Suzuki 2 Strokes

Im nearing completion of my 750. One of the last several things I need to do is replace the spade terminals, paint and add sheathing to the wiring on the rectifier. Ironic find concerning my 550 today after ongoing charge issues which I initially thought was a new battery. I found the rectifier had a terminal on the back of it that burned very badly. I was in the mist of swapping the 750 rectifier to the 550 temporarily when I noticed the 550 rectifier had no flat ground clamp that attaches to the mounting bolt. Like the 750 rec has. I thought they were exactly the same ? The terminal that burnt, was the one the ground clamp is soldered to on the 750 rec. I know it did not fall off from the burn as the other end is attached by the bolt on the 750 rec. Weird. I mounted the 750 rectifier and I am still having the same charge issues. What I need to know is, does it matter what location you insert the 3 yellow wires in one connection to the other ? I assumed as long as the red wires mate it would not matter about the 3 yellow wires mating to the other 3 yellow wires being they are for the coils. Am I wrong about that ? I have yet to inspect the coils and regulator what should I look for ? I checked and cleaned all terminals inside the connectors on the harness plate only. Which all were very clean with no burns or corrosion. Im waiting on new alternator brushes. Which I haven't inspected. I started having issues, not too long after I installed a more recent head light bulb that is brighter. Please help. Wiring and I are not friends.

These are the people to get a combined Reg/Rectifier from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Part RR77 around £75 pounds
Cheers,
GT750Battleship.

Thank you, very much. I have considered that. The rectifier is not the culprit to my charging issue as I had the same problem when I installed the other. Im also wondering about the yellow wires to connector part as I removed them and forgot which, went where ? I will use the one good rectifier on one of the two bikes. When the time comes to buy another. I will most definitely follow up on your suggestion. Something else is wrong, though. But, regardless. I will need another rectifier. Therefore, thanks a lot.

G'day again,these units plug straight into Suzuki harness,fitting may be a bit a little tricky,bolting it in place? But by all reports this is the way to go if you need one ?

Regards,
GT750Battleship.

GT750Battleship wrote:G'day again,these units plug straight into Suzuki harness,fitting may be a bit a little tricky,bolting it in place? But by all reports this is the way to go if you need one ?

Regards,
GT750Battleship.

I agree. I am going that route. But, I need to pin point my problem. Or I'll burn that one up too. At the cost of those units. I can't afford to do that. I'm also wondering if the higher watt bulb caused the rectifier to over heat ? Everything else was fine prior. Maybe, I should do away with the new bulb. I really don't need a brighter light as I never ride in the dark. But, I refuse to pay $70 for the older bulb. I've tried leaving the headlight off when I ride and the problem is still on going.

The three yellow wires are for the three output phases from the alternator, so therefore you have three yellow wires.
They can go into any other yellow wire across that socket as long as they are yellow to yellow.
You need to check battery voltage across the battery terminals with a meter to see what voltage figures the battery is receiving.
Perform the test, first at idle then at approx 3000 rpms held steady. Make sure the battery is fully charged before the test and also do the test with the headlight on high beam.
Also check the ground strap from the electrical panel to the frame for proper clean connection as well as any other ground straps on the harness.
Theres another one by the coils to the frame so check it as well.
I prefer to use an electronic regulator by Oregon motorcycle for about $55.00 its way better than the stock mechanical unit, and it bolts right in, all hardware included. The oem Suzuki rectifier units are quite durable and hardly break down so those I keep stock.
Do the test and report back with the figures. Also send a photo of that bulb you need as I may have some new ones in stock no where near the price you quoted.

Much appreciated. I will check those things. The spades and crimper you suggested worked perfectly. It's been a difficult thing to decipher up to this point. The battery I have tested several times and is fine. But, I haven't checked it on the bike and running. I put the battery on charge 4 to 5 times. It holds a full charge and easily starts the bike, but just a 1/4 of a mile down the road each time the battery gets drained and the bike runs on less than 3 cylinders. Making it impossible to keep running or to start for that matter. If it were the battery, I don't think it would cause the rectifier terminal to burn as bad as it did. It melted completely off. Tomorrow, Im also going to swap regulators and see what that does. I checked the ground attached to the air scoop. But, not the connector plate as all terminals are very clean. But, I'll check that one too. Can bad brushes cause this also ?

