Suzuki 2 Strokes

just to let you guys know here in the UK we are having check valves remanufactured ,we have tested some samples out on the road with no problems and are now waiting for another 1000 to be made should be ready by the end of Nov 13 as you know we've all had problems with these valves.

please keep "us" posted on availability/price etc ?

Thanks for the good news, will these be able to fit on to the existing plastic line like the present ones.

Are these the octopus check valves or the SRIS check valves ? A site, a diagram posted on here, something to give us a good idea of exactly what you are referring to would be great. How you are installing them, etc.

If the Octopus check Valves that is great news .

Octopus/Spider check valves as far as I know ! Would be nice to know more,like when available,how much,& how you attach the "new" fitting to the oil line itself ?

The new check have been manufactured to match exactly the original valves as fitted to the ends of the oil lines that supply the 2 stroke that sit on top of the crankcases

The original valves have a barbed shape machined into them and the plastic oil lines have a matching shape so that its easy to push them on but difficult to remove them and the new valves match the old valves exactly.

it works in the same way as the plastic ties that we use for holding cables and pipes easy on but doesn't come off.

if you're careful you can remove the outer metal collet that that is over the ends of the pipes where they fit the check valves and then remove the pipe from the valve it's not easy but it can be done, then the new valves can be fitted after you're sure the pipes have been cleaned out ok,

the other thing you must do is to make sure the valves are turned to the correct position to sit flat against the oil inlet holes in the crankcases before finally tapping back on the outer metal collet.

The new valves have been manufactured by a UK based company who are specialists in these type of components and supply mainly the UK motor industry

hope the above is clear.

Sounds all good, did you have any idea of final cost per valve

Very anxious to buy these. Are you suppose to cut the old ones off or remove them so that every millimeter of the old line remains ?May I suggest, adding a diagram or some sort of instructions with each purchase. I'd also suggest make a little more than 1 thousand. Or have another thousand in the making. Should the first 500 sale in a timely manner. Yes, please end the suspense and give a round about price per valve. And remember that some of us are very close to being poor. Lol !

Right, having thought about this over the weekend on and off, I am a little puzzled, now bear in mind I have only ever bothered taking t500 lines apart so there is a possibility of a difference but somehow I doubt it.

Firstly I am puzzled about the fitting of these valves as the oil line (t500) is a female socket with no serations and I have taken these apart on many occasions and easily sealed in the right position with something like araldite.

Secondly I am very puzzled as to why making a whole union when you could just make a kit to replace the spring ball and insert, which is what I was looking at doing, but hav'nt yet as I have loads of second hand lines.

So unless other suzuki models pipes are much different to the GT/T500 I remain a little sceptical...... sorry

keeping an eye on this... pretty sure my 380 has the drip.

Pete O'Dell wrote:Secondly I am very puzzled as to why making a whole union when you could just make a kit to replace the spring ball and insert, which is what I was looking at doing, but hav'nt yet as I have loads of second hand lines.

Likewise I'm curious also. The parts I wuold have expected to see in a kit are the 2nd, 3rd and 4th from right in the photo below:



And I know some folks will disagree, but getting that barb out of the plastic socket can be a pig of a job without doing some damage, and there are five of the things, plus the in-line one ! From what I've seen - and perhaps this is just due to my own ineptitude - the odds of total success seem to decline relative to the number you have to do.

As Ian and I have had some conversations about this already, I can totally agree the spring, ball and seat is all that's needed to fix the valve. However, making a complete assembly means they can test each valve before delivery to ensure proper sealing.
Somehow the ball and seat interface fail, and while you can generally see no surface issues on the parts, they continue to leak even if you add more spring pressure. This means its a seating issue and not a spring pressure problem as long as the spring is in good condition.
I've often wondered if a ceramic ball or a Viton ball wouldn't be better, at least the Viton ball would continue to seal itself even if the seat had some minor surface issues.
Maybe I'm lucky, but I've gotten the valves off with very minor indentations or no damage at all to the plastic section of the line. Some serious finessing is required to achieve this but it can be done.

not a lot of replies from the mysterious chap is there

Hi,at this slow rate waiting for "news",I'm glad I have a nos complete line set (spider) should I ever need it ? One on UK Ebay at the moment,current bid £183 pounds