Suzuki 2 Strokes

Has anyone tried this?

I have +0.5mm freeplay between the basket and the pinion, so a total of 1mm in one direction if you see what I mean.

The transmission has been clicking and knocking as I go on and off throttle for a while and it is getting worse. I stripped down the clutch today and found this much freeplay so want to sort it before I investigate further.

This chap just drilled, tapped and bolted up his

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIbzvJre7IM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And apparently, if you have a RD400 you can do this

http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index ... pic=9301.0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sadly no one seems to sell this stuff for the T500

So..has anyone had a go??

As you are in the UK, I'd suggest having a chat with Pete - contact info is here: http://tr500.co.uk/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. The shop manual suggests the backlash allowance is 0.16mm so yours is excessive. You can still find the primary gear (21111-15001) if it is the problem - I believe Marcel and Reiner have stock, or there is eBay.

Cheers

That no. is for the primary drive pinion, not the clutch assembly. I have looked on ebay, but they all come from the US at the moment and postage is £50+.

So currently my options are:

1. Drill the rivets, see what's underneath and then decide how to bolt the thing back together. If that doesn't work...

2. http://www.novaracing.co.uk/suzuki-gt50 ... -gears.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which is only slightly more expensive than a US part and is brand new

You need a set of clutch rubbers. Yours are worn out after all those miles. It's better to rivet up the clutch after but they can be bolted up. Check race guys like Pete O'Dell. He may even be able to rivet the plate back on.

That guy in the Honda CB900 link is a well meaning idiot. That is absolutely not a safe way to repair worn shock rubbers. Over time either his new bolts will brake or they will tear things apart.

Richard, I had to check that vid on the 900 after reading your comment. If you do not even know there are disc shaped rubber dampers in the clutch basket/drive section why would you think adding more randomly placed fasteners (in his case, screws) to make it solid as an improvement.
What hes doing there is total ignorance and a disaster waiting to happen. Most of the rebuild kits being offered by persons are basically new damper discs and new rivets to reassemble the clutch basket assembly.

Allan,

That's what I said. What did you think I said? I'm not sure where you are going with this. It's all cool whichever. Just confused a little.

Right I'll give Pete a ring next week.

However, I don't think it is worn rubber dampers that is my problem. The bike has only done 14000 miles. When I bought it, the first gear cog had been smashed and I think it is more likely that the shock of that has distorted or ovalled the holes the rivets are in.

This may not be the problem you are having with your 500 but we also saw posted here on the site a clutch that had to much play in and out . With that i mean he could grab on to the clutch basket while it was mounted to the engine and pull and push it in and out . He discovered upon inspection that when everything was tightened up there was too much width in the spacer bearing allowing the basket to move back and forth between the thrust washers . http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/clutch.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Update:

I spoke to Pete or his son. He said +0.5mm was nothing, they race with clutches with +3mm.

Had I checked for the presence of a bush on the right hand end of the gear shifting shaft. Often missing and allows the bit with teeth to come out and rub against the back of the clutch making a similar noise to the one I was describing.

When I got home and examined the shaft - bingo!, no bush and a bit of wear on the teeth of the thingy where it has indeed been rubbing on the clutch.

In my defense, I believe that when the gearbox went ping, the PO thought maybe the clutch nut had come loose, took the cover off to have a look and failed to replace the bush on reassembly.

Anyway, the bush is on its way to me and we shall see what we shall see - Que sera sera http://www.jonrb.com/emoticons/smile2.gif

You definately spoke to Pete i'm afraid

Well I thought he was a very nice and very helpful chap He just didn't tell me his name at the time

Update No.2

I made up a plastic bush to fit the gear change shaft, but this, apart from removing the side to side play, made no difference. The clicking noise still appears once and only once the gearbox has warmed up (after 4 miles).

I'm going to strip the engine this winter. Does anyone have any idea what I should be looking for?

Can we have an update on this? I'm hearing a strange clicking noise not in any particular sync just a bit of clatter... only when in gear moving.. shifting.. engine breaking. But not when clutch is pulled in and not when idling... thought is was the chain at first... but I put on a new one... I think it's the clutch... going to work on it again tomorrow

Sooo..embarrassing. I'm sorry for not updating.

Update No.3

I'm very lazy and hate the cold, so the rebuild didn't happen. Once the outside temperature rose above 5°C, I dug her out and rode her about again.
We are now nearly 20 000 miles further down the road.
I found with my bike, that chain tension is critical. I'd had the chain too tight and now run it very slack (slacker than any other bike I've owned) and the clicking noise went away.

The knocking noise appears only when I have been going down a long highway (it doesn't occur when I have been playing around the back roads) and then slow down. Not sure what it is but if I stop the bike for a couple of minutes it disappears. I'm using Fuchs Silkolene 75W80 if anyone's interested. I have done a 600 mile round trip from Calais to Orleans (France) three years ago soley on autoroute with no issue with the gearbox.

Nova flog all the bits that could break, so I'm going to fix it when it breaks (and not before)

tricky1962 wrote: I found with my bike, that chain tension is critical. I'd had the chain too tight and now run it very slack (slacker than any other bike I've owned) and the clicking noise went away.

Sounds like output shaft bearing (09262-22001)
Whilst doing that, it is worth at the very least checking the roller bearing and sleeve at the other end of the shaft.
Recently had to replace this bearing on a GT250 where some previous owner had long ago reassembled incorrectly and did not line up the sleeve with the metal locating peg. With use, it had badly worn the bearing, sleeve and the shaft. All three needed replacing.