Early days but I can see that a good deal of cutting will be necessary after the pipes are in place. This purchase may turn out to be a mistake. It is the same as I used on the original however so I thought it would be OK.
I have also finished the fit of the oil tank, that went pretty good.
absolutely outstanding!!! I could see hints of the fairing in previous pictures and was hoping you would post pics of it this weekend. Excellent build.
I rigged up a mounting for the ignition coil this afternoon, functional but crude would be the verdict I think. I would have liked to get a bit of an anti-vibration rubber mounting worked in but ideas escaped me.
I'll need to work on this I guess. (edit: I just had an idea )
Not a lot of room for the pipes, where's the hacksaw and sanding discs
I have the same fairing for mine, but without the belly pan. Fitting it without the pan is a lot easier requiring just small cut outs for jemco pipes. I originally used one of Mead Speed's CR750 fairing mounts with some minor modifications and it worked nicely....until I decided i needed a headlight
Chris
'76 TR500 Style Cafe
'75 T500 - Cafe Build Underway
'78 Honda CB 750 Super Sport
I think the lower fairing is going to need run without the belly pan + modification to fit the pipes I will be using. I hope the "catch tank" requirement isn't so stringent for a 2-st.
I just splashed out on a new box trailer, seen so many rubbish ones on eBay (or good ones that are miles away) that I decided to avoid the hassle and be the 1st owner. Now I need to design and fabricate a nice cosy hood to keep water and grime off the bike when going to the meetings next year (It's bound to rain somewhere on the journey ) . A few nice "Zunspec Racing Equipe" graphics and it should look cool.
Suzukidave wrote:Geoff , it would look so much nicer to braze a couple of tabs to the frame for those coils to mount on .
Not just nicer SD, a better engineering solution too .
What this bodge did give rise to was if I have a couple of tabs braised on I can mount the bar between them. I can dispense with jubilee clips and secure the transverse bar between the tabs on anti-vibration mounts (male-female). Mounting the coil fore-aft conventionally would be tricky without a central frame tube which the Seeley frame does not have, and at the end of the day not strictly necessary.
I have been looking for a picture of a race bike with the coils mounted to the lower (upper) frame tubes TZ style either one behind the other or one on each side . It looks so natural on a race style looking machine to see the coils when mounted . Oh .. i went back and looked and see now its a single coil with 2 HT leads , here i was thinking it is a 2 coil setup . Hummm , is there room behind the steering neck , between the frame tubes to attach a mount with the HT leads pointing down ?
I don't think the coil has to be fore-aft orientation except by convention. I would hesitate to mount tabs on the steering head because more heat would be needed (on the thicker metal) with an outside chance of some degree of distortion.
Sorry for the delay, had trouble sussing out converting from the CAD program via Powerpoint to a jpg I could upload to flickr:
I think you are probably right, SD. Although working in the anti-vibration mount would be a factor.
Without being able to see the job in the flesh it's difficult to visualise. I'm sure we could usefully have a cup of coffee (or beer) and work out an optimum solution if you were here in the workshop .
Thanks for the input though, it gets me thinking and prevents me going too far down the bodgers route (I'm always looking for a quick fix).
Oh , believe me .. i wish i couldnt count the times i looked for the "easy " way to do things just to throw them in the round file ( trash ) and just spend the time to do it right . The coil mounts on the street bikes are hard mounted so a soft mount would maybe be nice but also maybe unnecessary .
Whoopee, the re-built front wheel will arrive tonight. I hope the damn spokes clear the caliper otherwise it's back to the wheel man for bit of off-set to be applied.
I wonder if I should learn the art of re-spoking, it would save a lot of to-ing and fro-ing (where did that expression originate I wonder?). Somehow I know truing a spoked wheel would drive me crazy and I'd probably end up tightening spokes until they snapped
Much to my relief, and bar a bit of fine tuning with shims to the disc and caliper mounting locations, the new wheel is in place in the centre of the forks.
The disc to fork leg clearance is a bit close but OK
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