Check the alternator rotor & stator resistances.

Specs are on page 15 of http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/suzidata1.htm
The GT550 has either a Nippon Denso or Kokusan alternator. You can tell them apart from the layout of the brushes.
Kokusan rotor resistance: 2 - 5 ohms
Nippon Denso rotor resistance: 10 - 20 ohms
Stator resistance between all pairs of yellow wires: nearly zero
Also check for grounds: should get no reading

jabcb wrote:Check the alternator rotor & stator resistances.

Specs are on page 15 of http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/suzidata1.htm
The GT550 has either a Nippon Denso or Kokusan alternator. You can tell them apart from the layout of the brushes.
Kokusan rotor resistance: 2 - 5 ohms
Nippon Denso rotor resistance: 10 - 20 ohms
Stator resistance between all pairs of yellow wires: nearly zero
Also check for grounds: should get no reading

When I do this. Should I simply turn the ignition on without starting it ?

Sounds like a dead short to me. Might want to try:
Fully charge the battery and hook everything back up.
Turn on the ignition (no start and no lights).
Go a mile down the road in your mind.
Check battery to see if is already draining.

Believe it or not, all these symptoms can be caused by the terribly flimsy glass fuse holder. Do yourself and the bike a favor. Go to the nearest Ace hardware store. They have a small automotive section. There you will find a blade type fuse holder for around $4.00 Cut the wires from the oem fuse holder and wire the new one in it's place.

I've heard this before Chris and most of the time the old oem fuse holder is just a poor abused victim. By this I mean the brass clips are badly corroded which causes it to literally burn up from high resistance.
I've never had a problem with them so far, since buying a new one and adding some dielectric grease to the brass clips keeps it humming along nicely.
However its more a case of getting a new clean item regardless of design, that actually solves the problem.
I do have an alternative fuse case to go with my harness upgrades which is rather overkill, but its nice to look at.

No. Recommend disconnecting the battery first.

Wiring diagram is here: download/file.php?id=824

Alternator wiring goes to a 6-pin connector thats under the left side cover.
Disconnect the connector.

The 3 yellow wires go to the stator.
Check resistance for each pair of yellow wires. Should get about the same reading of nearly zero.
Check resistance between each yellow wire & ground. Should get open circuit.

The green wire goes to the rotor. The B/W wire is the alternator ground.
Check resistance between these two wires.

Remove alternator cover. Determine which alternator you have.
If your alternator looks like this then its a Nippon Denso:
http://www.powersportspro.com/pages/Oem ... 6021160021

Remove alternator brush assembly or insulate rotor slip rings from brushes.
Measure resistance between the two rotor slip rings (surface the brushes ride on).
Correct value depends on which alternator you have.

Measure resistance between slip ring & ground. Should get open circuit.

If its drawing far more amps than it should somewhere, maybe you can find that out by placing an ammeter in series with the battery to fuse line and turning on just ignition. I can't recall the amps you should see, but if its draining so fast its going to be an unfeasibly high value that you see, that, or the battery isn't in good shape as you currently think ?
If you do see a high current with ignition only, you could try unplugging everything and putting things back one by one to find the high drain item / circuit? what do I know, its a suggestion only.
Mike

Well I didn't have much time to sort through things. But, I did take the stator cover off. It is a Nippon Denso. The brushes appear to be in great condition. There is plenty of width left to them. No burns, good contact. They look brand new. I did notice that the copper coil inside the cover for the alternator is fairly tarnished like copper wiring would be after some time. I don't know if that means anything, but I was wondering if I should take the housing cover off and spray that coil with electric cleaner ? The first thing I'm gonna look at perhaps tomorrow is the harness plate ground wire. It may perhaps need cleaned as I noticed a fair amount of 2 stoke oil that was on a few wires. Mainly, the regulator wires. That oil was probably lying on the top of the tank when I slightly over filled and wind tossed it onto the wiring. It was a pretty small amount. Even so, I can't imagine a little oil causing a bad electrical contact ? Coyote, do you have a picture of what you had done concerning the spade fuse ? All of my wiring and terminals are very clean.