Suzuki 2 Strokes

going to clean my tank with cider vinegar..saw something on you tube..less dangerous than pool acid..anyway, I restored\clean up the petcock and was wondering if I could leave it attached during the cleaning process?...would be a good test to see if the petcock is leak proof...or do you think too much cac will get inside it from the rusty bit floating around the tank? ..it is possible I will leave the vinegar in tank overnight..

your thoughts and suggestions are welcomed..

thanks

TJ

I wouldn't leave the petcock in most die casting alloys contain zinc which is readily soluable in acetic acid (vinegar).

Treat yourself to a nice bottle of wine, and wittle the cork into a plug while you enjoy it.

ok..but my tank doesn't have a round hole for a cork..it' more oblong..maybe some steel duck tape on the outside..to cover the hole?

Evaporust works well on the tank interiors, Home Depot sell it by the gallon and its reasonable.

EVAPORUST EH?..I'll have to check that out. Environmentally friendly?

Dont leave your petcock on under ANY circumstances. Whatever you use to clean the tank will attack the rubber compnents within the tap. I.e. diaphragm, o rings and lever rubber. I simply covered the hole with a peice of rubber cut from an innertube and a metal plate with 2 screw holes drilled into it and bolted it up tight .

acknowledged....I have this really good strong adhesive steel duck tape....I'll cover the hole with that...easiest thing to try first.....and I just reconditioned the petcock so not hooking it up would be best....the tank will be cleaned this weekend...should be interesting to see how it turns out. Muriatic acid is the quickest I imagine but there's now way I want that stuff near me....watched a utube video of one chap cleaning a tank with this stuff...NO protection on at all...stuff was all over the place...FTS!

thanks

Terry

I had a very rusty tank. I filled it with a mixture of oxalic acid and water and left it in the sun for a couple of days. Then flushed it out. I covered the tank in a bin liner scotch taped to the filler neck to prevent damage to the paintwork.

GTandcbr wrote:I had a very rusty tank. I filled it with a mixture of oxalic acid and water and left it in the sun for a couple of days. Then flushed it out. I covered the tank in a bin liner scotch taped to the filler neck to prevent damage to the paintwork.

THAT (covering the tank) is an excellent idea..I will definitely do that too...

thanks much

tj

i covered the tank and let it sit for 24 hours now, I will pressure wash out the film that seems to be on the bottom and hopefully it will be clean...clean, how clean id clean? can it be 100% clean? what if some of the stains etc cannot be removed? does it have to shinny clean or can a little rusty looking bits exists?..aside from using muriatic acid, I'm not sure if it can be perfectly clean...after cleaned and pressured washed out, what do you coat the inside of the tank with for sitting if not going to be used for a few months?

thanks

TJ

I have in the past used tank liners. This coats the inside with a sealant. The problem i found it was good for a couple of years then it started breaking up and blocking my carbs. I eventually got the liner out with great difficulty and vowed never to use another. I now clean the tank as you have every couple of years and have fitted in line filters for a suzuki bandit. They are not cheap but they prevent anything going into the carbs. If you do decide to use a liner the one to use is called POR15 So i have read.

GTandcbr wrote:I have in the past used tank liners. This coats the inside with a sealant. The problem i found it was good for a couple of years then it started breaking up and blocking my carbs. I eventually got the liner out with great difficulty and vowed never to use another. I now clean the tank as you have every couple of years and have fitted in line filters for a suzuki bandit. They are not cheap but they prevent anything going into the carbs. If you do decide to use a liner the one to use is called POR15 So i have read.

thanks for that..I'll check them out and see...i just checked and I can't beleive it..they sell it in canada...surprise surprise...
and yes, it aint cheap...i suppose a thin layer is sufficent?..it's not like one can paint it on...
tj

I have numerous tanks lined with Caswell. After years of trying other brands only to be disappointed, I concluded Caswell is the brand for me. Works great.....if installed correctly. Even works well with Ethanol. Using a heat lamp to warm the tank gently helps get an even flow and coverage. Metal Rescue is also my preferred tank cleaner. Been using that for years as well. Good luck!

Warehouse1001 wrote:I have numerous tanks lined with Caswell. After years of trying other brands only to be disappointed, I concluded Caswell is the brand for me. Works great.....if installed correctly. Even works well with Ethanol. Using a heat lamp to warm the tank gently helps get an even flow and coverage. Metal Rescue is also my preferred tank cleaner. Been using that for years as well. Good luck!

look that up to....thanks

TJCOOL wrote:

Warehouse1001 wrote:I have numerous tanks lined with Caswell. After years of trying other brands only to be disappointed, I concluded Caswell is the brand for me. Works great.....if installed correctly. Even works well with Ethanol. Using a heat lamp to warm the tank gently helps get an even flow and coverage. Metal Rescue is also my preferred tank cleaner. Been using that for years as well. Good luck!

look that up to....thanks

I have had good results with Caswell and POR-15, but Caswell is easier. Kreem can work but it also can fail. I have never had POR-15 fail. I have only used Caswell recently. It's good, but it's easier to see where the POR-15 has been as the Caswell is so clear.


Lane