Suzuki 2 Strokes

Is there a special tool or clever method to remove the Alternator Rotor from crankshaft?

I am in the process of splitting my engine case to have crank removed sent for repair.

Engine was not as heavy as I thought and cylinder came off real easy not rusting to studs.
Now things have slowed down a bit as special tools are needed.

May have more questions as I try to work my way into splitting cases in half.

Thanks

http://pinkpossum.com/GT750/Crank%20pullers.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Absolutely wonderful!

Need to read some more

Here is what the girl looked and when I noted oil spitting out of crank case vent last summer. Ran pretty well given Cyl 1 and 2 intake had no suction either.


http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii25 ... us/092.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii25 ... us/090.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just need to throw some $, $, $, $ and time, time, time, time.

Man that new Yam FZ-09 tiple is cool even if it is a 4stroke... ahh too modern... and needs no work... boring

That looks pretty good for a Gray Ghost M model. For some reason I much prefer that tank to the A/B square tank and I have used that shape tank on two A model rebuilds so far.

Regarding the GT750 'special tools' theres only a few you will need and they can be made in a home shop.
If you have the puller kit, thats helpful to take off the starter clutch, I didn't have one at the time years ago when I first opened a Buffalo engine so I simply made one out of a piece of steel plate and drilled the holes for the three 8mm bolts and a centre one where the shaft goes. It works so well I always use it. I don't have a photo of this tool at present.
Then I made a stepped bolt for the rotor remover and that worked so well, I simply keep using it.
After the rotor bolt I made a clutch basket holder tool and use that as well, as it works great.
Same with the cylinder puller plate I made.
All of these so called home made special tools cost pittance and do the job as they should. Surely you can buy the items but making them is half the fun too.


Rotor puller stepped bolt


Clutch holder tool


Puller plate

Another "technique" I have seen is to pour water into Alternator bolt hole, part way up 10mm threads. Then put in the 10mm bolt in Alt. and tight in up. Since water is not compressible it pops off the Alt.

Seen this done with snowmobile engine clutches. Never tried it but a simple concepts if it worked and can reduce once collection of various pullers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoISuNdoE8g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cc0wAMjNgow" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How quick was that. Gives you time to work on junk stuff

I haven't got back to mine yet. My son blew up his Arctic Cat ZR900 main drive cog bearing and chain case too (lucky just cover). Nothing I enjoy more than working on wet snow covered sleds. He's getting better at fixing stuff but, still not as fast as he breaks them.

I dont think that water method would work on the starter clutch but it just may work on the Alternator rotor .

FYI,

One issue with the Set (aka Grub) screw, 8mm bolt, and 10mm bolt method.

When you put the Set screw in you feel it bottom and may stop turning without apply full torque. I think it felt like it stopped for that was the depth the original bolt went that held rotor. I bought the softest 8mm threaded rod I could find, then used a hardened 10mm bolt to push against it.

What happened was the set screw turned in quite a ways more and the 8mm rod went 3/4" into crank end stripping (rod) as it did. Since it was soft the crank threads did not get hurt. I used tap to refresh crank threads regardless.

I am so glad I decided to find a real low grade 8mm rod first. Even though I bought a long set screw, the crank end threading is very deep.

FYI

If you dont have the special tool Allan has shown i have always had good luck using the slide hammer method to remove the alternator rotor , the longest 750 engine mount bolt threads right in but put a large washer and a 5lb dumbbell weight on it first . Straddle the assembly and slide the weight away from the engine strongly several times and the rotor will pop off .

Vintageman wrote:FYI,

One issue with the Set (aka Grub) screw, 8mm bolt, and 10mm bolt method.

When you put the Set screw in you feel it bottom and may stop turning without apply full torque. I think it felt like it stopped for that was the depth the original bolt went that held rotor. I bought the softest 8mm threaded rod I could find, then used a hardened 10mm bolt to push against it.

Just screw the hardened grub screw in so that it's flush with the end of the crank. Just like it shows in that web page.

Allan's modified long bolt is more or less what the Factory tool looks like, but it should be hardened.

Suzukidave wrote:Just screw the hardened grub screw in so that it's flush with the end of the crank. Just like it shows in that web page.

I did, but, the threads in crank go in quite a ways. And, the 8mm rod may turn as the 10mm is turned and therefore turning the grub in further exposing the crank threads as it does.

In hindsight maybe I should have polished the end of the 8 mm rod (one end was factory, the other I cut with saw blade). Also I counted threads on grub and maybe should have went one more turn. Hard to know.

just a FYI

Another trick is to cut the head off an 8mm bolt and cut a slot across the top and screw that into the crank end so that even when the threads bottom out, the force of the extractor bolt will not touch or damage the crank nose.

Richard even though my bolt was not a high grade piece its worked well. For my next reiteration on that I plan to use at least an 8 grade or higher, but I just cant get my little cheapo version one to fail..

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:Richard even though my bolt was not a high grade piece its worked well. For my next reiteration on that I plan to use at least an 8 grade or higher, but I just cant get my little cheapo version one to fail..

I still have mine