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Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 1:20 am
by Zunspec4
Hi blue,

No the std. 3-way split cables are unlikely to suit. I didn't even consider going that way. I have fitted a TZ style double cable set-up (Domino twist grip assy). The individual cable were supplied via the carb vendor. Allens Performance in my case and were made to my need on length. Allens also do a straight std. length cable off-the-shelf. There are several sources for the right VM/twist grip cables though. Twin cables are far more practical when you will probably be changing jets/needle position etc during carb tune-up.

Cheers Geoff

(quick re-think - I just realised the you are using the oil pump and might need that 3rd cable from the splitter. In which case I would trial fit a std. Suzuki throttle/pump cable and see if it will work. Followed by making my own short cables to fit if they don't.)

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2019 3:46 am
by smokin_blue
I need to move on to getting started on modifying/building the swing arm for this frame. To do that I have my base that I plan to go with I just need to determine what the wheel base of the bike should be.

I have looked at many different bikes of different displacements and it seems that there is a common WB on many bikes of around 56 to 56.5 inches. There are some that are shorter but few and I don't want to get into stability issues. So my head is currently leaning to that target range.

Since the front of the frame is tucked pretty tight that makes for a swing arm of 21.5-22.0 inches long. That would be 1.5-2.0 inches longer than a stock T500 SA so not crazy long. At this point I am planning to cut, narrow and stretch a GS450 swing arm to accomplish this.

I would be interested in any thoughts or advice on wheel base.

Thanks!

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 4:32 pm
by titan performance
Hi SB....

I used SV calipers for a twin rotor set-up on one of my T500s. GS1000 rotors fit straight on to the GT500 hub.

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 6:27 pm
by smokin_blue
I thought about the GS rotors. I am using a GT250 hub, and if I remember right I think the GT hubs and GS hubs are all the same PN. What I didn't want was the weight of those old rotors. that's why I started to lean toward more modern rotors. I should have more pics soon!

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 1:24 am
by Zunspec4
Hi blue,

My race bike has a GT500 front hub. EBC list replacement discs but made me some that were 5mm thick compared to the std. 7mm.

Cheers Geoff

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 7:12 am
by jabcb
We used an EBC VMD rotor & a modern twin-piston caliper on the GT250 build. The rotor has the brake surface for the round pads used by the GT & GS bikes. Much of that surface is not used by the twin-piston caliper.
ImageCafe-GT250-0649 by jabcb, on Flickr

Some additional weight savings can be had by using a rotor that doesn’t have the unused brake surface. That’s what we are planning to do on the T500 build. Will use the same twin-piston caliper & this EBC rotor that’s for a bike not imported in the US.
Imagecafe-T500-0808 by jabcb, on Flickr

What OD rotors are you using with the SV calipers?

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:02 am
by smokin_blue
I am running Honda CBR600 F3 rotors which are 296mm in diameter (5mm thick). I will have the stock SV650 calipers on SV650 forks. So that means the rotors are 3mm oversize on diameter. I won't know if I need to turn that diameter down until I get everything mounted. It looks like it might clear as is but will be very close. I chose the F3 rotors because they are almost exactly the right diameter, they are modern light floating rotors and have the 6 holes 78mm bolt pattern to match the hub. I just had to drill out the bolt hole size from 6.3 to 8mm and make a 4mm thick adapter to get them to bolt up on the right spacing for my triples (which are NOT SV)

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:39 am
by jabcb
Metal Gear is an Australian aftermarket manufacturer of rotors & pads. https://www.metalgear.com.au

Their website had a tool that allowed you to enter the rotor measurements & find a rotor that fits you needs. I used the tool to identify a rotor that bolts up to my custom setup without any modifications.

Since then they updated their website. The tool is listed under “Info” - “Technical Support” - “Brake Disks”. The tool is not currently available & is listed as coming soon.
If those CBR rotors don’t work out, you might find a good alternative listed on the Metal Gear website after they finish the update.

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:05 pm
by smokin_blue
yup very familiar with that one, I have used EBC and the one on Braking. These I think will work very well but thanks for the tip!

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:19 pm
by smokin_blue
Ok I am looking for the likes of TZ375 and others who have been around the T500 for years to weigh in on this one.

About 6 years ago when I started looking at getting a T500 I contacted Sudco (the US distributor for Mikuni) and asked if they had replacement carbs for the T500. They did not. They had VM carbs but no data on jetting. (They offer pre jetted carbs for many of the more popular bikes) . Now in checking back in January of this year they said they did have pre jetted carbs available for the T500. They had both 32mm and 34mm and I confirmed this would get you baseline jetting specifically for the T500 and not just off the shelf "as sold" jetting in the carb. He confirmed yes.

