes out.

Took the headlight off, cleaned all connections. Took the light control switches apart and cleaned the ground and the contact points inside the switches that I could reach. No change.

So before I spent more time chasing gremlins that may not exist, should the neutral light remain on when I attempt to use the turn signals when the bike is not running?

Yes it should.

Or, alternatively, should the turn signals work when the bike is not running?
Yes, they should too.

I suggest that you check the battery that it has at least 12.5 volts in it - ignition off - and 12v ignition on, then go through the connections again especially the earths at battery and connections to frame. If it's the original battery from the 70's it'll be knackered. Trust me on that one, but check the acid level just in case the battery is relatively recent and just tired.
Bad battery and connections mean bad running until sorted. You didn't expect this to be easy did you?
But it will be worth it eventually, honest.
I hope you have patience, you'll need it, but if you haven't, I think you can get some on ebay. :wink:
Plenty of help on here too.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 7:05 pm 
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On the street

Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:18 pm
Posts: 13
Country: United States
Bikes owned: 1971 T500, 2001 SV650, 1983 GR650
Thanks, Alan H! Appreciate the response.

Nah, didn't think it would be easy and that is really okay. Bought this bike just to have a cool old bike to work on. Just didn't want to keep chasing an issue if there wasn't one. Plenty of other things to do on the bike if I can move on.

Apparently, I can't. Figured it was likely a ground issue as all the connections that I've checked have been pretty bad. Just wish there was a chart somewhere of where the ground connections are located on the bike.

Looked on Ebay for patience--out of stock. Don't want to wait for more to come in.

Oh yeah, the battery checks out okay. It is a new battery and is holding a charge properly.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:32 am 
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Moto GP
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:43 am
Posts: 3179
Location: Alberta
Country: Canada
Bikes owned: GT750(Jx3,L,M,Ax2,B),T500
oldrookie wrote:
. Just wish there was a chart somewhere of where the ground connections are located on the bike .

Just about everything is grounded via the frame which is why it can be a real pain. You really have to check each section - I usually run additional grounds back to a common point when I'm working on the harness. There are wiring diagrams on this site (just do a search) as well as on my own reference site at this link. 8)

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Ian

If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 11:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 6:47 pm
Posts: 1633
Location: Blythewood, SC, USA
Flasher units frequently develop grounding/contact issues. The flasher can be taken apart, and cleaned but new units are cheap too.


Lane

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If you stroke it more than twice; you're playing with it.

Too many bikes, too much time, ENOUGH SPACE, FINALLY! Never enough money.........


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 6:49 pm 
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On the street

Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:18 pm
Posts: 13
Country: United States
Bikes owned: 1971 T500, 2001 SV650, 1983 GR650
oldjapanesebikes wrote:
oldrookie wrote:
. Just wish there was a chart somewhere of where the ground connections are located on the bike .

Just about everything is grounded via the frame which is why it can be a real pain. You really have to check each section - I usually run additional grounds back to a common point when I'm working on the harness. There are wiring diagrams on this site (just do a search) as well as on my own reference site at this link. 8)


Thanks, OJB. Your site is already in my bookmarks!

Maybe I should have said, "I wish I knew how to read wiring schematics."


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 6:51 pm 
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On the street

Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:18 pm
Posts: 13
Country: United States
Bikes owned: 1971 T500, 2001 SV650, 1983 GR650
rngdng wrote:
Flasher units frequently develop grounding/contact issues. The flasher can be taken apart, and cleaned but new units are cheap too.


Lane


That's good to know. Supposed to rain here tomorrow so that will give me a starting point for my time in the garage.


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