Suzuki 2 Strokes

^ that looks great! What type of exhaust gaskets are required with the Jemco 3-1?

I'm close to pulling the trigger on a Jemco 3-1 for myself. I wonder if he could provide one further step with a chrome option over the nickel?

I didn’t ask about Jemco’s current options. He may have added some options via other businesses.

Since the exhaust will be new, there are likely a lot of shops willing to chrome plate or ceramic coat it.

If you are going after chrome, you should get the exhaust uncoated. Whoever does the chroming has a standardized process where they put down the base layer (nickel, but it might vary) and they a thin coat of chrome. They might charge more if the exhaust already has a nickel base layer. You might end up paying Jemco to apply the nickel coating & the chromer to remove/replace the nickel coating.

A ceramic coater likely will also want the exhaust uncoated.

I don’t remember what we did for the exhaust gaskets. A shop installed the exhaust a few years ago. Likely used the stock gaskets but may have also used some high temp silicone .

The joint between the 3-into-1 header and the exhaust is held together by two springs. Doesn’t have as gasket. The exhaust pipe just slides into a u-shaped connection on the header.

Last year I had some trouble with the right cylinder ignition. Didn’t know it & got fed up with the joint leaking & marking its spot. So I sealed the joint with high temp silicone.
After that I realized it was an ignition problem. Replaced the coils, plug gaps & plugs. Got mass quantities of smoke when I fired it up, but the bike is now fine.

CermaKrome (ceramic chrome coating) is a good option too. I had the 3-3 on my 550 done almost two years ago and it still looks good. Originally ran it for a couple of weeks in the 'built as patchwork effect' then went on holiday and two weeks later, it had just started to show small rust patches, so I then took it to Camcoat in the UK. They shot blasted, ceramic coated it and baked it a treat. http://www.camcoat.com/main/coatings6.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for details
I can really recommend that and it doesn't rust - (I'm a rider, not a polisher). It's also much cheaper than chroming, so win win all round.
Clicky linky. Before and after coating details page 2 and 3.

That does look good Alan and I have a friend that had his Spec II chambers on his Kaw H2B done by Jet Hot with a similar product. I've seen his in person and it is a good option.

Thanks for some points to ponder jabcb!

Finally working on the motor. Transmission is in and the shifter works.
cafe-GT550-0894 by jabcb, on Flickr

Back in business! Got the crank back from Bill Bune. Fit perfectly.

Crankcase assembled.
But lesson learned. Used all new bolts & one of them has bad threads. Should have used nuts to confirm that all the bolts were ok before assembling the crankcase.

cafe-GT550-0965 by jabcb, on Flickr

Setup for installing the motor: two small step stools from Harbor Freight + wood + pipe insulation.
cafe-GT550-0983 by jabcb, on Flickr

And the motor is finally in the frame.
cafe-GT550-0984 by jabcb, on Flickr

That sparkly frame looks so nice.

I went for the easy (cheaper) option. Pull lifts and a rope!
Swing it in nose down, over a bit, down a bit, top front bolt in, down a bit, rear top bolt in! DUNNIT!!!!!!

Has nobody on here got muscles? Complete with pistons, barrels and cylinder head, I just lifted it in by hand. Used pipe lagging to protect frame of course. Its only 380cc, not too heavy.
Now my Bandit 1200 engine...that was a bit more difficult. I needed an assistant to push the bolts through while I lifted it in by hand. Though it was much more awkward due to being much heftier than the GT. I did have a sore testicle after lifting that one, but it was only a semi-ball buster.

A well, mine's a 550 motor which is obviously heavier (about a small planet heavier!.)
Try and lift a hippo engine - GT750 - that's a large planet heavier!

I can lift a 550 engine, but not quite far enough to get it on a 'standard height' workbench unaided. Anyway, I can't see the point of struggling - or paying lots for stuff that I won't need again. My pull lifts are at least 30 years old and were liberated from a closed work site skip. Refurbished by me, they still work fine. The rope was also liberated from a different skip. BT only use a rope once, and then chuck it away.
I love a bargain.......

I had the easiest (for me) solution. My mechanic/friend lifted the motor & set it on an HF step stool. Then straddled the frame & moved the motor into position. I lifted those really heavy motor mount bolts & inserted them.

Friend to look after!

Alan H wrote:A well, mine's a 550 motor which is obviously heavier (about a small planet heavier!.)
Try and lift a hippo engine - GT750 - that's a large planet heavier!

I can lift a 550 engine, but not quite far enough to get it on a 'standard height' workbench unaided. Anyway, I can't see the point of struggling - or paying lots for stuff that I won't need again. My pull lifts are at least 30 years old and were liberated from a closed work site skip. Refurbished by me, they still work fine. The rope was also liberated from a different skip. BT only use a rope once, and then chuck it away.
I love a bargain.......

Love a "found in skip" bargain too. Once picked an office chair up that way. Got back to the depot and remembered I came to work on my Bandit.... A few bungee cords and 35 miles later it was set up in front of a desk again. It did look a bit weird perched on the back of the bike and drew a few laughs from my colleagues.
Yes I'm sure the 550 lump is much heavier, though I doubt the Kettle lump is as heavy as the Bandit one. That was very difficult getting it to workbench height on my own. I don't recommend you try unless you have a very strong back. It weighs almost as much a 3.0 Alfa V6 short engine. If I ever had to do the bandit again, I think I'll have to start searching in skips hoping for a pulley or two.