So in carrying on an email conversation he said I could buy direct from him or through any dealer that buys from Sudco. I checked and my local dealer could offer a good price on a basic VM32 or VM34 but ordering this custom would be an issue. So I checked back in with Sudco to see if they could tell me what jets to buy and they said sure.

Here is my question. I don't know if I should be concerned or think this should have been obvious. I always understood the T500 carbs were far from normal carbs, now was that just the original homopressure? and not the later VMs? The reason I ask is here is what he said i should buy to match their pre jetted kit.
We would start with 160 mains, 30 slows, 159 P-4 needles jets, 5FP17 needles, 2.5 slides and 2.0 air jets on the VM32s and all the same but 165 mains with the VM34s.
When I look back at specs, with the exception of the main that is the stock jetting for a later model T500..... so does it seem right that those later carbs are not really different than a modern VM other than the material they are made from? any reason to doubt this jetting suggestion for baseline starting point if I buy a new set of VMs?

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:24 pm
by tz375
I didn't comment because you already have the same set up. I used CBR600F3 rotors and SV650 calipers on my GT750. Drill out the bolt holes, make a think disk adapter and one to mount the calipers and save a ton of weight while improving braking.

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:19 am
by Zunspec4
Hi blue,

If you are changing to current Mikuni VM carbs I think you have to start from first principles as they are different from the OEM carbs. My race engine on the 34 VMs use 280-290 main jets so 160 for a std. engine is in the ball park. When setting up carbs do be prepared for a bunch of changes while you zero in on the best combination, at least the modern VM's are very easy to take off and adjust (if you have no air box anyway =D ). My VM jetting box must now have several hundred GBPs of different Jets, Needle Jests, Pilot Jets. slides etc. lol.

Cheers Geoff

PS: One aspect of fitting the new VMs is the clearance between c/case LH side and the float bowl. It depends to some extent on the inlet manifold being used but it is something to look at. I have some custom inlet stubs which are angled 15 degrees upward and this eliminates the problem.

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 4:53 am
by smokin_blue
TZ375.... it was the carb and jet set question that I was looking for your comments on. Does that sound right? Are the later T500 carbs basically standard VM's in zinc?

But thanks for the +1 vote on the brake set up!!


Geoff,

on the pic you posted in this thread of your carbs are you running standard mikuni intake manifolds with the holes ovaled out to 64mm centers or what did you use there?

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:51 am
by Zunspec4
Hi blue,

With the 34mm VMs fitted I used a Plate Manifold from Allen's Performance, the main UK Mikuni agent. I had to remove material from the top case (just where the upper left bolt is on the sprocket cover) to clear the float bowl. For the larger bodied 38mm VM's I used a Sleeve rubber on custom made angled inlet stubs.

http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb ... tion-page/

Image

Cheers Geoff

Re: Lyster Suzuki T500 build

Posted: Sat May 18, 2019 9:48 am
by smokin_blue
Wow it has been awhile ...I got distracted with another project that is not totally unrelated. I was about to buy a small slip-roll for rolling my cones for my exhaust when a buddy of mine approached me about making one because he needed one too, just longer for a 4 stroke exhaust for a bike he is building. So as a couple of engineers we had to take on the challenge. We designed it up and he created it in google sketch up.

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It has 24 in long rolls that are 1.5" diameter. Solid cold rolled steel. All run on bushings. We plan to make a second top roll that is 1" diameter for my rear cone for the 2-stroke pipes

As we were finalizing the design we kept stretching it a bit so that we could get gears added to the design if needed. But there came the point where I said I hope we are done because I am about out of bed length on the lathe

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I ran the steady rest to do the end face and center drill. Then I could support it with a live center to turn the end journal.

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Checking the bushing fit. Was able to 0.0005"-0.001" under nominal on the journals so we have a great fit with our bushings.....not that it was that critical but it is fun to challenge one's machining ability. You can see the stripe where the center rest ran but it did not scar the roll at all. I put a light coating of moly grease on the followers of the rest and that worked well.

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so then it was on to clamp plates that allow for the adjustment of the nip of the top roll to the bottom roll. One down one to go (center hole got tapped after this step)

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Then side upright plates

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Here are some shots of the assembled roll

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The coolest little part that I didn't get a picture of are the saddles that ride on the top of the bushings to take the load of the nip adjustment bolt. Here you can see how the nip is adjusted.

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We designed it with just the top roll driven by the hand crank but with the ability to add gears if we needed to drive both rolls. Also in this view you can see the adjustment screw down on the left side leverage up the 3rd roll which adjusts the radius and or taper of your roll.

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We so far have run both 20 gauge (0.037") SS and some 22 gauge (0.030") mild steel and it worked quite well.

Now back to the T500....