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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 6:31 am 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 1:22 am
Posts: 227
Country: United Kingdom
Bikes owned: T500_MKIII
Grey_Ghost wrote:
akendall1966 wrote:
You can get aftermarket tap complete …….

AK


Thanks for the info! A couple of questions, however...How much of a role does the vacuum diaphragm play in the big picture? Will just using a regular petcock cause issues with flooding/starting/running?


The logic is as long as you got enough gas in the carbs to run once started the inlet vacuum open the tap once you shut off it closes so you don't need to remember to turn the tap on and off, otherwise operation is the same. If the carbs are dry or fuel is low in the tank you need to turn the tap to prime which bypasses the diaphragm. Once started you turn back to on for auto operation.

I run the OEM tap but disabled the diaphragm operation so it acts like the aftermarket manual on / reserve tap. Works fine, not being a daily rider prefer having to remember to turn the gas on over a crankcase full of petrol if the diaphragm and float needle are a little leaky. Once you develop the habit of gas on, ignition on -ride- ignition off, gas off its all good :D


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 7:24 am 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
akendall1966 wrote:
Grey_Ghost wrote:
akendall1966 wrote:
You can get aftermarket tap complete …….

AK


Thanks for the info! A couple of questions, however...How much of a role does the vacuum diaphragm play in the big picture? Will just using a regular petcock cause issues with flooding/starting/running?


The logic is as long as you got enough gas in the carbs to run once started the inlet vacuum open the tap once you shut off it closes so you don't need to remember to turn the tap on and off, otherwise operation is the same. If the carbs are dry or fuel is low in the tank you need to turn the tap to prime which bypasses the diaphragm. Once started you turn back to on for auto operation.

I run the OEM tap but disabled the diaphragm operation so it acts like the aftermarket manual on / reserve tap. Works fine, not being a daily rider prefer having to remember to turn the gas on over a crankcase full of petrol if the diaphragm and float needle are a little leaky. Once you develop the habit of gas on, ignition on -ride- ignition off, gas off its all good :D


Thanks for the info, that makes sense. I am used to the regular "on" when you want fuel and "off" when you're done. I don't know the actual condition of the diaphragm, but I don't want to mess with it if I don't have to. I'll just order up a replacement and call it good.

We have begun the final sanding of the tins and side covers. I have a few more hours of sanding plus some minor filler work and I will be ready to prime and paint. The seat pan is also close to being done. A little bit more filling and shaping and it, too, will be ready for paint. I am farming out the seat upholstery to a local guy who does nice work. Upholstery is one skill I would love to learn to do, just not on this bike. My son appreciates that, too!

Last night we rough assembled the pieces together to get an idea of how the seat will fit as my son is a pretty big kid. I am grateful for the wise counsel from joolstacho early on to not chop up the frame. Keeping the full tail section allowed plenty of seat pan to accommodate my son's larger frame!

Here are a couple of pre-prime/paint mock up shots so you can see how its all fits together currently. For paint color, we settled on black with some red lettering/graphics on the tank (and maybe some minor pin-stripes on tail section/tank).


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2019 2:22 pm 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Howdy! Got the bike into primer/paint a couple weeks back. Ran into some adhesion issues on the black color coat on the side covers that have set me back a week or two. I need to re-spray the color and then clear and wetsand before I'm done, but we're definitely getting closer! I'm pretty happy with the tail section shape and size as well as the body work around the new filler neck on the tank.

Built the seat buck and added foam last night. Will finish shaping tonight and deliver to the upholsterer tomorrow.

After those tasks are done, its just a matter of final assembly, double checking electrical and controls, add some fluids, and we're done! My son is worried we won't get it on the road before the season changes, but I'm still optimistic!


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Tank 1-1.jpg
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File comment: We shaped a notch in the tail section that the tail light nestles up into.
Seat Prime-1.jpg
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Seat 3-1.jpg
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Seat 4-1.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 9:20 am 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Howdy!

