Suzuki 2 Strokes

Not much along the lines of an update, but at least I am slowly making progress.

Still waiting on the Higgy chambers. I ordered them 11 weeks ago. (so much for "6-8 weeks lead time" as his website states). I e-mailed him last week and he claims that they were going to polish this week. Hopefully they will come soon because that's the main thing that's holding me up right now.

Got a bunch of parts back from powder coater.

I re-used the stock fender holder but I cut out the front braces from it and am only using the rear bracing. I ordered a new Harley chrome fender and it fit right onto the stock fender holder. Had the fender brace and holder powder coated chrome.

Also got the triple trees, oil tank and a few other odds and ends back from the powder coater- also in chrome powder coating.

Decided to go with the Yamaha XS750 tank for sure. Got a new gas cap, a pair of pingel petcocks and some petcock adapter plates.

Also ordered my seat pan. Ended up going with the Bedlam Werks Bullit fastback seen here: http://bedlamwerks.com/store/parts/tank ... pan-detail" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




Mocked it all up in the basement today. I think it looks pretty darn good so far.

The tank and seat will be painted. I have a painter that I have used for a rather long time. I knew he was on the verge of retiring a few years back when I last used him. I called him up today and he is willing to help me out with this job. He pretty much stopped doing it for most people except he made an exception for me. Makes me feel good when he said he likes working with me. The paint is likely going to be sky blue and white (classic suzuki racing colors). I think the frame will be powder coated chrome powder as well.

Here are some pictures. It surprises me how long this bike is every time I mock it up.

Now for a couple of quick questions:

1) This engine is a real pain to get in and out of the frame. Any tricks? I don't want to scratch up the powder coat. Should I remove cylinder heads to allow for more wiggle room?

2) I don't particularly want to use the stock steering damper. should I use an aftermarket one? Can I go without one? Any advice?

3) The XS750 tank that I am using has a petcock on each side of tank. Should I run each petcock to a splitter- to a single line- to another splitter, then to each carb? Or should I simply run one petcock to each carb and be done with it?

4) Still cannot get this oil pump to work properly. I primed the feed line and connect to the tank. I removed the bleed screw on the pump itself and used a syringe from the feed end to push oil through until it came out bleed hole. I then hooked pump output up to a drill and turned it out. Absolutely nothing comes out of the pump or goes through the lines going to the crank. Thoughts?

I think that's it for now.

sbaugz wrote:Now for a couple of quick questions:

1) This engine is a real pain to get in and out of the frame. Any tricks? I don't want to scratch up the powder coat. Should I remove cylinder heads to allow for more wiggle room?

2) I don't particularly want to use the stock steering damper. should I use an aftermarket one? Can I go without one? Any advice?

3) The XS750 tank that I am using has a petcock on each side of tank. Should I run each petcock to a splitter- to a single line- to another splitter, then to each carb? Or should I simply run one petcock to each carb and be done with it?

4) Still cannot get this oil pump to work properly. I primed the feed line and connect to the tank. I removed the bleed screw on the pump itself and used a syringe from the feed end to push oil through until it came out bleed hole. I then hooked pump output up to a drill and turned it out. Absolutely nothing comes out of the pump or goes through the lines going to the crank. Thoughts?

I think that's it for now.

1. Remove the cylinders and heads, it's much easier (and lighter!)
2. Using a steering damper depends on what type of riding you intend to do. If you plan on fast sport riding, use a telescoping damper that attaches to fork leg or lower triple clamp and frame.
3. I'd run each petcock directly to the carburetor, less complex that a bunch of splitters.
4. When running the pump, did you advance the pump lever from closed position? Remember it's supposed to open in conjunction with throttle.

Figured removing the heads and jugs would make it easier.

In regards to the pump- I forgot to mention in my post above, but I did advance the lever to full and nothing happened.

My opinion...the bike doesn't need a damper at all. I have ridden for decades without one to no ill effect. Both of my bikes have been thoroughly thrashed many times over the years, and still are !
On the oil pump....I presume you removed it from the top crank case, and somehow attached your drill to the underside drive mechanism? Did you turn it the right way?

titan performance wrote:My opinion...the bike doesn't need a damper at all. I have ridden for decades without one to no ill effect. Both of my bikes have been thoroughly thrashed many times over the years, and still are !
On the oil pump....I presume you removed it from the top crank case, and somehow attached your drill to the underside drive mechanism? Did you turn it the right way?

point taken on the damper. Might go without.

yes, I removed pump and chucked up my drill on the drive mechanism. I double checked and triple checked the direction of the pump before hooking up to drill, and ultimately had the drill on reverse (which is the correct way) and it did not work.

