drøn wrote:Thanks a lot everybody! Enough about air filters to get me started.
The news are that I just ordered chambers, yay! And my taillight is almost done.
Anybody know about drilled rotors? Should I just drill my own old one?
I have drilled GT750 rotors and what you need is a drill press , the best drill bits you can get and cutting oil to help keep the bits from burning up in the very hard Stainless Steel . Also if you are doing a dual disk front end dont forget to reverse the pattern for the second disk ( dont ask )
Why is this here?
I think it is two resistors. They sit between the wires going to the rear turn signals and the ground wire.
The PO had aftermarket turn signals installed. Could it be that they required this setup? Why would that be? There's none in the front...
drøn wrote:Thanks a lot everybody! Enough about air filters to get me started.
The news are that I just ordered chambers, yay! And my taillight is almost done.
Anybody know about drilled rotors? Should I just drill my own old one?
I have drilled GT750 rotors and what you need is a drill press , the best drill bits you can get and cutting oil to help keep the bits from burning up in the very hard Stainless Steel . Also if you are doing a dual disk front end dont forget to reverse the pattern for the second disk ( dont ask )
I might just do that. I just figured a newer type would be an upgrade regarding wheight and performance.
I decided to do away with those resistors, when I installed the new turn signals and 'new' taillight.
and
I'm a bit embarrassed about this following photo. please ignore all the rust and crust. this is a slow moving project.
I haven't been able to start the engine to see how they work.
Another question:
I measured more than 15k ohms across the spark plug wires. There should be 12. What does this do? There is spark, but I'm not sure exactly how it should look.
Anybody know a good source for oil line banjo fittings?
I need both banjos and bolts for 5mm ID lines. preferably stainless.
thanks
I have started to clean out the space under the seat that I want to be empty. All the electrics packed up pretty easily so all I need now is the oil tank.
Did a double take there for a minute I have the same waterbottle right next to me on my desk. Would you plan to add a new filler on the side (now top)? Keep up the good work Dron
Madbuffalo wrote:Did a double take there for a minute I have the same waterbottle right next to me on my desk. Would you plan to add a new filler on the side (now top)? Keep up the good work Dron
Thank you.
The tank is the same as a kettle tank. So I plan to use the space for the water filler. I will use the stock oil cap and run a hose under the tank to the bottle.
drøn wrote:Thanks a lot everybody! Enough about air filters to get me started.
The news are that I just ordered chambers, yay! And my taillight is almost done.
Anybody know about drilled rotors? Should I just drill my own old one?
As far as rotors go.....If your hub is a small 6 bolt pattern, almost any later model 6 bolt suzuki rotor should fit....all the way up to the 84-86 gsx1150...(USA....gsx1100 everywhere else) the calipers could be made to fit possibly with a adapter plate. If the spokes get in the way, you might have to use a single piston caliper. I'm pretty sure a 78 gs 1000 rotor fits a gt750, a gsx1100 rotor fits a gs1000, and a gsx1150 rotor fits a gs1000.....so if a gt750 rotor fits a gt500....you have plenty of options
Busa is right.......and looking at your manufacturing skills with the exhaust clamps, I would suggest you make an adapter for a more modern caliper to run a later rotor. Drilling the old rotor is a pain in the arse, and stopping power will still be poor.
I haven't found an opposed piston caliper that will clear the spokes, but a single sided dual piston caliper will improve braking nicely.
Engine starts and runs really great now and most of the lights are working. The turn signals won't flash though.
I also just got a set of chambers from Titan Performance.
There's a few more photos of test mounting on my blog, here.
Side stand is interfering with the LH pipe. both the pivot bolt and the end when the stand is folded.
Can i just lower the side stand bracket with a handful of washers -looks like at least 10-15mm? that way the bracket would have lot less support on the frame tab so I'm afraid it would break.
Suggestions, please.
