Suzuki 2 Strokes

Suzukidave wrote:You can make a triple chopper LOL

Noooooooo! that is so wrong...............

and the RS250 front wheel, to match.......





I've put the calipers to the front on purpose as a nod to the original XR11 / TR750 racers, on which this project is loosely based.



waiting for the headers to be modified now, to see if they will clear the front tyre.

I have been trying to find in my picture files a Kawasaki race bike that had the steering neck part of the frame welded to a plate and another plate welded to the front of the frame . It was setup so they could put different spacers or wedges in to adjust rake n trail and wheel base . I was close to doing the mod myself on my Srad frame till i got the engine pipe angles figured out . I will post the picture if i can find it , just in case you could use something like that .

I am pretty sure it was a KR500 https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasak ... B737%3B417" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thanks for the heads-up Dave - I looked at this KR500 at Sammy Millers museum here in the UK but don't remember that set-up on the monocoque frame.



But then factory race bikes differed from month to month - I would be intrigued to see the detail of it.
I'm hoping I have solved the clearance issue by removing one and three quarters of an inch from the straight section of each header pipe. By my reckoning that will allow the wheel to clear on full compression.
He said, hopefully.............

What really worried me was if the wheel cleared under full compression , i measured front wheel travel and then lowed the forks in the yokes that amount to simulate it . It was very close with the pipes tucked in as i did with 13mm clearance on the center pipe at full compression

Don't forget forks bend, at the same time as they compress under heavy braking.

old racer wrote:Don't forget forks bend, at the same time as they compress under heavy braking.

Yeah .. thats why the 13mm gap had me wondering about contact on mine . Hopefully the inverted forks dont flex much

I doubt you will get any flex from the USD forks Dave - they are strong enough to snap the headstock off bikes with barely a trace of bending! I have recovered many race bikes with totalled frames and the USD forks looked OK. The RWU forks do flex (and bend in an accident), but I run mine dropped through the triple clamps to improve front-end grip anyway, so that shortens the already short length of "exposed" stanchion. And they are quite beefy 41mm stanchions.

garry55 wrote:I doubt you will get any flex from the USD forks Dave - they are strong enough to snap the headstock off bikes with barely a trace of bending! .

Good to know , my project bike is the first bike i have owned with the inverted forks .

USD forks are very good - especially for racing, as they are very "tuneable".
I much prefer RWU forks though, as I find USD forks too stiff and lacking "feel" (read flex!). Guess I'm just plain old-fashioned!

making the timing-side cover





a bit of mechanical assistance never goes amiss



before having to resort to manual labour



the previously made spacer plate was deemed a tad too thin to weld without distorting, so out with the Araldite





now set aside to dry for several hours......................

...............leaving plenty of time to address this home-made (by someone else) left-side shortened cover, kindly supplied by a guy off the Kettleclinick forum. Thanks Mike


before.........





and after the application of a grinder and file.........





and fitted



and the other cover in situ

Quite a transformation !

That is one incredibly thick outer cover. Is that for slide protection? I just had one cut from 3/16" plate.