Things are moving along nicely, relatively speaking! We had the seat upholstered by a local guy in Salt Lake who deals with Harley's mostly, but took this project in stride and did a wonderful job!

We gave up on the paint because we kept having adhesion issues with the color coat that wouldn't go away, so I broke the piggy bank open and sent it off to the painter. We should have the parts back by the end of next week.

And now for the biggest announcement of all...We got the bike fired up yesterday! It sounds great with the new pipes! Here is a link to a video where you can hear it the beautiful mechanical music! I apologize the bike is not in its completed trim, that video will be coming soon!

https://youtu.be/_8Phs7FAAvk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


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Seat 2.jpg
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Seat 1.jpg
Seat 1.jpg [ 209.43 KiB | Viewed 898 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 11:49 am 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Have any of you guys run into problems with a really stiff clutch? When the clutch pack is assembled and bolted together, you have to manhandle the clutch (like, both hands) to get it to disengage. We loosened up the bolts and it got easier, and the action felt fine, but the minute we began to tighten the bolts up again, it got very difficult.

Any ideas/suggestion?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:41 pm 
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Moto GP
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:32 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: southwestern Pennsylvania
Country: USA
Bikes owned: 69 T350 thru 75 GT750
The clutch was really stiff on our GT250 cafe build. We used new EBC clutch springs & plates.
Took the clutch apart. Measured the plate thicknesses & they were ok. Compared the springs to the originals. They new springs were wrong & were way too stiff.

Checked the US & UK websites (PerfectBrakes.com & EbcBrakesDirect.com) for ordering EBC clutches, and the part # for our clutch springs are different.
Was a few years ago & don’t remember which one we bought. But they were the wrong springs.

_________________
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more

Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 project & 75
GT380 72
T500 73 project
T350 69, 71 & 72 project
T250 72
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 1:49 pm 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
Posts: 415
Country: england
Bikes owned: several gt250 ramairs
one of the biggest causes of an overstiff clutch action is the way it's routed from the adjuster down on the alternator cover to the lever. you need as few bends or kinks in the cable [read: none] as possible. it really does cause problems. it might look stupid where you route it, but if it makes the clutch lighter, afraid you'll have to live with it. it's a pretty tortuous route really :D
cheers, dd.

_________________
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 2:45 pm 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Received the parts back from the painter this week. We are very happy with the result. Here's a couple pictures.

Goal is to assemble the bike this Saturday. Can't finish tuning the carbs because an oil line broke so I had to hunt down a set of lines to replace the broken one.

Almost there!


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Seat 5-2.jpg
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Seat 5-1.jpg
Seat 5-1.jpg [ 289 KiB | Viewed 793 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 5:36 pm 
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World Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 2271
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: 2 x GT550s GT750, T200, TC200
Love the build and style, but a bit concerned about the Dunlop K70 lookalike front tyre.
My choice is also a Dunlop, but nowadays a pair of Streetsmarts on all my 550s. I stopped using the K70s in the '60s when I upgraded from an 250cc Ariel Arrow to a 500cc Triton, if you understand what I mean.
Still, your choice, and if that's what you prefer......

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I realize that you believe that you understood what you thought I said.
But I'm quite certain that what you thought you understood wasn't what I actually meant.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
jabcb wrote:
The clutch was really stiff on our GT250 cafe build. We used new EBC clutch springs & plates.
Took the clutch apart. Measured the plate thicknesses & they were ok. Compared the springs to the originals. They new springs were wrong & were way too stiff.

Checked the US & UK websites (PerfectBrakes.com & EbcBrakesDirect.com) for ordering EBC clutches, and the part # for our clutch springs are different.
Was a few years ago & don’t remember which one we bought. But they were the wrong springs.


Thank you to both Jabcb and DD for the suggestions! I have taken them under advisement. I purchased both new springs and clutch plates as well as verifying a kink-free routing of the clutch cable. I am still, however, having issues with the clutch. The only time the clutch begins to feels normal is when I have backed the pressure plate screws off about three full turns (or removed springs). The owners manual doesn't specifically say "tighten the pressure plate bolts" but does say to "fix firmly" the pressure plate. These bolts are meant to be fully seated, aren't they?? There were no torque specs I could find on those bolts.