My efforts with the T500 oil pump have been it usually works well. Until it doesn't.

Mine worked without a glitch until someone decided to run the oil tank dry. Being 20-some miles from home (or anywhere to buy 2-stroke oil), I stopped in the nearby supermarket and bought a quart of 10W-40. Once home, I drained the 4-stroke motor oil, and refilled with the proper oil.

After that episode of running dry, I ended up with occasional air bubbles showing up in my oil lines. Never had an issue before.

I picked up one of Bloop's oil pump rebuild kits on eBay, and rebuilt the pump. Easy task. Since then, I've run a full season without having a single oiling issue.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-T500-T35 ... 3b&vxp=mtr

ConnerVT wrote:My efforts with the T500 oil pump have been it usually works well. Until it doesn't.

Mine worked without a glitch until someone decided to run the oil tank dry. Being 20-some miles from home (or anywhere to buy 2-stroke oil), I stopped in the nearby supermarket and bought a quart of 10W-40. Once home, I drained the 4-stroke motor oil, and refilled with the proper oil.

After that episode of running dry, I ended up with occasional air bubbles showing up in my oil lines. Never had an issue before.

I picked up one of Bloop's oil pump rebuild kits on eBay, and rebuilt the pump. Easy task. Since then, I've run a full season without having a single oiling issue.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-T500-T35 ... 3b&vxp=mtr

I've seen that rebuild kit. Mine doesn't leak so I've been unable to get myself to drop $30 on a couple of rubber gaskets. I might just have to suck it up and purchase the kit. It doesn't leak though, so do I really need to rebuild it?

It don't seem to work, either.

I'm thinking that one of the internal seals is probably split. Or perhaps there is some obstruction internally. Neither will give any indication of an internal leak.

Couldn't hurt to pull it apart, clean, and inspect. A new set of seals at that point won't hurt. And peace of mind that oil is actually moving through the oiling system is worth $30.

ConnerVT wrote:It don't seem to work, either.

I'm thinking that one of the internal seals is probably split. Or perhaps there is some obstruction internally. Neither will give any indication of an internal leak.

Couldn't hurt to pull it apart, clean, and inspect. A new set of seals at that point won't hurt. And peace of mind that oil is actually moving through the oiling system is worth $30.

All good advice!

I really like that front fender you found.....really nice shape. Would it work without the rear stay too?

titan performance wrote:I really like that front fender you found.....really nice shape. Would it work without the rear stay too?

front fender was from a harley. purchased new on ebay.
It would work without the rear stay but I chose to use it in order to keep the brake cables out of the way. I figured using the stay would allow me to use the loop on the stay for the cables.

sbaugz wrote:

jabcb wrote:That oil tank looks interesting. Might work on our GT250 cafe build.

I can give you his contact info. He will make it any way you want. 4" or 5" diameter. Any length. Any fittings. He will put the filler cap and mounts anywhere. Pressure checked and shipped out for $100. I got mine five days after ordering. Let me know.

After sbaugz provided the contact info, I also ordered up one of these tanks. Similar story, built to order, pressure tested and shipped out within days.

Watching this thread with interest----Neat that there's another T500 build happening at the "same" time as mine.....although one of us is a little further along, and has WAY more shiny parts!!

One's in Albany - I'm in Ottawa Ont......we'll have to ride to a central point to meet up someday!

old t500 wrote:Watching this thread with interest----Neat that there's another T500 build happening at the "same" time as mine.....although one of us is a little further along, and has WAY more shiny parts!!

One's in Albany - I'm in Ottawa Ont......we'll have to ride to a central point to meet up someday!

Likewise, I will be following yours as well. I am at somewhat of a standstill right now. Waiting on my Bedlam Werks seat pan to ship out from Dime City. Also waiting on these stupid chambers from higgspeed. I ordered them 12 weeks ago and they still aren't done yet. So much for "6-8 weeks lead time" as I was told when I ordered. Once I get those chambers, I can move on to the rearsets. Probably will order from Titan, but I need to make sure they will fit the Higgy chambers first.
Hopefully things start rolling along pretty quickly because I have a deadline of mid-June to finish for the Rockerbox Moto Fest at Road America. I want to enter it into the bike show up there.