My 1968 T500 Cobra
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My 1968 T500 Cobra
Picked this bike up last summer. Looks to be almost all original with the obvious exception of the seat (which I may keep anyways) and the handlebars it came with the ridiculous mini-apes in the photo on the trailer and I swapped it for some euros I had lying around. I put a little work into it last year trying to get it to run; took the carbs apart, cleaned them out, got a new air boot, got a next battery, changed the fluids etc. It had spark and the electricals worked when I first got it, but by the time I got around to trying to start, it had begun to blow the main fuse anytime I turn on the key. I've not really touched it in a while, and had kind of let it go after not being able to get on these forums last summer. Anyways, here I am, and here is the bike. I'm looking forward to getting it on the road once things warm up around here.
- advant63
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
even has an air pump. you scored all 'round.
m12 or50 k10 a100
s32-2 s32-2 t250r
gt250 t500r gt550a
twin cobras in baskets
s32-2 s32-2 t250r
gt250 t500r gt550a
twin cobras in baskets
- Suzsmokeyallan
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
Glad to have you here on the board, you did very well on your purchase. I'm not sure about the forum being an issue to get onto but we did have a lot of Spammers within the last year.
As mentioned by advant63, you got the elusive frame pump, an item that often sells for about $300.00 plus dollars on ebay.
When you have a chance to dig back into the issue of the wiring, lets see if its a problem that easily solved for you.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition before you start any work or testing, as the T500s are very touchy with batteries not up to scratch.
In the photos the right carb intake boot looks to have a lot of fuel staining by the cylinder, if you have not done so already you may need to check that area for a leak.
As mentioned by advant63, you got the elusive frame pump, an item that often sells for about $300.00 plus dollars on ebay.
When you have a chance to dig back into the issue of the wiring, lets see if its a problem that easily solved for you.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition before you start any work or testing, as the T500s are very touchy with batteries not up to scratch.
In the photos the right carb intake boot looks to have a lot of fuel staining by the cylinder, if you have not done so already you may need to check that area for a leak.
Two strokes, its just that simple.
69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
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69 Suz U70
69 Suz T500
72 Suz GT750 cafe
74 Suz TS250
74 Suz GTXVR project
75 Suz RE5
75 Suz GT750
76 Suz TS400
76 Suz GT750
81 Suz GSX1100
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
The battery was brand new, so that should not have been the problem. There was definitely fuel leaking at one point, but that should be squared away. I will need a new petcock, are the basic aftermarket on/off ones acceptable?
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
Hey "zoo mob," I may have missed this but where are you and that wonderful Cobra located? I have a restored Cobra and was just about to purchase another resto candidate but passed on it because it's time to diversify (I have a ' 68 and '70 T500, along with a '70 H1 - would like a '70 Yamaha R5 350 and an H2, etc...). See the photos I posted in this same section as "T500 Cobra Barn Find..." CAVEAT - I am not an expert but have owned 3 T500's, so let me ramble on with some random thoughts and experiences. The issues you are dealing with on this relic Cobra seem typical. I always say I know nothing about electrical systems but on all my T500s I have had to rectify electrical problems, check the wiring, get lights working, horns working, install signals, etc... From what little I know I totally concur with the above - start by making sure your battery is in order. Even if the battery is "new:" check its charge and fluid level, especiall since it's been sitting. No luck, take off the gas tank and seat and check the wiring. All of it. Check for worn wire insulation, pull apart male/female connections if necessary to insure good, uncorroded connections, etc... Also, open up the headlight basket and do the same thing there... you might find its a rusty bowl filled with deteriorated wires that have to be dealt with. FYI I coat all my wires, connections, even metal male/female plugs after pulling them apart with Strongarm Brand sprays oil because that oil cleans rust, renews wiring, plastics, vinyl, paint, etc... and it won't ruin/fog clear plastics like armor-all can. With regard to the petcock I strongly believe you should go with the original type of fuel petcock which is vacuum-operated. Have not looked for one in a while but I might be able to help you find one. I say try to clean yours by taking the entire petcock apart, but DON't take apart the vacuum. Just trust this novice. Also, once it's cleaned I suggest installing CLEAR fuel lines because that way you can see if the petcock is working and the carbs are getting fuel. Oh, and obviously clean (and coat the inside) of your fuel tank if necessary, and also thoroughly clean the carbs (again) if the bike has been sitting. When you fill the gas tank, I suggest you treat the fuel with an ethanol stabilizer - which will also help to keep carbs clean, etc... I also suggest you get under the engine and remove the crankcase drain plugs if this bike had fuel leak / carb flooding issues - you might be surprised at what drains out of your crankcase. Been, there, done that, with all this stuff as posts on this and other boards might reveal. Good luck and looking forward to corresponding further if necessary.zoo mob wrote:The battery was brand new, so that should not have been the problem. There was definitely fuel leaking at one point, but that should be squared away. I will need a new petcock, are the basic aftermarket on/off ones acceptable?
1968 Suzuki T500 Cobra
1970 Suzuki T500 Mark III [rebuild project]
1970 Kawasaki 500 Mach III - H1
1975 Kawasaki 750 Mach IV - H2
1970 Yamaha R5 350
1984 Yamaha RZ350L [acquired September 2015]
1970 Suzuki T500 Mark III [rebuild project]
1970 Kawasaki 500 Mach III - H1
1975 Kawasaki 750 Mach IV - H2
1970 Yamaha R5 350
1984 Yamaha RZ350L [acquired September 2015]
- Jughead
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
Thanks for the tips. I'm in Muskegon, Michigan. I don't think I'll be doing much fro another month or so. Any worries on running the bike without splitting the cases and doing crank seals etc? Thanks for the compliment on the seat too, I usually like stock bikes, but sparkly red vinyl and faux leopard...are you kidding me? Until I can do a museum-quality resto, the seat stays.
- Jughead
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
I'd at least start it and go from there.Just my Opinion but I would get it going and ride it to see what happens then worry about a restore.I'm sure the seals aren't in Good shape but Hey it's not going to Hurt much.Make sure you do the Oil Dam Upgrade in the transmission before doing much Riding though.
Hang me from the Tree of Shame.Damn! I forgot the Rope.
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
very nice bike and thats a nice subaru too.
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
I am in big rapids, and have done 2 complete rebuilds on T500s, and am about to start on a 68 cobra. I used to live ion muskegon, and have 2 brothers there.
Get a in touch if you need help.
Pm me for my phone number.
Get a in touch if you need help.
Pm me for my phone number.
Vintage High Performance Motorcycles of all types
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
Vintage High Performance Motorcycles of all types
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
On second thought..
Last edited by zoo mob on Mon May 02, 2011 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
$1750 ??? for what? the fenders and the tire pump? One of these just sold for $8500 2 weeks ago.
Vintage High Performance Motorcycles of all types
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Re: My 1968 T500 Cobra
Suddenly thinking I need to revisit this project and see if I can sort out the short and give it a little polishing.