GT750 Drag Bike

[tz375]

I am waiting for the professional shots that should arrive any day now on a CD. I don't have a whole lot of decent photos from the weekend. If you have anything - go right ahead and post them. Thanks.

Here's Kevin giving me some much needed last minute advice....


Next stop - the "Christmas tree" and a really short ride. All that prep and waiting for a ride that's way too short and trying to get shorter...


And that's two GT750 Suzukis ready to rumble. Not something you see everyday.

[tz375]

Ready to rock and roll ...

The only bikes less suited to drag racing than the Phat Trakka are choppers and dirt bikes, and it turns out that it doesn't matter much. Ya just run what ya brung.

That said, Kevin still gets down the strip around 3 seconds earlier than I do and that's close to 30% difference

[water cooled]

Current National Champion - Stock HH Class

[water cooled]

Details for the next S/E race event is shown below. If you are interested and have any questions, just post here or on the Super Eliminator Forum.

Super Eliminator (2-Stroke Drag bike) websites:
http://www.supereliminator.com/

General Rules for Sportsman Motorcycle (page 63)
http://www.ihra.com/images/2013/IHRA2013Rules.pdf

Super Eliminator Nationals 3 AMSNOW
US 131 Motorsports Park - Martin, Michigan
http://www.us131msp.com/

September 20 (Friday AM) Gates Open at 9:00 AM
Test-N-Tune Early Session 12:00-5:00 PM Test & Tune Fee is $50
Test-N-Tune Late Session 5:00-11:00 PM Test & Tune Fee is $25

September 21 (Saturday) Qualifying 3-Rounds
September 22 (Sunday) Eliminations
Gates Open at 9:00 AM

SE Class Entry Fee is $100.00 (per Race team)
IHRA or NHRA License Required
All bikes must go through Safety Tech before Qualifying.

Weekend Gate Fee is $35.00 per Person (Gets you in the gate and around the pits)
Weekend camping is allowed. No showers available. Local Hotels are shown on US131 Website

[D&D CHASSIS]

The early Friday Test n Tune is your best value.......it`s more $, but you can literally go up and make a pass without waiting.........Not so much the case for the evening TnT.......

[D&D CHASSIS]

Current National Champion - Stock HH Class

Sorry about the thread highjack.

Richard, I must say your bike reminds me of a supermotard/flat tracker hybrid.....I look forward to seeing it in person at AMSnow in Sept

[tz375]

Sorry about the thread highjack.

Richard, I must say your bike reminds me of a supermotard/flat tracker hybrid.....I look forward to seeing it in person at AMSnow in Sept

That was what I was going for. Now I need to pull at least one second out of that time. Is that even possible? My 60' times look like I'm taking a snooze and rolling it on nice and smoothly (translation: Slowly).

Back to Kevin's bike. He continues to do well and is starting to work out the launch bog that he's getting with the new fat tire. I'd love to see him beat an H2 in a heads up race. Would anyone notice if we filled his shift bottle with Nitrous and changed the plumbing?

[D&D CHASSIS]

I would think your 60ft time could be knocked down to the 1.92-1.87 range with some practice

[water cooled]

Couple new modifications to prep for the Sept S/E race.

Too many issues trying to find the sweet spot with the MT rear slick. GY made a short run of 7" slicks a few month ago so I switched back to the GY brand. GY is about 1" less in circumference but Im leaving the rear sprocket at 52T. It might help a tiny bit with launching but will need to wind it out a little more on the far end.

Also added an MPS Air Clutch. The main purpose of the air clutch is to control the rate of release of the clutch lever to help prevent bogging. One of the S/E racers noticed I was struggling with bogging and shipped an air clutch to me to try. There are some side benefits to an air clutch...first and foremost, it allows the rider to grip the entire LH handle bar and launch off a button instead of opening your hand to let the clutch lever go. (I have personal experience about how bad things can get when you open your hand to launch and you fail to regrip the handle bar in time). It also allows the rider to dial in the right rate of release which effectively allows the clutch to slip instead of the tire (when setup correctly) and with practice, improve ET consistency in the first 60 ft which is basically where the race is won or lost.

The air clutch is adjustable with a small needle valve. If you need the clutch to activate faster or slower, you can dial it in. In fact there are many adjustments that can be made. Some of them, in concert with the MSD Hole Shot (launch RPM) setting. The air clutch works off the existing air tank system used for shifting.

[Suzukidave]

Isnt that a interesting setup .. i wonder how hard on the clutch that will be having the clutch slip while full power is being applied .

[water cooled]

Dave, good question.... cant be much harder than my current technique which is dropping the clutch at about 7000 rpm. My guess is that if its too slow, you might warp a metal plate or two but Suzuki stock plates are pretty stout. I have heavy duty GS springs installed in the clutch so dropping the clutch almost forces the rear wheel to slip. When I had the GY 5.5" slick, the tire had little choice but to spin off the line. When I installed The MT 7" slick which is much stickier, neither the clutch nor the slick wanted to slip so inturn, it pulled the motor down and bogged it. I use Redline Gear Oil which is pretty slippery stuff with a high strength film. The clutch steels are stock and the fibers are designed for dragracing. If I can dial in the clutch and allow it to slip just enough to come off the line and keep the engine RPMs up, I think its the best and most consistent option.

Effectively, the air clutch will act more like a slider clutch which is the conventional choice. Unfortunately, sliders for H2s have been around a long time and have been developed and tuned for great results. No one has developed a slider for a GT750 because there is no market.

I do have a bead on which slider MTC makes that would fit a GT with minimal modification.....and it comes from a Kawasaki ZX12-R

Im, starting on the Fork spacers (lowering) today. My forks are off a GT380. I bought some tubing that will go under the piston to prevent the forks from telescoping out when the bike launches. I found some aluminum tubing that is 7/8" OD and .065" wall. That seems to be a good size and will clear the centering end piece and still allow fluid flow across the piston. Ill deduct the volume taken up by the tubing from the required fork oil

[Suzukidave]

I have also seen a fix to this .. they use nylon strapping http://www.tobefast.com/schnitz-racing- ... r-124.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Suzukidave]

It would be great if a setup like this could be made to work .. i bet the clutch plates are the same size ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/GS1000-Lockup-C ... 1c35782817" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[water cooled]

Dave, definitely the right idea there! The GS1000 and 1100 baskets are larger diameter than the GT750. Ive looked at every combination and the best approach so far is to put an MTC slider for a ZX-12R onto a straight cut GT primary gear. The basket needs to be cut down in overall height and the LH GT750 engine cover needs to be bored out to clear the hat section (pressure plate) and weighted arms. Two small grinds on the inside of the cases with a dremel and the assembly would fit perfectly.

I still have helical type primary gears which is not the optimum for a slider. However, with an outboard bearing on the slider, a helical gear might be possible. This could be done by indexing off the existing bronze clutch bearing which is housed in the small round clutch cover plate.

Total cost is about $2k with helical primaries and about $4k total if the primary gears were switched over to straight cut. Thats why Im opting for the loaner air clutch.

[tz375]

Awesome idea Kevin.