Suzuki 2 Strokes

Progress has been glacially slow, but made some progress over the last few days. I was planning to run stock pipes first and then try these Strader pipes and then a set of Jemco's, but the OEM pipes refuse to fit, so they can just stay in the corner for a while longer while I finish wiring painting and fabricating parts.

Then we can think about spacer plates and ported barrels, 34mm flatslides etc. Tried to kick it over and the combination of higher (much) compression and shorter kickstart lever make it a bit of a struggle. Ah well. Maybe too much really is too much and just when I thought that nothing exceeds like excess.

tezer what have you done to prevent the oem pipes from fitting?
cheers mark

Nothing. I didn't touch them. It wasn't me. I wasn't even in teh garage when they got damaged, so how would I know what happened.....

Oops - A childhood moment.

The axle is in from the wrong side. The left inner has a much larger dent to clear the nut. Ah well, I wanted to change that rear sprocket for something lighter anyway......

Projects looking good Richard .. i like how you lightened the cylinder block a bit

Thanks Dave. They are A model cylinders so I had to shave the sides to remove the indents, and then I removed a little surplus metal.

Was it cost/time effective - I doubt it, but hey it make it look different. I do need to raise the exhausts - they are more or less stock at the moment. That should make it easier to kick over and start. I can stand on the kicker now and it doesn't move.....

What I meant to say is, it was a ex Team Suzuki trick race block with magic porting that was used in an experimental dirt track motor, but they found it made so much torque that it was unusable. It just kept breaking the rear wheel loose so they canned it. That's a much nicer sounding story.

tz375 wrote: What I meant to say is, it was a ex Team Suzuki trick race block with magic porting that was used in an experimental dirt track motor, but they found it made so much torque that it was unusable. It just kept breaking the rear wheel loose so they canned it. That's a much nicer sounding story.

i thought that sure looked like a full race fatory block ... secret weapon huh

Ah those old TR road race cylinders - no bottom end compared to the set I got from a guy whose uncle knew a guy who worked with someone who knew this other guy who was close to someone in the race shop in Japan and saved them from the crusher. Some story about swapping the barrels for a set of bell bottoms from the US

too bad they didnt reed them to get some of the bottom end back .

So Richard .. any update's .. inquiring minds need to know

Between Turkey day, work and house projects not a lot.....

Dropped a large box of parts at the plater last week to be stripped and re-plated in bright zinc. I asked them to bake teh lot to eliminate hydrogen embrittlement which is an unfortunate side effect of the plating process. I spoke to the plater yesterday and he told me he'll have to do some as barrel and some on wires.

Hopefully that will come back soon.

I just ordered throttle cables and a replacement intake rubber for the one that the fairies hid. I was going to make the cables but the top ends were too far gone.

I should really chrome plate the foot brake and gear shift levers but I can't bring myself to put chrome on this bike - there's already too much bling for a pseudo race bike.

The rear axle was drilled out but I want a bigger hole, so I bought a long drill and now I need to learn how to dill a 12" deep hole 5/16" diameter without breaking something or getting the drill off center. Long drills get hot and walk off line very easily.

Dave - did you spot the kickstart lever? Must save at least a couple of grams.

The plating came back all bright and shiny and the chain arrived, so that's on and adjusted and teh rear wheel is bolted up. Still need to align the wheels, but I need to wait for a warmer day the cold wind whistles in under the garage door.

The replacement intake rubber arrived from bikebandit.com along with a nice new pair of throttle cable - which of course are way too long for the bars I'm using. I'll have to shorten them if I can find end fittings (nipples) for the throttle drum end. If not, it's back to http://www.Flanderscables.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Carbs have gathered some dust so I'd better clean them again and make sure I have appropriate brass in them. I may start rich with Z-6 nozzles and 120 mains with stock 47.7 slow jets and see how that works. Of course I need to decide which set of pipes are up first. If I start with stockers, I need to jet differently so I may just set up two racks of carbs to make it faster to swap them out. I can set one rack up with Z-6 and the other with Z-0 (OEM) but I need to order some more main jets too many sizes missing right now.

Will someone remind me how this project went of the rails. All I was doing is using up all the stock parts left over from the last two GTs. A quick, low cost, minimal investment project. What happened?

These projects have a way of doing that dont they

Try to find some 380 cables, they are shorter and just may work.

Thanks for the tip Barry. I found a couple of cable ends in the last pile of stuff I bought from Falnders, so I'll try to shorten them first and if I screw that up too badly I'll try 380 cables.

It is cold out there, even with the furnace on. Cold air just blasts in under the door.

Today I managed to shorten both new throttle cables. Fortunately I had two end fittings left, so all I had to do was to cut off the end fitting at the throttle, Remove the inner, cut the outer to length, trim the inner to the right length, fit a new end fitting, splay the cable out and solder it. And then repeat for the return/close cable. Only took an hour or so.

I keep forgetting that nothing is original and these bits have never been together in the one bike before now.