Suzuki 2 Strokes

On the GT750 there is a bushing attached to the end of the crankshaft for the starter clutch needle bearing to ride on.

Mine is 1975 and has the seperate bushing and washer. The bushing apears to be an interferance fit with crankshaft.

Any advice how to remove this safely

Thanks

Try CAREFULLY with a little heat to enlarge it slightly and that usually makes it come off.

+1 to Allan's suggestion. If the crank is out of the casing, you can also use a split bearing puller.

Crank now out.

I have not tries to remove it yet. Now that it is out I can use both heat and puller a ssuggested.

Is this bushing suppose to be reapplied with some medium grade loctite?

Next is to rebuild water pump. I need to read a bit on this first, search post etc. but may have questions.

Also rebuilt starter.. sure looks a pain if needs to be done when engine in bike

There is a lot of labor to this engine and many little parts to loose, drop, or forget

Seals are sure wasted/rotted between 1 and 2 and 2 and 3. I think an issue was bike had full tank of gas for many many years and petcock fuel may have been left to Prime. Crank case was full of the most nastiest yellowed stale gas when I got it. I am surprised it ran as well as it did.

Vintageman wrote:Is this bushing suppose to be reapplied with some medium grade loctite?

It just slides back on when heated a bit.

Vintageman wrote:Next is to rebuild water pump. I need to read a bit on this first, search post etc. but may have questions.

Reiner in Germany sells a complete rebuild kit for the water pumps which includes the mechanical seal. He actually sells two kits - one is a bit cheaper than the other but has a replacement Teflon seal face (rather than a complete mechanical seal) so you have to be certain your mechanical seal bellows are still good. Just email him (GTReiner1@aol.com) for a current price list.

Can get complete new pump for under $170 shipped (gulp $$). Has anyone ordered the rebuilt kit from GTRiener and with shipping to USA will it be notably cheaper?

This pump (still in my block) once I remove C-Clip is better to knock it out from inside now my cases are a part? I mean push from inside case? Be honest I have not looked for several days now and everything is carefully covered (so afraid I would lose a part ) awaiting cranks returns and top end parts for bore to next size.

Also there is an oring inside case between case halves. I think one of the bolts pass through it? Maybe it is the #13 the older manual says to soak with Suz bond (is that still a requirement for a 75 GT750?).

I can't find the part# for oring via OEM fiche.

I will probably order the OEM stock head gasket for it is thinner than the aftermarket (gulp $$), but is it better to buy a gasket kit for all other orings and gaskets one needs for full rebuilt like this? will it have this inner O'ring I mention above? Good quality stuff?

Time consuming finding all the OEM parts needed for gaskets and orings. May miss one or two ordering piece by piece. I need to get this sorted out soon.

Maybe I'll buy the base gasket OEM too (that one cheaper) if better quality?

Last question.

Suzuki Bond where/what do I get this or its equivalent. The last stuff I used was anaerobic, light red in color and not impressed (forget name. meant for automatic transmission cases that mate without gasket).

Thanks

Waterpump.
Seals and bearings are easy to get. Teflon seals - don't. At least the two I tried leaked a little.
There are two O rings "sticking" in place. Easiest to press it out from above.

Base gaskets - try Cometic or OEM

Head gaskets - Cometic make them the right size. OEM are way too large in the bore and cause detonation and blown gaskets.

Use Threebond gray for the cases- I forget the number but it's what your local dealer should have in stock.

Don't forget all the O rings between both case halves. Sets come with 4 for teh front and one for the transfer port near the pump or go to NAPA etc.

Vintageman wrote:Can get complete new pump for under $170 shipped (gulp $$). Has anyone ordered the rebuilt kit from GTRiener and with shipping to USA will it be notably cheaper?

I haven't bought one of Reiner's kits - but I have bought some of the bits from him which are included in the kits. As I think I mentioned earlier in this thread or possibly elsewhere, he has two kits on offer. The higher priced kit is the one you want as it has the mechanical seal rather than the teflon one. Just email him for a current price list as per my previous post - he is an excellent resource and I recommend him highly.

For gaskets - I usually buy the cruzinimage gasket sets. Building on Richard's comments, yes the head gasket is too big and also too think - but its just like the one from Suzuki at 75mm for fire ring diameter and 1.5 mm thick to fit the J, K and L. M through B was thinner at 0.8mm - see service bulletin GT-7 on my web site at this link. On the other hand, it does include the lower front water pipe gasket which the Athena kit doesn't have, plus it has most of the o-rings you need - it does not include the ones for the side plate under the drive sprocket or (at least with the one in front of me) or the water bypass o-ring that goes between the crankcase halves. Note that the B side plate o-ring is a different size from the earlier ones eh ?

If the engine will be used for general usage - the cruzinimage head gasket is fine. Sure you loose a bit of performance but so what ? If you want to get the most out of the rebuild - maximum performance - then buy one from Cometic. For one of my builds I've done both - 72mm head gaskets in a 1mm thickness from Cometic, and everything else from cruzinimage, and I just put the cruzinimage head gasket aside as a spare for my non-performance builds.

I emailed Reiner and also asked what exactly comes with it. Why I asked for if not complete... more hinden time , part cost, and shipping money spent verus just one new item. We'll see.
This post was interesting viewtopic.php?p=96091" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"I'll see what Reiner says

oldjapanesebikes wrote:or the water bypass o-ring that goes between the crankcase halves

OK that's the one! Any idea the OEM #. I could not find it?

What is the old period rebuild magazine article (can't find right now ) about saying to fully dress case bolt #13 with Suzuki bond before installing else water leaks?

tz375 wrote:Threebond gray for the cases- I forget the number but it's what your local dealer should have in stock.

Not so easy to find here. If you get a chance and have a tube kicking around still get info off it for me please

Vintageman wrote:OK that's the one! Any idea the OEM #. I could not find it?

New number is 09280-12012 (original one was 09280-12002). Its usually listed on the water pump parts page which shows the water bypass spigot.

Vintageman wrote:What is the old period rebuild magazine article (can't find right now ) about saying to fully dress case bolt #13 with Suzuki bond before installing else water leaks?

Oil - not water. The #13 bolt is open to the crankcase before threading into the upper crankcase half, which is also why it also doesn't use a lock washer - just a copper sealing washer. You can also check the shop manual which I have on line at this link.

http://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_G ... index.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think it's 1104. Mine came from our Yamaha-Suzuki-Honda dealer and it's Yamabond 4 for $9.95