I never operated the clutch prior to the tear down so I don't know how it operated (if at all) before we bought it. Purchase of new springs and discs should help alleviate any PO issues I would think.

Any suggestions or insight is greatly appreciated!

BTW...Here are a couple pics of the finished tank that I didn't upload on my last post.


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6-11.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:41 am 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
Posts: 415
Country: england
Bikes owned: several gt250 ramairs
hi g.g, thanks for the thanks :D the gt350 engine i built has gt500 clutch springs in it in a gt250 clutch and although it's not light, it can easily be pulled in. a couple of points, apart from a good route through the frame etc, just in case: are the clutch pushrods absolutely straight? are they the right way round? is the clutch lever stiff in the perch? is the inner cable dead free in the outer? is the clutch adjuster that pushes the pushrod set up correctly? any of these could give you a stiff clutch feeling. don't forget, the clutch action will feel lighter when the engine is running. oh, one more thing, the 6 bolts on the clutch go right down. i tighten mine up in sequence - crosswise - then, when they bottom out just give them one more tap with the heel of the hand, which is probably more psychological than needed - just makes me feel better :lol:
cheers, dd.

_________________
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2019 11:49 pm 
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On the street
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Howdy,

We finally got the bike together and running this last weekend and I wanted to take a moment to thank everyone on this forum who have been so gracious and helpful while they freely shared their knowledge and insight as we worked through numerous issues and challenges. Thank you so much! You guys are terrific!

We still have quite a few bugs that we are working on which include blinkers, miscellaneous leaks, kick starter return, brake switches, clutch and transmission issues. The latter two items are a challenge I hope someone may be able to help out with.

Right now the bike is stuck in either 3rd or 4th gear and we can't get it to go either up or down. I have tried to change gears with the engine on and off, rocking back and forth, trying to shift while going down the road, etc. No luck. I even re-installed the old shift lever just in case the new rearsets weren't cooperating in some clandestine manner.

Here is another one...When I pull in the clutch, the kick starter does not engage and goes straight through its stroke without ever spinning the engine. Release the clutch...engine turns over. Now, I'm sure you're saying, "You just said it was stuck in gear??!!?!?!" Yes, I did, but we are able to find a space between the gears that acts as neutral and allows us to kick start the engine.

And to add the cherry on top...the kick starter does not return to the starting position after you kick it over.

I really try to take great care in putting things together right the first time, so these development are quite embarrassing to share!! :oops: I fear the engine will have to be disassembled to fix, but I am just hoping there is a hidden gem in your collective knowledge that can possibly save us the unfortunate effort of engine removal and tear down.

Any thoughts??


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:12 pm
Posts: 49
Country: US
Bikes owned: T500
Here are a few pictures of the assembled bike. We hope you like it!


Attachments:
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2.jpg
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3.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:29 am 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:14 pm
Posts: 206
Location: southeast pa
Country: us
Bikes owned: GT
500 s will not spin engine when clutch is pulled, the kick start engages on transmission side of clutch, if bike is in gear, the bike will lurch forward when kicked, the kick start return spring must be preloaded, if it is, you should check for binding of the shaft.

_________________
76 GT185
77 GT250
77 GT380
76 GT500
73 GT550
73 GT750
74 GT750
71 T250 scrambler
75 T500 cafe


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2019 2:27 pm 
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World Superbike
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Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
Posts: 2271
Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Country: England
Bikes owned: 2 x GT550s GT750, T200, TC200
The rev counter doesn't work when the clutch is in too - or the oil pump - so don't sit in stalled traffic for ages with the clutch lever pulled in!

_________________
I realize that you believe that you understood what you thought I said.
But I'm quite certain that what you thought you understood wasn't what I actually meant.


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