changing the entire spedo assembly on gt380

[Ramjam]

i was wondering if anyone could tell me how tricky/easy this is as my clocks are buggered, as well as ignition barrel, so thought i might as well look for a clean used on. But is it an easy matter of unplugging all the wires are replugging them, or is there more to it, than meets the eye?
thanks in advance

beirut brit on the only gt380 in the entire country....

[yeadon_m]

Hi there,
Yes, changing the entire clock set is quite easy. You can get the ignition alone out though if that was the straw that broke the camel's back!
For the whole thing:
-two screws out near base of headlamp rim, pull out reflector. Disconnect its wiring and put to one side.
-identify and disconnect 5 block connectors inside the headlamp. Two small flat ones for the back lighting (speedo, tacho). Ignition 4 block and usually, two separate bullet connectors (red, orange). Gear position indicator 6 block. Console lights 6 block. Prepare to feed them backwards out of the headlamp shell. They should go through the upper of the two rubber grommet-lined holes.
-loosen / undo the two cables to speedo / tacho.
-remove the two domed nuts that secure the clock assy to its mount - you can find those on top, forward of the handlebars and behind the clocks, then wriggle the clocks downwards so that their threaded pins slide out of their rubber grommets. You might find it easier if you temporarily remove the two bolts holding the headlamp to their brackets, so as to allow to the shell to drop a little, for clearance.
-you're done - lifting up the clocks gradually, feed those disconnected wires fully out of the rear of the headlamp shell.
-as they say, refitting is the reverse of removal )
Good luck,
Mike

[sportston]

Having just rebuilt my clocks thanks to some components supplied by Mike, (Thanks mate, they look great now) I can say it is not difficult at all.
Removal is very simple, stripping them into their component parts is easy also. If you have a set of broken or milky glasses you may find it a little fiddly to remove them. I used a dremel with a tiny grinder bit and was very careful not to grind too much of the plastic away. I then replaced the milky plastic with two flat round panes of glass, gluing them using sealant sparingly. They look fine and won't go milky with age. I stripped everything down as far as it could got clean all the insides of the dials and lenses, including warning lights. It was a doddle.

[Ramjam]

interesting that you talk about stripping and rebuilding - rather than replacing as i have just decided NOT to replace the whole thing, but to take it off and fix/clean up. The main bugger is the ignition switch which needs replacing. I cannot for the life of me work out how to get it off though. Is it simply a case of turning the outer ring count clockwise? Or prising it off?
Anyone?

thanks

[yeadon_m]

Yes, the ignition switch really is easy to get off. Its held on the clock case only by a plastic (or sometimes metal) ring on the top, around the switch itself. Turn anti-clockwise and the switch falls out downwards. Unplug the 4 pin block connector and two bullets in the headlamp and ease it out. It can be done with the clocks still mounted through you need fingers of a gynecologist!
If you are replacing the switch with a new one, I urge you to consider buying a genuine Suzuki one. They are a lot more expensive but two plus points: first, its conductor wires are right-sized. Quite a few cheapo ones have undersized wires (and probably contacts inside the switch) and can and do overheat in use. I fried one of these in a 750B after a ride with lights on which is how I noticed - not a good thing. Second, it will work with genuine Suzuki keys. It will come with two new keys, but because its genuine, its actually simple to recode it to work off the existing key. That matters more or less to different folks.
Your money, your call though. Plenty of people get on fine with a lower priced aftermarket switch, I'm just sharing my 2c.
Cheers, Mike